The clutch hydraulic line is a cut-to-size arrangement. The slave end has a banjo fitting crimped on it, and the other end is just plain - once you route the line and cut it to size, you slide on the strain relief boot, the nut, the crush sleeve, and insert the ferrule into the end of the tube. Easy peasy. In my circumstance, the strain relief boot needed a but of trimming so as to prevent the line from pressing excessively against my speedo. Also, in the last couple photos, you can see some black sleeving that I installed over the hydraulic line for chafing protection - this was purchased from McMaster-Carr and is shown in the first photo displaying all of the parts used in this project. The installation of the banjo bolt and bleeder screw at the slave cylinder don't really need any explanation. The pink zip-ties were used for mock-up routing only 
Step 5 - Bleeding: The easiest way to fill and bleed this system is as follows - once all of your connections are tight, connect a syringe filled with Magura Blood with a small tube to the bleeder screw and open the bleeder (I used the syringe from my fork oil gauge). With the M/C cap off and the handlebars rotated so that the reservoir is level, force fluid backwards into the system until the reservoir is full. From this point, you can easily pressure bleed the system by hand - connect a length of hose to the bleeder screw so it is pointing up and then curving down into a pan or bucket. Having the hose go upward first keeps fluid on top of the bleeder and prevents air from re-entering the system. From this point, squeeze the clutch lever and hold it, open the bleeder to release some fluid and then close the bleeder before releasing the handle. After doing this about 10x (keep the reservoir filled at all times), all of the air will be gone from the system, and you will have a solid clutch pull.
Step 5 - Bleeding: The easiest way to fill and bleed this system is as follows - once all of your connections are tight, connect a syringe filled with Magura Blood with a small tube to the bleeder screw and open the bleeder (I used the syringe from my fork oil gauge). With the M/C cap off and the handlebars rotated so that the reservoir is level, force fluid backwards into the system until the reservoir is full. From this point, you can easily pressure bleed the system by hand - connect a length of hose to the bleeder screw so it is pointing up and then curving down into a pan or bucket. Having the hose go upward first keeps fluid on top of the bleeder and prevents air from re-entering the system. From this point, squeeze the clutch lever and hold it, open the bleeder to release some fluid and then close the bleeder before releasing the handle. After doing this about 10x (keep the reservoir filled at all times), all of the air will be gone from the system, and you will have a solid clutch pull.
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