Please dont do this...

[Oldman99]

Noticed I had a weird screw where I should have a bolt. I got her apart (stock airbox was a pain to get out)and found out it was a sheet metal screw that one might use to attach duct work or a dryer vent. About a 1/4 of an inch long. Removed that and finally got the rubber intake book off. (they used some sort of gasket goop)
Found that someone broke a tap off in the bolt hole and the tiny screw was a fast patch. Along with the over-sized bolt on the exhaust side. I'm just going to replace the head.
I'm looking for a replacement at the local shops, but also on ebay because this is my ride to and from work.
Anyone have a good place to get one overnighted?

 

[Oldman99]

The newest issue.

 

[Oldman99]

The very over-sized bolt I had to get after the other one vibrated out. I'm worried that theres not much aluminum left to hold the weight and stress of the exhaust system.

 

[Guest]

As a wise man once said...

 

[mvalenti]

helicoil it, I did, works like a charm!

 

[Jmanor]

That's just not cool. I thought dealing with snapped exhaust bolts on head was bad but that's worse. Hopefully find something to fix it fast.

 

[Griffin]

Since you're pulling the head anyway, a decent machine shop can drill out that JB Weld and re-tap the hole on the intake for not much money.

Have you pulled the exhaust yet and looked at what's left of the exhaust port hole?

 

[Cipher]

That intake is one of the nastiest previous owner bodges I have seen.

 

[mvalenti]

You have obviously not seen any of my masterpieces....

 

[Guest]

Was MacGuyver the previous owner?

 

[bobgroger]

Was MacGuyver the previous owner?

No, he did better work than that.

 

[Jmanor]

Since you're pulling the head anyway, a decent machine shop can drill out that JB Weld and re-tap the hole on the intake for not much money.

Have you pulled the exhaust yet and looked at what's left of the exhaust port hole?

I may have to have a shop drill out and re-tap 5 of the 8 due to broken studs. Not sure the cost if I find out will let you know so can get an idea.

 

[Griffin]

I may have to have a shop drill out and re-tap 5 of the 8 due to broken studs. Not sure the cost if I find out will let you know so can get an idea.

I have drilled out a couple broken exhaust studs myself using left hand drill bits. Drill a pilot hole in the end of the stud, then use a slightly larger LH drill bit to enlarge the hole and bite deep enough into the stud to back it out.

This followed several rounds of copious amounts of penetrating oil, torch heat, oil, heat again, etc....

 

[Oldman99]

Since you're pulling the head anyway, a decent machine shop can drill out that JB Weld and re-tap the hole on the intake for not much money.

Have you pulled the exhaust yet and looked at what's left of the exhaust port hole?

I had not really considered that, so I called the shop in town (the one I trust, as there are like 3) And they said the fastest they can work on the head (if I bring in just the head) would be Tuesday. I looked online and it would seem almost all of the heads people have up for sale, have broken bolts stuck in them. The ones that dont, are 2 to 3 times as much.

 

[Oldman99]

Update:

I removed the head.
Was unable to back the tap out backwards like you normally would. It was just the tip of one, so it had no threads.
I removed the aluminum from around the tap and cleaned it up. Then I drilled a little deeper and cut new threads.
Got an aluminum spacer, cut new threads into it. I ran a bolt into it and then screwed it into the new treads in the head.
All I need for the shop to do is weld my spacer to the head and I should be good to go.

 

[Oldman99]

I just cant win....
I got the head all back together and set the timing.
Then promptly broke a bolt off in the cam cap.

 

[Oldman99]

Drove down to the parts store today. Bought a new set of left hand drive drill bits and easy outs. My old set was missing or toasted. I also bought enough bolts to replace all of the cam cap bolts. I know that over torquing the bolts can snap the stock ones or even pull the treads out of the head. Will having a stronger grade of bolts be an issue later? Like will the bolts expand more from heat than stock and crack something?

 

[tatu]

Drove down to the parts store today. Bought a new set of left hand drive drill bits and easy outs. My old set was missing or toasted. I also bought enough bolts to replace all of the cam cap bolts. I know that over torquing the bolts can snap the stock ones or even pull the treads out of the head. Will having a stronger grade of bolts be an issue later? Like will the bolts expand more from heat than stock and crack something?

Cam caps? No the higher grade bolts in themselves will not make a difference, that said, the stock bolts are perfect for the job however, the correct torque of these bolts is vital.

7.23 lb-ft
1.0 kg-m

 

[Oldman99]

Cam caps? No the higher grade bolts in themselves will not make a difference, that said, the stock bolts are perfect for the job however, the correct torque of these bolts is vital.

7.23 lb-ft
1.0 kg-m

Thank you for the torque numbers. I've got the bike back together for the most part. Just cutting out all of the previous owners (way more than one) bad wiring. Lots of male to female connections and barrel connectors. I chopped out all of them and solder/ heat shrunk them. Got to the point tonight where the engine turned over under her own power. I also noticed the dash lights are much brighter. I might be able to see my neutral light on a sunny day. lol