Planning to replace sprokets and chain, questions before I do (530? gearing change?)

[donimo]

Hello all, I have read through all I could find on here and was planning on getting a new chain (present one is near the end of adjustability), and figured might as well do the sprokets too as they are most likely original.

So before I do I was wondering if I might as well do some changes.

530 chain, seems a lot of people do this change, seems that if you are swapping everything else out anyways it might be worth while? Same deal on a 400 as the other bikes?

Gearing change, this is where I need help, I ride 99.9% city, top speed I go is 50mph and I never go over 4th gear in normal riding. When I did the exhaust swap I seem to have lost a touch of bottom end snap, along with the fact I think it is geared a bit "highway" to start (what 80's vehicle wasn't?). Stock I appear to have a 16/45 setup (from the manual), which seems to equate to a 2.81 final drive ratio. JC whitney has a 15 tooth front, which is a 3.00 final, is that enough of a difference to bother with?

I have read all I found, but nothing really seems the same as my 400cc/55pmh top speed travelled situation. I don't want to be banging through gears like a mack truck, but some more off the line punch would be welcome.

thanks, and sorry for beating this dead horse yet again (although I am kind of beating the leg that is still twitching a bit).

also sorry for mis-spelling sprockets...

 

[Nessism]

Your bike already has a 530 chain I think, it's definetly not a 630. You could go to 520, which is cheaper, yet still plenty strong. Regarding the gearing, your plan is good; one fewer teeth on the front will make a noticable difference yet won't be so drastic as to cause any problems.

Good luck

 

[donimo]

oh, ok, I really know nothing about chains (obviously) I just assumed it was an "old vs new" thing and that is why everyone upgraded to the 530.


So can I still order the stock 110 size chain with the smaller front sprocket?

How do I tell for sure that's what I should order (530 chain?). (edit: googled it I will go measure)

 

[donimo]

The guy at my bike shop said "you should go bigger on the back instead, going smaller on the front makes the chain go around too small a circle and it wears faster"

any truth to this?

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Many bikes use a 15 so their is no problem

 

[donimo]

well I went to a stock 16 up front and a 50 out back, gives me a 3.13 overall, little more grunt down low, cool

so jc whitney, 63 bucks for all 3 parts, I know its not an o-ring but I put about 1500 miles a year on my bike so I am not sure wear is an issue, but price certainly is.

Seems the parts are ok from searching around, the sprockets are JT brand, chain is from Taiwan, Maktek I think it said? Has to be better than a 30 year old chain at the end of its stretch.

 

[salty_monk]

That's a cheap chain... better keep it clean & well lubed. I don't think strength is any issue with your bike.

I would say the only thing is
1. the hassle of replacement &
2. the fact that you'll blow through sprockets quicker (the worn chain will wear the sprockets quicker).

I guess most like the more "fit & forget" of the O ring. kept clean & with your mileage it's probably a non-issue though.

Dan

 

[donimo]

Yeah, 19 bucks is pretty cheap, problem is up here in Canuckistan it's either: be gouged by local dealer ($112 for an o-ring, 60 for a normal) or pay rediculous shipping charges along with tax and borkerage fees for any US company ($40+ shipping and $45 tax and brokerage fees min).

JC Whitney just charges $12 for ALL taxes and fees and eats the rest (why I don't know), and I needed a trailer hitch for my car anyways, so essentially free shipping.

Reading around the chain is pretty decent for what it is, not "junk", just a decent non-oring chain.

I figure if my stock chain was good for 27 years and 32,000km this one should last me a few years at least.

If I am proven wrong I won't cheap out next time and will only be out $20 and a bunch of ass pain.

 

[Road_Clam]

Keep in mind, gearing lower is all fine and well for adding "zip" to your bike, but every action has a reaction, and as you gear lower, you also raise cruise rpm's for the given gear(s). When you gear lower you also narrow the overall gear ratios, and you have to spend a lot more time shifting.

I do a lot of highway commuting, so I actually went from a 42T rear to a 40T on my 1100, loved it, as this lowered my 70 mph cruise rpm's and minimised the famous "GS bar buzz"

 

[koolaid_kid]

If you are going to run a $20 chain, you really need to keep an eye on your rear sprocket. It is a softer metal than the front, and if it starts to wear, you will need to replace it also. A new chain on a worn sprocket will wear much quicker than you might think.

Use the chain maintenance method I outlined in this thread, and follow it religiously:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=158015

Best of luck.