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Progress!!! 1978 GS1000E Restoration/Performance Rebuild

philosopheriam

philosopheriam

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I'm finally making some excellent progress on my 1978 GS1000E restoration and mild performance rebuild.

Today (7/14) I removed the engine - I will be heading into work early to degrease the frame and swingarm with a hot water pressure washer. From there, the frame is off to FrameCrafters in Union, IL to have the frame checked for straightness and all of the welds inspected - any necessary repairs will be made at that time. They are very familiar with GS frames and different types of frame bracing techniques.

Pickedup by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
When I picked her up in October of 2013

Bodyworkoff by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Partialdssy by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Framewithengine by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Framewithoutengine by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Fuelforrebuilding by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

The last pic are "supplements" necessary for working on a motorcycle :-)
 
Last edited:
Big T said:
What's your end goal for the build?
Click to expand...

End goal is a resto-mod that doesn;t stray too far from the stock bike:

Salty's 2-pot brake upgrade with new wave rotors
1100 big bore kit, ported/polished head with bronze valve guides, stainless oversize valves, heavy duty head studs and nuts, manual CCT
Web cams grind 118 with adjustable timing gears
Dyna-s ignition
34mm Mikuni RS carbs
Custom seat
Powdercoated frame
All new bearings, 530 chain conversion, etc...

Get my drift :-)
 
Good luck with the resto. Having said that, I can't understand why some people take the wheels off a bike that has the engine in it still. it seems that it would be way harder to work on. I am aware of the lifting the frame off the motor technique, and maybe that was employed here, but that would be it.
 
Last edited:
Folks,

Sorry that updates to this thread have long been overdue:

I will post pics in the next day or so, but here is what has been completed thus far:

COMPLETED
Seat re-foamed and re-upholstered
(Jon Revilla, The Seat Guy)

All tanks and plastics repainted - OEM decals, gloss black paint, clearcoat
(Brady Polowy, Chicago IL)

Crank disassembled, re-indexed, and welded
Transmission gears undercut
(John Pearson, Pearson Racing)

Cylinders bored/honed to accept Wiseco 1100 kit, deck surfaced, pistons balanced, rings gapped
(Kim, Carolina Cycle)

ALMOST DONE
Head ported/polished, oversized stainless 1-pc valves, custom grind web cams, bronze valve guides, radius valve job, Viton stem seals, performance springs
Shaved 1100 clutch hub with HD backing plate and springs
(Rapidray, almost done :-)

Wheels, custom 2-tone powdercoat in silver and speedway black
(The Powder Pro)

Frame, AMA-style bracing and custom swingarm brace, de-tabbed, a few minor tube repairs
(Framecrafters)

Sidecovers, imperfections sanded down and polished
(Me)


When she's done, I will post a ton of pics. Just wanted to let everyone know that this build didn't fall by the wayside!
 
Last edited:
JTGS850GL said:
Just curious... How much did it cost to get the crank done? You can PM me if you want.
Click to expand...

No problem - John charges around $450 for a "race" build which includes a disassembly and cleaning of the crank, inspection of all bearings and parts, reassembly, reindexing, and welding. Any necessary replacement parts are extra.

A simple welding job is around $150, I think...
 
Looking GREAT so far! :cool: The paint looks FANTASTIC! I also like the over-size intake valves but must question why you didn't just use an '80-up head for the intake ports??? :confused:
I have run a set of those cams for a couple of decades in one of my 1100/1000 bikes and they work great. ;)
 
GSX1000E said:
Looking GREAT so far! :cool: The paint looks FANTASTIC! I also like the over-size intake valves but must question why you didn't just use an '80-up head for the intake ports??? :confused:
Click to expand...

The small-port head has a lot of meat on it, thus, my head builder could shape the ports the way HE wanted to do it...
 
Those intake walls are getting pretty thin at the mounting flange. How do the intake boots seal against them?
 
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