pjKUN's 1983 GS1100e

[pjKUN]

Hello all, just wanted to formally introduce myself and my new project. I'm PJ, a former Expert Certified Toyota Tech but now I work in IT as a field service engineer. I live in the Chicago suburbs, so if you see me on the road please say hello! I've built a few cars for autocross and a few for the street (Subarus, Hondas, and Toyotas) but I've never really messed with motorcycles. I've had my M license for 5 years, but I never found the right bike to purchase and start on. I test rode a few bikes before I picked up the 1983 GS1100e you see here including a GS550, SV650, CB750, and some modern super sports, but I always gravitated to the GS family of bikes. I wanted to get a junker to learn on (tear apart the carbs, restore to weekend warrior status) and I came across this GS1100e on Craigslist. I actually saw it posted in the "Craigslist Funnies" forum after I purchased it, which I found hilarious.

Very comfortable and fast bike.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/mcy/5026794924.html

83 suzuki gs1100 - $1300 (lake villa) < >

I have for sale a running 83 gs1100. Very comfortable and fast bike. Has new Vanes&hanes exhaust 4 into 1 with romovable baffle. Handle bars are adjustible. Has newer grips and rim/tire swapnin the frony
Have stock parts still also including rear fairing and seat. Tail light and side fairings. show contact info fastes way to reach me is by text. Thank you.

I brought my buddy with me who has more experience with these bikes and we both rode this bike. It was beat up -- frame cut and re-welded, wiring was a mess, lots of plasti-dipped parts, etc., but boy did it pull HARD. It shifted smoothly through every gear and it just felt great. I was weary about picking up a halfway built project (we all know how that turns out) but I was able to negotiate the price down and for just a couple hundred bucks, I took this bike home.

Here's my buddy after he took it for a pretty long test ride. He convinced me that this would be a great project to start on.

Here's my wife admiring it, but she know's that I'll be spending many hours in my garage getting it to where I want the bike to be at.

The bike has a bandit front end (PO was going to do the rear Bandit 1200 swingarm mod), V&H 4:1, and allegedly had the carbs tuned but I don't think it is jetted properly because it appears to run lean. I know many of you are purists (myself included), but for the price I got this for I've decided to customize it to how I see fit. I'm not going to try to restore it to stock, I'll save that for my next build after I learn from this one, but I just want to get it to a presentable status that I can ride on the weekends.

Here's the rear frame section. You can see that it was butchered and cut, so I'm going to be installing a seat loop once my new seat arrives.

2 weeks in, I've started tearing into it to fix the wiring harness (simplifying it) and getting it prepped for the SSPB mod, new R/R, and the coil relay mod. I've removed the plastidip that was all over the tank and I'm about to order all the stuff I need to rebuild my carbs and make sure they are jetted properly.

Phase 1:
-Rebuild Carbs
-Valve Adjustment
-Repair Wiring Harness
-Upgrade electronics
-Install Seat
-New Rubber
-RIDE THE DARN THING

Phase 2:
-De-tab the frame
-Paint Frame and Tank
-Relocate/hide electronics
-Simple Gauges
-RIDE THE DARN THING EVEN MORE

Thanks for taking the time to read and follow this (if you actually did read it). I bought this bike so I could bring it back to life, and to enjoy the ride. I want to grow as a technician during this build, so I'm open to feedback positive or negative. I'd like to thank you all for all the information you guys have poured into this site, and I look forward to finishing this old girl. I'll leave you with a candid picture my brother in law took of me when I was explaining the big plans I had for this bike.

 

[posplayr]

Black motor running for $200 is a steal. You have at least $700 in parts. 140 mph Speedo, Headlamp, and exhaust are all high ticket items and the motor is second only to the 1150 both with the welded crank.

The 83GS1100ED is my fav, so I don't know exactly what you have planned but at least you got rid of that hideous seat.


Edit, looking at the gauges that was an ESD:sorrow:

You pretty much need a Dynojet kit (3133); good thing it already looks to have decent pods.

http://www.amazon.com/Dynojet-Research-Jet-Kit-Stage/dp/B000WJJN5W

What is the SSPD mod?

R/R should be SH-775 unless you spring for the Compufire.

You need to get a radial on the back to match that front tire. I assume it is 120/70-17.

A 4.5x17" is easier to fit on the rear but a 5.5x17" will also fit in that stock swinger just tight.

 

[jbird7262]

Looks like a great start for a fun project, should be an ass kicker

 

[pjKUN]

The 83GS1100ED is my fav, so I don't know exactly what you have planned but at least you got rid of that hideous seat.


Edit, looking at the gauges that was an ESD:sorrow:

Man, I totally feel your pain in knowing that. My dream is to rebuild one to era-correct specs, but I guess I'll have to save that for my next real build. This one is gonna be my learning bike.

