1
1100E
Guest
I've always loved this exact year and color scheme, never owned or rode one. Great find!!
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G
Guest
Guest
Yeah, I'd like to find a nice one. I'll keep looking.
G
Guest
Guest
This one doesn't have the second gear issues.... at least not that I know of. I looked for awhile before I felt comfortable buying this one for the price I paid. There's alot of them out there that are way overpriced for what they are.
I agree about the Magna.... ugly in my eyes. The V4 Forum members have other ideas, the Magna is by far the most popular bike over there. The good thing is, not everyone has the same tastes....
G
Guest
Guest
Me too, I held out until I found one this color.
I had an 84' in maroon/blk. color combo. It had a ton of torque, very fast and smooth, and I liked the V4 sound of it but never felt good in the corners like my GS1100E. I also like the blue/blk. colors. I think before long they will do like the CBX and become highly collectable but we'll see.
Pat
Pat
G
Guest
Guest
Not sure about the collect-ability.... they are the "redheaded stepchild" on all the V4 forums, with the poster child being the Magna.
I agree with you, I'm not comfortable cornering with the V65, it definitely doesn't handle like any of my GS's. That doesn't mean I hate it, just not the same....
I agree with you, I'm not comfortable cornering with the V65, it definitely doesn't handle like any of my GS's. That doesn't mean I hate it, just not the same....
E
Ecklund
Guest
The Sabre version may continue to increase in value but its tough to see how they will ever be in CBX range. Besides the second gear issue the V4s have also have a possible cam oiling issue.
While technically advanced and well executed bikes, they just don't have the looks to become very valuable.
I like them for what they are, great value for a fast rider. Yours sounds like its well past any inherent mechanical issues. Good price for a great riding bike.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks. Yeah, it's definitely not a CBX and I don't believe it's going to ever be all that collectible. I bought it for the curiosity factor, and I like fast motorcycles (within reason).
G
GRAND ROUGE
Guest
Beautiful machine, Suzuki_dog. I like everything about it. Back in the day there have been V 65's and Yamaha Ventures in the family.....lots of miles on em and no issues with the transmissions or oiling or cams. We just rode em and maintained em and enjoyed every mile doing so.
Looking at your Sabre has got me wanting to find one again.
Looking at your Sabre has got me wanting to find one again.
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G
Guest
Guest
That's how my quest started, saw one last fall and had to find out what it was. Then, spent a good portion of the winter looking for one.
S
spyug
Guest
How much and how difficult to fix second gear?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-tourin...re/1071398562?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Could be a good deal?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-tourin...re/1071398562?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Could be a good deal?
G
Guest
Guest
I don't have that problem with mine, but here is an excerpt from another forum discussing the issues:
Shifting Problems
The shifting of the transmission involves several mechanisms. The shift pedal, the adjustable linkage, the shifter shaft, the shifter ratchet mechanism, the shifter drum, the shifter forks, the transmission gears, several springs and the clutch.
Transmission is a continuous mesh type meaning that the gears are always meshed with their mating gear. The gears are mounted on two shafts, the main shaft that is connected to the engine by the clutch, and the counter shaft that is connected to the drive shaft through the out drive.
Watch JohHawaiis video to see how it works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i_fQA_gewQ&feature=youtu.be
Main shaft 1st, 2nd/3rd and 4th gears are coupled to the shaft with splines. 5th and 6th gears are free to rotate on the main shaft.
Counter shaft 5th and 6th gears are coupled to the shaft with splines. 1st, 2nd/3rd and 4th gears are free to rotate on the main shaft.
Shifting is accomplished by engaging the coupled gears to isolated gears by sliding the gears on the splines and engaging them with pins. This is done with the shift forks.
In neutral with the clutch engaged the main shaft is spinning at about engine rpm. When the clutch is disengaged the multiple plates still provide enough friction to keep the main shaft spinning. When the bike is shifted into 1st gear the main shaft must be immediately stopped since it is now engaged to the counter shaft, drive shaft and rear wheel. This instantaneous stopping of the main shaft causes the clunk, especially when the bike is cold. This seems to be much worse on the V65 than the V45 due to the larger clutch with more plates.
Basic Diagnosis.
The shifting problem can be isolated to either a linkage, clutch or transmission problem by putting the bike on the center stand and shift through the gears without pulling in the clutch lever. The rear wheel may need to be rotated to allow the gear dogs to align with its mating part. If the movement of the shift pedal, linkage and shifter shaft are smooth and free while doing this the problem is in the clutch.
Common problems are:
Difficulty shifting into first gear from neutral This can be caused by binding components and the clutch not releasing completely.
Binding can occur in the shift pedal bushing, the adjustable linkage and the shifter shaft . Make sure there is no dirt accumulation in the boss where the shaft enters the engine.
Shift pedal upgrade http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=57203.0
Linkage upgrade http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=14175.0
The clutch not releasing completely is caused by hydraulic problems, or sticking clutch plates.
Clutch bleeding http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=59868.0
Clutch plates not releasing. In an article in Rider magazine their tech guru says much of the stiff shifting is caused by grooves in the fingers on the clutch basket. The clutch plates get hung up in the grooves and don't separate. Remember the clutch lever only releases the pressure plate, doesn't separate the plates. His recommendation was to take the basket out and file the grooves out of the fingers. I have done that in the past and improved the shifting on my V65
Difficulty up shifting to any gear This can be caused by binding (see above), clutch not releasing (see above) or shift pedal hitting the alternator cover.
