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power conservation - saving the stator

  • Thread starter Thread starter bwanna
  • Start date Start date
B

bwanna

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I have an 82 GS450 that I've been trying to make a bit more electrically efficient.

We all know the reputation for the stators and shunt-based regulators... in short, they can burnt out over time under normal conditions. So, I worked to save myself from a long walk home by doing a number of things.

1. I changed ALL of the incandescent to LED.
2. Ran a ground wire from the regulator directly to the battery. (Improves regulation consistency.)
3. Installed a shunt-based ammeter at the Regulator V+ output. (Since I ride 365 in the DC area i.e. heated clothing, this helps in monitoring the actually amperage.)
4. pulled all connections, cleaned and added electrolytic jell with reassembly
5. pulled all ground connections, cleaned with fine sandpaper and reconnected with small amount of E-jell (see above)
6. replaced Stock Headlight with HID.

With all this, she was able to run at about 3-4 amps with high beams on.

This allowed me to add 2 HID 55watts driving lights and full heated gear and still not go over 13 amps.

I also replaced the stock Stator with a 25A upgrade and added a 35A RR. You'll also notice that I added a 6-fuse, 4-relay upgrade.

The fuse and relay upgrade is taken from an 80's Jeep... with some physical modifications. The Jeep had modules within the big fuse bank (in the engine compartment.) I went to the local junk yard and found a module that had a 6-fuse/two-relay configuration and added (glued) another two relay module next to it. This did require some careful utility knife cutting, etc. After rewiring it from scratch, I ended up with the attaced wiring diagram. The relays are high amperage capable and take the load off of the stock switches. This is a good thing!

Will probably not have any electrical problems unless I add a fifth-wheel trailer.

My motto is "Do it right and you'll only do it once."

Here's the custom schematic for the bike.

Cheers and Safe riding.
 
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Have you got any picture of the unit with mounting?

Sounds good and for the reasons you did this , I did this....

See the All NEW Solid State Power Box


It is bike nite here in Tuscon, so I'll be back tomorrow.
 
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A couple of comments:

I don't see a fuse between the battery and the R/R. If one of the diodes in the R/R were to short you could have troubles,

I see you have two shunt current meters. One on Battery Current and the other on R/R current. Generally you don't want anything between the battery and the R/R. Any voltage drop will keep the battery from charging to the R/R's setpoint (typical 14.25-14.5V).

While I don't like putting anything between battery and R/R, if you moved the one shunt on the R/R to the current gong to the electrical system then you will have measured two values that help you deduce what the R/R current is without having at least he one shunt meter.

You ignition switch is also powered with unfused power. Which means the Orange coming back is not fused either. You need to put a fuse close to the battery as protection from any one of various shorts.

You have a lot of frame grounds. Just make sure that the power returns have an easy path back to the R/R(-). That is where all the current returns to when you are charging the battery.

Unfortunately the resolution of the schematic is too poor to read any of the smaller marking so I had to give up trying to figure out what each relay was for.
 
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A couple of comments:

I don't see a fuse between the battery and the R/R. If one of the diodes in the R/R were to short you could have troubles,

I see you have two shunt current meters. One on Battery Current and the other on R/R current. Generally you don't want anything between the battery and the R/R. Any voltage drop will keep the battery from charging to the R/R's setpoint (typical 14.25-14.5V).

While I don't like putting anything between battery and R/R, if you moved the one shunt on the R/R to the current gong to the electrical system then you will have measured two values that help you deduce what the R/R current is without having at least he one shunt meter.

You ignition switch is also powered with unfused power. Which means the Orange coming back is not fused either. You need to put a fuse close to the battery as protection from any one of various shorts.

You have a lot of frame grounds. Just make sure that the power returns have an easy path back to the R/R(-). That is where all the current returns to when you are charging the battery.

Unfortunately the resolution of the schematic is too poor to read any of the smaller marking so I had to give up trying to figure out what each relay was for.


Thanks for the feedback. I'll take a look at this. You're absolutely right about the fuse being needed between the RR and battery. If I did miss that, it would be a bozo error on my part.
 
Have you got any picture of the unit with mounting?

Sounds good and for the reasons you did this , I did this....

See the All NEW Solid State Power Box


It is bike nite here in Tuscon, so I'll be back tomorrow.

I'll take a picture and upload it later. BTW, NICE product! Good idea to use FETs, etc. I'd buy one if it wasn't for my Maslowian need to tinker myself! Know what I mean?
 
A series R/R protects the stator from frying. I bought a low mileage used unit off ebay for $40 shipped.
 
A series R/R protects the stator from frying. I bought a low mileage used unit off ebay for $40 shipped.

After I responded started thinking that maybe the one I bought was a series RR. That pesky memory of mine.
 
The problem with the shunt type R/R is that it dogs the stator 24/7. A lighter load might just keep it shunting through the stator more. Your only salvation will be upgrading to a Series regulator that shuts off when not charging. A lighter load certainly gives you more for your accessories, but it isn't going to do much for the stator.
 
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The problem with the shunt type R/R is that it dogs the stator 24/7. A lighter load might just keep it shunting through the stator more. Your only salvation will be upgrading to a Series regulator that shuts off when not charging. A lighter load certainly gives you more for your accessories, but it isn't going to do much for the stator.

Agreed... I need to see if I actually did get the series RR
 
There are only three on the market that I know of that work with the GS bikes, the Polaris SH-775, the Compu-Fire 55402 And I believe an Eletrix unit (not sure of the number, but 601 comes to mind). It is unlikely you got one by chance, especially shopping for price.
 
Here's a photo of the regulator and fuse block. It's definitely not as pretty as the SSPB!
 
There are only three on the market that I know of that work with the GS bikes, the Polaris SH-775, the Compu-Fire 55402 And I believe an Eletrix unit (not sure of the number, but 601 comes to mind). It is unlikely you got one by chance, especially shopping for price.

Electrix is Electrosport and they dont have a Series R/R. Cycle Electric is the 3rd Series R/R and there is also a German made one as well.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=191795
 
Thanks for the heads up. Not totally accurate on my part except the series R/R's are a bit few and far between.
 
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