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Please explain, PLATE, DRIVE (T:3) "PLATE, D" what to buy?

  • Thread starter Thread starter GeeYes!
  • Start date Start date
G

GeeYes!

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My first post - promise to update my 1982 GS1100G history soon. My clutch slips under hard acceleration (7500+ rpm, full throttle). I've read a ton of posts and understand about replacing springs, and possibly other parts. But I'm trying to understand what typically gets replaced - I assume its friction plates? On parts websites the terminology in my post Title is what gets used, but here, everyone talks about metal plates/friction plates. The price difference more than double... so what is first to wears out (under normal use) - the PLATE, DRIVE (T3) at 18.60 each USD or the the "PLATE, D" at 7.01 each USD? Which is a "metal plate" and which is the "friction plate"?

Thanks for any help!
 
D = drive
Those are the plates with the friction material on them. They typically last the life of the bike unless someone used crappy oil and ruined them.
New OEM springs is typically all that's needed to fix a slipping clutch. A new cable is a thing of beauty too so consider getting one of those while you are at it.
 
Nessi[COLOR=#FF0000 said:
[/COLOR]sm;2418292]D = drive
Those are the plates with the friction material on them. They typically last the life of the bike unless someone used crappy oil and ruined them.
New OEM springs is typically all that's needed to fix a slipping clutch. A new cable is a thing of beauty too so consider getting one of those while you are at it.
Click to expand...

Especially when your old breaks on you in the middle of no where. A spare is easy to carry with you. Springs fixed mine. You could always micrometer the existing plates and compare with factory wear limits. A new gasket will be in order.
cg
 
Check the steels for bluing and warpage also since you state it has been slipping. Its open already so be sure alls well before buttoning it up.
 
Thanks guys. Springs are on the way, gasket too. I haven't opened it up yet, but I'll be sure to check the plates, splines, basket, etc. Also waiting for all the air intake rebuild parts. The airbox looks good, added seals to the access panels. I rode this bike 1600 mi from Syracuse to Duluth, MN with stops to see friends and family. Fun but dicey on a used bike I bought pretty much sight unseen. I learned awhile ago to check for forum support before buying a classic bike - this is one of the best support groups I've seen! Much appreciated...
 
An update - Replaced the original springs with 6 OEM springs and problem solved. The original springs were just within the service limit (38.8) - mine measured at 39-39.5. The plates were well within service limits and I could see no wear on splines. Happily, the clutch seems in great shape, not much slop anywhere.

Thanks all for the help.
 
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