What is the SSPD mod?

Oops! I meant SSPB, not 'D'. I work in IT so I'm used to saying 'Power Distribution Box' so I added the extra 'D'.

But thank you SO MUCH, posplayer, for all the information. I've been researching the jet kits and you cleared up the confusion for me. As for the 5.5x17" wheel, which models came plug and play? Every time I researched this, I always came to the conclusion that I'd need to spring for the Bandit 1200 rear end. If I could find a wheel that fits in the stock swingarm, what else should I expect to do? I've seen someone fit a 5.5x17 GSXR wheel but had a 520 chain conversion and 5/8" offset front sprocket also installed... any insight on this would be great because that was one of things I really wanted to do.

Thanks again for all your help and insight. Much appreciated.

Looks like a great start for a fun project, should be an ass kicker

Thank you sir! I will update this thread as much as I can.

 

[Fjbj40]

The 5.5 Bandit wheel fits in the stock 1100 swingarm, also use the 1100 bearings, Cush drive and internal Cush drive spacer along with 1100 axle. You will require new spacers to properly center the rear wheel and the offset front sprocket. I had to machine a bit, think .060, off the rear sprocket carrier to move the sprocket in and shorten the attach bolts (bolts for swingarm clearance) to ensure alignment and frame clearance. You need to also clean up the welds where the chain rides next to the frame. I ended up with 3mm chain to frame clearance.

I run a 170 rear tire which provides clearance.

 

[steve murdoch]

Only 2 hammers? Rookie!
Welcome to the site, pj.

 

[pjKUN]

Only 2 hammers? Rookie!
Welcome to the site, pj.

Ha! I haven't even put 75% of my tools out on the peg board, they're all in a roller tray. I sold my Matco box as soon as I left the automotive world, but I kept all my tools. Thanks for the welcome!

Fjbj40 - I'll look into this. Thanks for the info!

 

[rapidray]

Welcome pj!! Just so you know, your bike has an ES gauge set on it. This means chances are your bike was originally an ES model. If so, you will have an electronic tach. Look at the valve cover, in the front, just right of center. If there is no tach cable you have an ES. GREAT score!! Call me at 714--356-784five if you ever have questions or need help. I build & race these & will be glad to help.
Ray.

 

[pjKUN]

Welcome pj!! Just so you know, your bike has an ES gauge set on it. This means chances are your bike was originally an ES model. If so, you will have an electronic tach. Look at the valve cover, in the front, just right of center. If there is no tach cable you have an ES. GREAT score!! Call me at 714--356-784five if you ever have questions or need help. I build & race these & will be glad to help.
Ray.

Hey Ray! Pleasure to e-meet you. Thanks for the info, the tach does not have a cable unlike the speedo. I'm about to tear the carbs apart and make sure it is jetted properly, and I'm waiting for the Dynojet kit to arrive. Once carbs are done, I'm going to finish my wiring/electronics. I am looking to get a bigger rear wheel/tire combo, but am looking for the easiest and most simple solutions. I'll take you up on that offer and I'll be reaching out to you when I have issues/problems that I can't figure out. I really appreciate the welcome I've received here so far.

 

[SVSooke]

Yes there are purists here that will not like anything factory fresh looking.Most of us live in the real world.Your bike has already been chopped up and getting it back would really cost more than it's worth.I'm sure you will make it way better than the hack artist you bought it off.Is a pity it's an ES,they're beyond cool stock in my books but I may have a bias

 

[posplayr]

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Oops! I meant SSPB, not 'D'. I work in IT so I'm used to saying 'Power Distribution Box' so I added the extra 'D'.

But thank you SO MUCH, posplayer, for all the information. I've been researching the jet kits and you cleared up the confusion for me. As for the 5.5x17" wheel, which models came plug and play? Every time I researched this, I always came to the conclusion that I'd need to spring for the Bandit 1200 rear end. If I could find a wheel that fits in the stock swingarm, what else should I expect to do? I've seen someone fit a 5.5x17 GSXR wheel but had a 520 chain conversion and 5/8" offset front sprocket also installed... any insight on this would be great because that was one of things I really wanted to do.

Thanks again for all your help and insight. Much appreciated.

On the jet kit, I would have suggested pulling your carbs apart first, they might already been there. Pods and Pipe go with the jet kit unless someone tried to reinvent the wheel.

Fjbj40 did a pretty good summary. A 520 gives the most clearance and even then you need to find the thinnest. Katman Rob Wilton has info on that at his website. You might need to search a little. Fjbj40 mentioned 3.0mm clearance with his 170 on a 5.5"x17" wide wheel. I have 5mm both sides with a 170 and 4.5"x18" wheel and 530 chain. The 5.5" is tight. Ground clearance is the other major consideration, but since you have Bandit forks (e.g. longer) that is the biggest part of it. When and if you swap out the rear shocks, there are shock extensions (about 1" help handling) on ebay which will help further so the 17" wheels should be no problem.

