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Pita

wymple

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I shimmed the valves on my 850. That compressing wrench you are suppose to use can go straight to the trash. What a stupid pain in the ass system! I was cussing up a storm.:mad: I used the zip tie method after fighting thru 2 valves, and that is as easy as it gets. I was very impressed at how fast it went. I got 5 of the valves to .006, 1 valve is at .0055 and 2 are at .0065. I like it, all in good spec. When I started, all but one valve was clear down around .002, with one at .003. And I am getting ready for a road trip, 900 miles round. Glad I got to the adjustment first. Kudos galore to the guy who dreamed that zip tie method up. :D:clap::D:clap:
 
I shimmed the valves on my 850. That compressing wrench you are suppose to use can go straight to the trash. What a stupid pain in the ass system! I was cussing up a storm.:mad: I used the zip tie method after fighting thru 2 valves, and that is as easy as it gets. I was very impressed at how fast it went. I got 5 of the valves to .006, 1 valve is at .0055 and 2 are at .0065. I like it, all in good spec. When I started, all but one valve was clear down around .002, with one at .003. And I am getting ready for a road trip, 900 miles round. Glad I got to the adjustment first. Kudos galore to the guy who dreamed that zip tie method up. :D:clap::D:clap:

Dang, someone here on the forum recently did a nice write up on valve adjustments for the shim motor, nice pics and everything. I can't recall his handle.
 
I seriously doubt that any tool could be as easy as that darn zip tie was. Quite literally a minute to get a shim out, no hassle.
 
One secret you have to understand is to apply a bit of sideways pressure to keep the tool on the bucket edge as you're compressing the bucket.

Another secret is that some shim tools come with a bit of casting flash on the rib that contacts the shim bucket. It takes a minute or two to clean up with a file -- just be very careful to keep the profile square.

With the proper tool and technique, it takes about 2 seconds to compress a GS shim bucket.
 
I agree with the tool. I've only checked valves once and the tool is quick and easy. Admittedly the first couple of valves required some learning but, as noted above, you quicly develop the feel for the tool and it becomes very quick and easy.


Cheers!
K
 
".... got 5 of the valves to .006, 1 valve is at .0055 and 2 are at .0065. I like it, all in good spec. When I started, all but one valve was clear down around .002, with one at .003. "

Strange, I do my clearances to .0015 to .004 INCH
 
".... got 5 of the valves to .006, 1 valve is at .0055 and 2 are at .0065. I like it, all in good spec. When I started, all but one valve was clear down around .002, with one at .003. "

Strange, I do my clearances to .0015 to .004 INCH
I was thinking the same thing. :-k

Hopefully he just stuttered on the zero key and was really thinking METRIC (he never did specify the units).
Take out a zero from each reading, call them millimeters and it would all be good.
icon_thumbsup.gif


How about it, wymple, were you measuring in INCHES or MILLIMETERS???
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
I measured in inches!! :mad:

So that means I'm out too far and have to go in again! I was stuck with Kawasaki in my head, they actually run 3-7 thousandths. I don't have any tapping at all, so it may not hurt anything, and I never see 6k on the tach, but dammit. How loose is enough to cause damage? Too tight I understand but 5 or 6 thousandths isn't hammering anything.
 
I measured in inches!! :mad:

So that means I'm out too far and have to go in again! I was stuck with Kawasaki in my head, they actually run 3-7 thousandths. I don't have any tapping at all, so it may not hurt anything, and I never see 6k on the tach, but dammit. How loose is enough to cause damage? Too tight I understand but 5 or 6 thousandths isn't hammering anything.

Throw away your feelers that have are both SAE and metric and just buy and use a metric set
 
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