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Pods, 4-1, Jet kit: Should I do it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Skyboy8950
  • Start date Start date
S

Skyboy8950

Guest
82 850G

Ok, so, I need help figuring out if I want to drop $500 on doing this. This is what I have so far:

Pros:
  1. Need a new air filter anyway that costs $50
  2. Pipe #2 has a dent in it.
  3. All pipes are old and rusty.
  4. Potential for sweet sounds and increased performance
Cons:
  1. $500
  2. Jetting. I've been told, though, with a DynoJet stage 3 kit, it takes the guesswork out of it.
Please feel free to add to the list and let me know how your experiences with this setup are.

Also, as a side note, when going with pods, are the intake boots the only thing that holds the carbs up? Also, what do you do with the breather hose from the cam cover?
 
GS850%20006%20%28Large%29.jpg


Here is a picture of my dented pipe.
 
It'll be noisier, slightly easier to get the carbs off & you will get more power but not a huge chunk. You may lose some low down, I believe I did.
I've done the same mods on my G. I had a faulty ignition which led me to chase things with carbs that weren't there otherwise I would likely have left it with the 4:1 & left the stock airbox. For me 125 Mikuni mains & slightly shimmed needles seemed good with that setup & a K&N inbox filter. That saves you $60 in filters & $100 in a jet kit (K&N inbox is $40).

Check out APE filters too, they are cheaper than K&N's Pods. Cyclespot Arizona for the DJ Kit, cheapest by a long way, used to be cheap for the V&H 4:1 too.

Dan :)
 
I just bought a Vance&Hines 4-1 to replace my rusty, ugly heavy stock pipe. Looks awesome, sounds great, lighter and it turns heads. I also have a K&N oem replacement filter. I am just using mikuni jets as I cant justify $125 for jets unless I end up going to pods. The jet kit sounds nice but its pretty pricey for what you get. I am going to run it with the airbox lid off as V&H suggests, I think it will add a fair amount of flow.
 
The Jet kit is $100 from Cyclespot. You don't need it with just the pipe & K&N on the G though... (although some have added it with equal success) You might need it on your E with the airbox off, trial & error would be the only way to know for sure.....

Dan :)
 
I have a V&H 4-into-1 on mine as well as the K&N inbox air filter and had issues with the bike running lean when I first got it. Noticed the P.O. had drilled some 3/8" diameter holes in the airbox. Upon some suggestions of others here, I sealed them up and it's ran great since. Not sure if the jets are stock or not....suppose I should check someday.

Just saying....if mine are stock, I wouldn't run it with an open box.
 
salty_monk said:
The Jet kit is $100 from Cyclespot. You don't need it with just the pipe & K&N on the G though... (although some have added it with equal success) You might need it on your E with the airbox off, trial & error would be the only way to know for sure.....

Dan :)
Click to expand...

Dan, when you say K&N, do you mean pods?

I figure if I am going to do this, I want to take it all the way. $100 for jets is kinda steep, but I figure that is for taking the guesswork out of it. What I am really wondering is how well these three items work together and if it is as simple as it seams. I really hope it is, but that is never the case.
 
Skyboy8950 said:
Dan, when you say K&N, do you mean pods?

I figure if I am going to do this, I want to take it all the way. $100 for jets is kinda steep, but I figure that is for taking the guesswork out of it. What I am really wondering is how well these three items work together and if it is as simple as it seams. I really hope it is, but that is never the case.
Click to expand...
See my post in your other thread about Backfiring, before you make a decision as well...
 
First I ran with stock air box & inbox K&N. The G has side covers rather than a lid so airbox was still sealed.
I went up two stages on the mains & put the canadian needles (identical taper to California needles just adjustable) up one notch. I prob could have got away with a half.
I live at Sea level.

I then added pods & a jet kit. Biggest DJ main in the kit & 4th from top on the needles from memory.

Dan :)
 
Dan, thanks for the information.

How long did it take you to get your bike running the way you wanted it? Do you still have to tinker?
 
The K&N pods are more expensive than the DJ-kit. I think I spent nearly $40.00 each (after shipping). However, I love them. I use them on my 81' GS1100 and my 80' GS750.

Both bikes are stage 3 jetted (DJ-kit) with open 4-2-1 pipes. Both bikes run exceptional and start on first crank (almost always) even in temps. well below freezing.

Out of curiosity....did I see somewhere, sometime ago, that someone had simply used the stock (non-adjustable) needles in a rejetting project (CV-carbs)? Can that be right.....can you effectively raise the stock needles by shimming (adding washers) with more needle-washers?
 
Can that be right.....can you effectively raise the stock needles by shimming (adding washers) with more needle-washers?

I believe the answer would be yes, but the taper on dynojet needles is also different.
 
I have heard that too. I read a thread how people would buy washers from radio shack to do that.

On amazon.com, the pods are 100 for all 4. Sounds like a good deal to me.

Thanks for the good words.
 
One hundred bucks for all 4 sounds like a good deal. Don't forget to get filter oil! One can will last for years.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Can that be right.....can you effectively raise the stock needles by shimming (adding washers) with more needle-washers?

I believe the answer would be yes, but the taper on dynojet needles is also different.
Click to expand...
Yes...I just did it. Again. If you REMOVE the stock thick NYLON spacer from the needles, and use a couple of washers that equal about HALF the nylon spacers thickness, the way the needles are assembled in the slide, you effectively RAISE the needle up into the slide. This of course raises the taper in the needle jet, and reduces the amount of throttle needed to get to that taper when turning the throttle, thereby allowing more fuel flow, richening the needle circuit.

My bike is bone stock and I am using about HALF of the original nylon washer space to get the bike to run much better. I tried using only ONE washer before, much too rich. Last night whilst Steve was showing KParkFan the ins and outs of carb disassembly, I tinkered, and installed a second washer. Results in responce were astounding. It calmed the bike down from being "jumpy" when in the needles, but the power increase was still there. on my way home, i hit the 675 on ramp near Steve doing about 25, cos you have to make a decent turn to get on it right now with the construction. Before I hit the end of the ramp, I was turning 7.5K in 4th, with the speedo (85mph variety) pegged. I then shifted into 5th, and it just kept on pulling. Basicly, its a whole lotta much more better :)

EDIT: It just occurred to me why you were asking about this. YES you can shim the needles to gain richness in that circuit. Will it be enough for pods and a pipe? No, i feel quite certain in saying that you will need a DynoJet kit with adjustable needles for this.
 
V&H 4 into 1
Dynojet III + Freshly dipped/rebuilt carbs
K&N pods
Accel Coils

...new bike.
 
Very nice. I always thought you had to ditch the centerstand to put a 4-1 on.

If I get pods, are the intake boots the only thing that is going to hold the carbs/pods up?
 
Last edited:
Skyboy8950 said:
Very nice. I always thought you had to ditch the centerstand to put a 4-1 on.

If I get pods, are the intake boots the only thing that is going to hold the carbs/pods up?
Click to expand...

That and the cables. I have plans to fabricate a mount to the spine of the bike, but haven't done it
 
If you're looking for a VH 4:1, check out bikebandit and use the code MOTODAD.

I picked up a set two weeks ago and the code was still working, and got 'em for $257 delivered, and here in Maine is about as far from BB in SoCal shipping costs-wise as you can get domestically.
 
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