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/katana_suspension.html

I put this together as far as GSXR wheels some time back. If that is a Bandit wheel on the front then you probably would want to go that way.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...9-GSXR-Wheel-Selections&highlight=GSXR+wheels

 

[Fjbj40]

The 3mm I was talking about was the chain clearance to the frame. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that.

You can also play with the rear sprocket. I have a JT on mine and I found flipping it around picked up about 1.5-2mm of clearance. I then machined some material off my front spacer to realign things.

what I am trying to get at is there are several ways to get everything lined up and get clearances as required. You may be thinking 1.5mm? But when you put the 5.5" back there things get tight. It is doable, just take your time, fit, measure, remove, machine, reinstall, measure etc etc.......

it it is time consuming but when it is finished it looks great and really brings these bikes up to date, rock on!

As Posplayr said, Katman has lots of great info on his site and he is very helpful over email also. I bought my front sprocket from him. http://www.suzuki-katana.com

 

[Mista M]

Welcome , look forward to see what you do.
Suzuki sv650 rear wheel may be a solution, 4.5 x 17.

 

[pjKUN]

posplayr - I'm reading into all the links you've sent. I saw that writeup you did about the GSXR wheels and i'm taking A LOT of notes. The best thing about this site and all of you is that its got ARCHIVES of valuable information that I can read and re-read before I come up with the solution for my particular build. I know it'll take a lot of measuring, machining and playing around, but that's how we learn and grow as techs, right? As for the jet kit, I'm holding off on it until I crack open the carbs. Good advice about that.. I'm using the guide on BassCliff's site for when I tear into them this weekend. Hopefully it'll be jetted and all I'll have to do is sync them. I'm hoping the valves are within spec as well so I don't have to do too much in that area.

As for the rear wheel, for the 1st phase of my build, I may just get some new rubber until I figure out what to do with the wheel situation. When winter comes, I'll be able to disassemble everything to test fit and mess with it. I've got my first child on the way (due in Jan) so I kind of just want to get this on the road by late July to enjoy it and then I can mess with the rear wheel after baby is born. What's the biggest tire size that I could run on the stock 1100 rear wheel? Would it be advisable to do what I suggested? Thanks yall!

 

[posplayr]

Rear wheel is typically a 90/130. You can lower the profile to 80/130 perhaps.

The other option is to get a 1150 rear wheel; they come in 3.0 and 3.5" and would bolt right on with either 140 of 150 I suspect. The are in high demand because of the simplicity but not impossible to find.

On the carbs, if they are off you just need to pull off one of the boles and look at the mains to see what is there. If they are Dynojet 132/138 then you know you have a kit and maybe PO was not a complete dork.

 

[SVSooke]

Why are you hoping the valves are adjusted?At a guess you think that 1100 has shim adjust,it does not.Read this http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/16valve_adjustment.pdf on how to adjust a 16 valve .

 

[pjKUN]

Why are you hoping the valves are adjusted?At a guess you think that 1100 has shim adjust,it does not.Read this http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/16valve_adjustment.pdf on how to adjust a 16 valve .

I'm hoping they are in within spec so I don't need to adjust them lol. Also, thanks for the pdf, I printed it out and put it in my binder for reference.

Rear wheel is typically a 90/130. You can lower the profile to 80/130 perhaps.

The other option is to get a 1150 rear wheel; they come in 3.0 and 3.5" and would bolt right on with either 140 of 150 I suspect. The are in high demand because of the simplicity but not impossible to find.

On the carbs, if they are off you just need to pull off one of the boles and look at the mains to see what is there. If they are Dynojet 132/138 then you know you have a kit and maybe PO was not a complete dork.

Well, I guess the time to source a 1150 3.5" wheel begins! I'll document my progress on the carbs, going to start work on those this Saturday.

 

[Ecklund]

Nice garage. Just got one myself but will have to wait for a gig state side before I get to use it.

Will be fun to see what you come up with to mitigate what the PO did to the bike.

Welcome

 

[posplayr]

recent 4.5" wheel install

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-capability-and-set-ups&p=2200444#post2200444

 

[pjKUN]

recent 4.5" wheel install

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-capability-and-set-ups&p=2200444#post2200444

Nice, thanks!

I test fit my seat today. I like the look of it. I've figured out how to fit some plastic to cover and streamline that awkward space between the tank and seat. Also, I'm still figuring out how I'm going to mount my new electronics tray under the seat. Once that's solved and all electrical is hooked up, I'll start on the carbs and valve adjustment (inspection). Then off it goes for welding and new tires. It's coming along... slowly.