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Please critique these 83-86 cylinder head removal pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter JEEPRUSTY
  • Start date Start date
J

JEEPRUSTY

Guest
So I got this engine that had no compression on 2 and 3
normal compression on 1 and diminished compression on 2

I got me a replacement motor and it has 140 across the board so I am in the process of swapping.

I had to open the old one up and as they say on Mythbusters "Well there's your problem!"
 
I'm very surprised that bike ran for long enough to cause that damage on all those cylinders. It must have run like a dog for a good while.
 
hampshirehog said:
I'm very surprised that bike ran for long enough to cause that damage on all those cylinders. It must have run like a dog for a good while.
Click to expand...

Yeah it ran poorly but I really had no idea how bad until the compression faded quickly.

Two exhaust valves broken
One intake valve bent on cylinder 2

It looks like the sleeves are distorted or coming free from the block.
The cylinder walls have no scoring that I can see or feel.

My redneck use of gas to check for any outrageous leaks by the rings lasted longer that I was willing to wait.

The piston crowns look washed from gas. Can hydro-locking cause a valve to chip off like that?

I was regretting getting the parts bike as I was thinking it was a simple head gasket issue. The valves and headgasket alone would pay for a huge chunk of my parts bike.

Is the head gasket blown? I have photos of the top and botton and it looks like it died on the bottom.
 
Jeep

Another engine flogged to death (bulletproof!)


Can you use the IMG code to make your pictures come out larger?
 
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So none of you 80 plus people care to offer advice or guidance?
Thanks for the help...................
 
Did the bike have pods and/or a header? Lean mixture in addition to neglected valve adjustments equals burned/split valves.
 
It's not hydro locking damage, I see two broken valves and a severe oil fouled cylinder...
The valves don't look burnt.
What was going on when it failed?
 
Thanks guys............

I do know the carb boot o-rings had to be replaced. That fixed the idle fluctuations but perhaps it was the right measure far too late?

The bike was flogged hard. Could this have been form a valve float?

I also thought Suzuki gaskets were multi layer metal this one is a .5 - 1 mm solid sheet.


It ran really well last spring and I then had to get o-rings for the carbs because I dumped a tank of gas into the crank.

I have a spare and nothing to lose but I would like to at least practice some skills on this motor in anticipation of a time when no spare may readily exist.
 
Oh the oil fouling is gas actually
I did the CC leak test for a laugh.
 
I have not seen valves broken like this, but burnt ones usually have a Vee shape burned away from one edge, not at all like these.
Is there any corresponding damage in the pistons from valve contact?
Doesn't look like it but can't really see from the pics...
 
I can so mo impact marks on the pistons
I will look closer in the morning though.
 
What's the seats look like under those valves? If there are no impact marks on the pistons they have to be burnt but they look "chipped" to me.
I can top that one though :rolleyes:
 
please pop a broken valve and its neighbor out for pic...

The valve could simply be worn out, if you take them off is there a groove worn all around the valve face?
 
A popped out poppet

A popped out poppet

The less damaged valves show a smooth seat. The one under this valve would need to be re-cut for sure.

I measured the valve stem and it is right on spec throughout the length so its still good................

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That valve is burnt. It overheated then a chunk broke off.
 
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