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Petcock rebuild: 82 GS1100GL

  • Thread starter Thread starter lordcannon88
  • Start date Start date
L

lordcannon88

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anyone reccommend any specific petcock rebuild kits? my carbs keep overflowing and I got gas in crankcase and blah blah im sure you all have heard it before. Im also planning on putting a manual fuel shut off valve between the petcock and carbs just as a procautionary measure. my petcock gaskets and diaphrame are screwed though.
 
fuel tap kits usually miss a rather important spring that pushes the diphragm shut, so an all new tap is the best way to go

btw, no need for an extra valve if the tap is functional
 
I have rebuilt them, but I recomend buying a new one. Check with Z1enterprises.com you can get a generic replacement for around $50 the kits are $30
 
well the general consensus is a new petcock. ill get right on that. thanks all.
 
well i have already ordered the valve and i figure its just a precaution for me at this point. I was about 200 mi from my house when i noticed the carb overflowing and overfull oil. i figure if i just take a sec and shut off the manual valve then im never gonna drain half my tank into the crankcase again. lol
 
lordcannon88 said:
well i have already ordered the valve and i figure its just a precaution for me at this point. I was about 200 mi from my house when i noticed the carb overflowing and overfull oil. i figure if i just take a sec and shut off the manual valve then im never gonna drain half my tank into the crankcase again. lol
Click to expand...

Flush and fill, gets the gook out.

I went OEM and just replaced mine early as pm.

Even if your pet cock is bad, your needles and seats should stop gas from flowing over into the crankcase.

OEM is the only way to go with needles and seats, I won't begin to tell you the nightmare I chased with inferior parts only to spend more money to buy OEM, synch, and ride the rest of the summer. OEM is the only way to go... umm did I fail to mention that OEM is the only way to go with needles and seats?
 
no im not sure if i got it...lol...aftermarket carb parts only right?
 
lordcannon88 said:
no im not sure if i got it...lol...aftermarket carb parts only right?
Click to expand...

If your into S&M then aftermarket carb needles and seats are the way to go. Or you could just let the bambo grow through your body as it is less painful then chasing crappy parts.

I went to OEM and man, tuning was a breeze. Bike could sit for three weeks in the fall at 40 degree weather and it fires right up; no blowing into the tubes.


A Robert Barr o-ring kit is the way to go, helps with cold starts and fast warm ups.
 
I rebuilt both of my GS petcocks with no trouble and no parts (one is on my GS and the other on my Concours). So long as the diaphragm isn't damaged...

Neither petcock has given me any trouble since then - all I did was disassemble, clean, and then reassemble. No such luck with the original Connie petcock, which leaked.

I was amazed that the GS one fit the Connie as well as it does!
 
So Shafty, you failed to mention where one gets these OEM needles and seats. Please elucidate.:confused:
 
On an 82 you have the CV/BS type carbs, It is common for fuel to leak past the O ring on the float needle seat--part of the O ring kit. Probably just needs good cleaning
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
On an 82 you have the CV/BS type carbs, It is common for fuel to leak past the O ring on the float needle seat--part of the O ring kit. Probably just needs good cleaning
Click to expand...

i figure if the carbs are as screwed as the rest of the bike is....argh. ive had it 6 weeks and each week something else has screwed up. so far ive had a buncha mystery oil leaks, starter motor failure, throttle cable broke....fuel overflow problems...blah. im waiting on electrical problems next. is there any past links on the float seat repair/cleaning? i figure i may as well admit that the bike is about to go into winter mode and ill rework the carbs and such. also are there any links to the 82GL factory service manual floating around the web in pdf form?
 
doctorwu said:
So Shafty, you failed to mention where one gets these OEM needles and seats. Please elucidate.:confused:
Click to expand...


http://www.prosourcemotorsports.com/

I go through these cats because they are local. You pay a lot more for quality components, but seeing that I have had the opportunity to compare products side by side: there simply is no comparison.

You could probably find someone cheaper or someone closer by you: I will leave that up to you.
 
lordcannon88 said:
i figure if the carbs are as screwed as the rest of the bike is....argh. ive had it 6 weeks and each week something else has screwed up. so far ive had a buncha mystery oil leaks, starter motor failure, throttle cable broke....fuel overflow problems...blah. im waiting on electrical problems next. is there any past links on the float seat repair/cleaning? i figure i may as well admit that the bike is about to go into winter mode and ill rework the carbs and such. also are there any links to the 82GL factory service manual floating around the web in pdf form?
Click to expand...

I used the carb link below:

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

You'll need a can of Berryman's dip to be able to dip your carbs. Great stuff.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=132632&highlight=carb+o-rings

Contact Robert Barr at the bottom of the link supplied above: he will hook you up with the proper o-rings for your individual application...it is very important to replace all of them, even the ones behind the intake boots. I bought two kits from him and have gone through two sets of CV carbs so far.

What did I learn: you can not synch a rack of carbs to one bike and expect it to work on another: each is different. This was on two low mileage GS1100GLZ. Each bike must be synch'd individually.
 
82Shafty said:
What did I learn: you can not synch a rack of carbs to one bike and expect it to work on another: each is different. This was on two low mileage GS1100GLZ. Each bike must be synch'd individually.
Click to expand...


What did I learn:
Set your carb floats. Mine were waay off.

Be very,very careful when removing the float pins. Try to get ahold of the end and pull and twist them out gently. A pair of small needle nose pliers works well. You may have to tap on the opposing end, but do it with great care and soft touch, the posts that the pins are in tend to break easily.

And you may want to invest in an impact driver, if you don't have or can get one. :)
 
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