• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Power Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Black Knight
  • Start date Start date
B

Black Knight

Guest
Gentlemen

Here is my issue ...This bike has to pass the state of AZ emission's before it can be tagged and below is what has been serviced or replaced

all 4 carb's rebuilt and synced
all 4 spark plug's been re-gapped
all 4 plug wires replaced
all 4 plugs are getting fire
air filter cleaned
all 4 air/fuel mixture screw's turned out 1-1/2 turn's ..

now my question is it'll idle fine after it warm's up but if i open the throttle to say 3,000 rpm's i can hear some popping and a slight mis on the right bank . If i try and ride it about 100 yard's it sound's like it starving for fuel . I can't afford to put it in the shop and i'm thinking about selling it because it's being pain the rear to get it right .

I'm running out of idea's
 
For one thing the pilot screws are in too far. I'd try 2.5 turns out and then tune them after the bike is warm until you achieve the highest idle speed.

I'd also check the petcock function. Fuel should flow freely with the valve set to prime, but not flow when set to On or Res unless vacuum is pulling on the valve. With some vacuum pulling on the line when set to On and Res, fuel should flow.
 
Last edited:
air/fuel screws=pilot screws ?


I thought the prime side of the fuel valve was for getting it to start when the tank ran out of fuel ?

So in other word's the On part for the fuel should be placed in pri ?
 
Black Knight said:
air/fuel screws=pilot screws ?


I thought the prime side of the fuel valve was for getting it to start when the tank ran out of fuel ?

So in other word's the On part for the fuel should be placed in pri ?
Click to expand...

Yes, the screws are the same. 1.5 turns is in too far. Open them further and play with them from there to achieve the best running.

Did you play around with the petcock to test it? As I said, check to see if fuel flows when set to prime. No gas should come out when set to On or Res unless there is vacuum pulling at the port. Many times the petcock won't flow enough gas when in ON or Res, won't shut off when vacuum is removed, will send fuel back down the vacuum line and into the engine, etc. That's why testing is necessary.
 
Hi,

It sounds like you are making progress. Keep up the good work. :)

Are we talking about your '83 GS1100GLD? I would encourage you to put your bike year/model in your signature file so that we don't have to go through your old posts to find out. ;)

In the interest of thoroughness, here are some pertinent links:

Where Do These Hoses Go?
This guide explains the operation of the Suzuki vacuum petcock and illustrates the various hoses around the fuel tank, carbs, and petcock.

http://cycleorings.com
Get a kit from our friend Rober Barr to replace all of the rubber O-rings in the entire carb rack. It's always best to reuse the stock metal parts rather than using the lower quality parts included in most carb rebuild kits. Rober Barr's O-ring kit and a float bowl gasket is usually all you need, and it's much cheaper than carb "rebuild" kits.

Carb Cleanup Series
This is the proper, tried and true way to disassemble and clean your carburetors. Completely disassembling and dipping each carb body, and all its associated small metal bits, in Berryman's (or other) carb dip (for up to 24 hours) will ensure that all of the small passages in these carbs are thoroughly opened. Then reassemble with the new O-ring kit.

Synchronize Carburetors (@ BikeCliff)
Synchronize Carburetors (@ bwringer)
A couple of carburetor vacuum synchronization guides.

Plug Chops-Highest RPM Methods
A guide to setting your idle mixture screws (pilot screws?) using the "highest idle" method. Mr. Nessism gives good advice - start at 2.5 turns out and adjust each cylinder from there.

Carb Specs: (Float Height/Jetting/Tuning)​
Carb Notes: (Synchronizing/Troubleshooting/Theory)
A lot of general information regarding carb setup and adjustment. Did you properly set the float height? Improper float height can cause fuel starvation.

Air Intake Repair: (Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement)
Airbox Sealing
Replace intake boot o-rings
​
The machine must also have an air tight intake system. Air leaks in the airbox, carb boots (intake boots between carb and head), or airbox boots (between airbox and carbs) will allow too much air into the system causing a lean condition or fuel starvation.

Replacing Exhaust Connectors
Exhaust leaks can also cause too much airflow through the engine making it difficult to tune properly. Make sure the exhaust gaskets and connector gaskets are in good repair.

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)
Proper valve clearances are critical for combustion aspiration and to keep from burning valves, an expensive repair. Tight valves cause symptoms such as difficult cold starting and long warm-up times.

All of this information was included in your "mega-welcome" you received in your original thread. You can also find it in the READ ME page on my little website. I realize that this is A LOT more information than you asked for, but all of the above must be in good working order to ensure proper operation. Taking any shortcuts will leave you frustrated. Once all of this is taken care of you will have a great running, reliable machine.

Old bikes can be a pain at first, especially if they have been neglected, abused, or have been sitting around in a barn for years. Keep us informed of your progress. Let us know how we can help.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff




​
 
Last edited:
wished there was a member from the the forum close by me that could come by and help set these carb's correctly .

btw i think i've got some light smoke on the left bank ..so i'm not sure what happened ? . after i adjusted the screw's 2.5 turns out
 
Popping can mean, excess air, or excess fuel......

I had a similar problem as you.
It turned out to be the Mixture Screw on Carb #4 was not set right.
The screw had crud between the threading, and I have to turn it Differently than the other 3....don't know why....but it worked!


How clean is the gas tank?
Not running on stale gas?


If you're getting a mis-fire, that can mean one of your Carbs is blocked or slightly gummed-up, somewhere.....
(since you said you already replaced the coil)

You sure you cleaned the carbs good enough?
I know whenever I do a quick-cleaning of my carbs, they only run right 50% of the time. And if I let it sit more than 2 weeks, I get that "put-put" sound coming from the right bank.


You are using the proper diameter fuel hose, correct?
Are you running any after-market fuel filters?

Are you sure the Carb boots are all super tight?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top