If the pedal is hitting the cover it can be carefully bent away from the engine, or washers can be added to the foot rest mounting bolts to space it away from the engine.
Stuck in one gear This can be caused by a failure of the return spring on the lever behind the clutch. The clutch cover and clutch must be removed to replace the spring. http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=54020.0
Pops out of second or fifth gear Bad news, this is caused by a rounding of the dogs on the transmission gears. Second gear rounding is caused by missed shifts from first to second under high rpm conditions (power shifting at redline). The fact that second gear only has 3 dogs versus 4 to six dogs for the rest of the gears does not help the problem. Fifth gear rounding I believe is caused due to a design problem that results in the inadequate engagement of the dogs. Interference between the mating fourth and fifth gears prevents adequate travel to engage the dogs.
This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged gears to correct.
Pops in and out of sixth gear at highway speeds. This is caused by a miss assembly of sixth gear and its spacers on the main shaft. This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged gears to correct.
Difficulty shifting. This can be caused the above, or damage to the shifter drum or the forks. This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged drum or forks to correct.
Shifting Problems
The shifting of the transmission involves several mechanisms. The shift pedal, the adjustable linkage, the shifter shaft, the shifter ratchet mechanism, the shifter drum, the shifter forks, the transmission gears, several springs and the clutch.
Transmission is a continuous mesh type meaning that the gears are always meshed with their mating gear. The gears are mounted on two shafts, the main shaft that is connected to the engine by the clutch, and the counter shaft that is connected to the drive shaft through the out drive.
Watch JohHawaiis video to see how it works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i_fQA_gewQ&feature=youtu.be
Main shaft 1st, 2nd/3rd and 4th gears are coupled to the shaft with splines. 5th and 6th gears are free to rotate on the main shaft.
Counter shaft 5th and 6th gears are coupled to the shaft with splines. 1st, 2nd/3rd and 4th gears are free to rotate on the main shaft.
Shifting is accomplished by engaging the coupled gears to isolated gears by sliding the gears on the splines and engaging them with pins. This is done with the shift forks.
In neutral with the clutch engaged the main shaft is spinning at about engine rpm. When the clutch is disengaged the multiple plates still provide enough friction to keep the main shaft spinning. When the bike is shifted into 1st gear the main shaft must be immediately stopped since it is now engaged to the counter shaft, drive shaft and rear wheel. This instantaneous stopping of the main shaft causes the clunk, especially when the bike is cold. This seems to be much worse on the V65 than the V45 due to the larger clutch with more plates.
Basic Diagnosis.
The shifting problem can be isolated to either a linkage, clutch or transmission problem by putting the bike on the center stand and shift through the gears without pulling in the clutch lever. The rear wheel may need to be rotated to allow the gear dogs to align with its mating part. If the movement of the shift pedal, linkage and shifter shaft are smooth and free while doing this the problem is in the clutch.
Common problems are:
Difficulty shifting into first gear from neutral This can be caused by binding components and the clutch not releasing completely.
Binding can occur in the shift pedal bushing, the adjustable linkage and the shifter shaft . Make sure there is no dirt accumulation in the boss where the shaft enters the engine.
Shift pedal upgrade http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=57203.0
Linkage upgrade http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=14175.0
The clutch not releasing completely is caused by hydraulic problems, or sticking clutch plates.
Clutch bleeding http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=59868.0
Clutch plates not releasing. In an article in Rider magazine their tech guru says much of the stiff shifting is caused by grooves in the fingers on the clutch basket. The clutch plates get hung up in the grooves and don't separate. Remember the clutch lever only releases the pressure plate, doesn't separate the plates. His recommendation was to take the basket out and file the grooves out of the fingers. I have done that in the past and improved the shifting on my V65
Difficulty up shifting to any gear This can be caused by binding (see above), clutch not releasing (see above) or shift pedal hitting the alternator cover.
If the pedal is hitting the cover it can be carefully bent away from the engine, or washers can be added to the foot rest mounting bolts to space it away from the engine.
Stuck in one gear This can be caused by a failure of the return spring on the lever behind the clutch. The clutch cover and clutch must be removed to replace the spring. http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=54020.0
Pops out of second or fifth gear Bad news, this is caused by a rounding of the dogs on the transmission gears. Second gear rounding is caused by missed shifts from first to second under high rpm conditions (power shifting at redline). The fact that second gear only has 3 dogs versus 4 to six dogs for the rest of the gears does not help the problem. Fifth gear rounding I believe is caused due to a design problem that results in the inadequate engagement of the dogs. Interference between the mating fourth and fifth gears prevents adequate travel to engage the dogs.
This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged gears to correct.
Pops in and out of sixth gear at highway speeds. This is caused by a miss assembly of sixth gear and its spacers on the main shaft. This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged gears to correct.
Difficulty shifting. This can be caused the above, or damage to the shifter drum or the forks. This problem requires removing the engine, splitting the cases and replacement of the damaged drum or forks to correct.