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Project: 1985 GS550ES

  • Thread starter Thread starter MelodicMetalGod
  • Start date Start date
Re-Installed the Starter...

Re-Installed the Starter...

...while considering carb options (pilot screw issues).

I had removed the starter due to a spider and bee infestation that I discovered when I removed the starter cover plate for cleaning. The bee made a home out of mud in the starter bay and in one mounting tab while the spider (and about a million fried babies) was in the other tab with a lot of silk. Odd neighbors.

Before pic

After pic

I don't know about you, but I feel MUCH better knowing that I'll be the only rider on my bike! :)

Starter is re-installed. \\:D/

Now, time to get back to this pilot screw issue...
 
Last edited:
Factory Service Manual acquired!!!

Factory Service Manual acquired!!!

What a wealth of information!

Got it from RepairManualClub.com. Not a pretty or efficient website, but it did deliver and for free!
 
Do I need to pull the throttle assembly for the dip process?

I'm asking because a) I haven't found any removal procedures for doing so, b) I can't seem to pull the cap on the outside of the assembly and c) in the carb cleanup series, it looks like the carb is dipped with the throttle valve still installed (but I'm not certain from the pic).

Obviously, my big concern is whether or not the soultion will reach any seals on the throttle assembly. Also, it seems the end cap is made of something other than metal.

I'm guessing I need to pull that throttle assembly out, but I'd appreciate a few second opinions. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
How long do you dip?

How long do you dip?

So now it's two questions:

1) Do I need to pull the throttle valve assembly or can I dip the body with the throttle valve still installed?

2) How long do you dip the carbs for? My dip (Gunk) recommends 20 minutes.
 
I am not sure I'd dip them... IIRC there's no o-rings on the throttle shaft, so it's safe to dip. But if you can get the pilot screws out, just clean them :-)
 
Everything I've read says to not remove the throttle plates. Since you'd have to pull them in order to remove the throttle assembly, I wouldn't do it. Like Nero said, no rubber involved with those. I had mine in the dip for up to 3 days, and they came out fine. My dip also says something like 20 minutes, but I think you want to go for at least 12 hours.
 
Nerobro said:
I am not sure I'd dip them... IIRC there's no o-rings on the throttle shaft, so it's safe to dip. But if you can get the pilot screws out, just clean them :-)
Click to expand...

Huh? After everything I've read on this site regarding cleaning carbs, that is the first time that I've read anything indicating that dipping may not be the way to go. What gives?
 
it's just that there's not always a need to dip em... a can of carb cleaner and about 45 minutes to an hour Nerobro and I cleaned a set of 83 GS550ES carbs that had been oil fogged for storage quite a few years ago...

make sure you pull the strainer over your float valves out... the strainer has an o-ring on it..
 
Well then, I think I'll give that a go. That's how I cleaned 'em on my CB350 back in the day (I didn't even KNOW there was this thing called "dip"). Of course, now that I've said that, how many folks will chime in to say that "If it ain't dipped, it ain't done!" :?

BTW, I've got the float valve assembly's pulled and I've seen the o-ring. O-rings are the whole reason I was asking about removing the throttle assembly and also why I was attempting to remove the pilot screws (that were already stripped). There are o-rings and seals all over these things! :(
 
Pics!!! Project Photo's including the latest!

Pics!!! Project Photo's including the latest!

For your viewing enjoyment and hopefully helpful to others considering cracking their BSW30SS carbs. Photo Album (98 photos to date)
 
You've got a nice looking 85 550ES. I am restoring my 84 550ES. Have your carburetors been cleaned? I would suggest you remove them pull them apart and remove the plastic and rubber parts and clean them in carburetor cleaner and then use high pressure air to clean out all of the passages. Dirty carbs cause all kinds of issues. We have a unique carb system in that our bikes are equipped with (2) Mikuni Two barrel carbs.
I pulled mine off and they had a lot of crap in them that the carb cleaner took care of. I installed a vance and hines header and pipe so had to rejet. I have had a lot of problems getting it to run right, but now it really does run well and pulls real hard. Keep at it, you seem to have the will and stamina to see it through. I am not sure what the hoses are in the picture. I have just the two hoses 1 fuel and 1
 
You have a great little bike and it looks good already. I am restoring my 1984 GS550ES and the first thing I did was remove, teardown, and clean the carburetors. They were dirty and really needed a cleaning in carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. Check your rubber boots for correct fit and tightness on the front and back of the carbs. Spend a few bucks and put in new plugs with antiseize brushed on the threaded part.

I removed my exhaust system and installed a Vance and Hines pipe that I found on Ebay. I had to rejet for the pipe, and the bike runs hard and sounds great. Sorting out some electrical problems, my regulator/rectifier just burned out and I have one on order.

You appear to have the will and stamina to keep at your project. Keep at it and keep asking questions.

Good luck to you. Tom
 
Under hard braking, if you don't have the vent tubes hooked up, you're going to end up with gas all over hte top of your block. :-) I"m goingto be reinstalling my vent tubes :-/
 
Thomas Kenny said:
You have a great little bike and it looks good already. I am restoring my 1984 GS550ES and the first thing I did was remove, teardown, and clean the carburetors. They were dirty and really needed a cleaning in carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. Check your rubber boots for correct fit and tightness on the front and back of the carbs. Spend a few bucks and put in new plugs with antiseize brushed on the threaded part.

I removed my exhaust system and installed a Vance and Hines pipe that I found on Ebay. I had to rejet for the pipe, and the bike runs hard and sounds great. Sorting out some electrical problems, my regulator/rectifier just burned out and I have one on order.

You appear to have the will and stamina to keep at your project. Keep at it and keep asking questions.

Good luck to you. Tom
Click to expand...


Replace your R/R with one off a new GSXR... if you keep an eye on ebay there are a few out there... they are damn near 3X the size though and you may need to fab up a small bracket for it (or lay it down between the rear fender and the battery box...) Do yourself a favor also... check on your stator while you're looking into the electrics... we've burned up a couple as R/Rs have died on us. Also check all the wires and connectors from the R/R back to the stator...when my R/R burned up I melted the stator wires and connector leading to the R/R...
 
Thanks Skreemer, I'll check my wires down stream from the R/R. I bought a new R/R from www.rectifier.com
for my GS550 ES for $79.00 and $9.00 freight. I hope that fixes things. I'll do some output checks from the alternator to be sure everything else is working properly.

Did you ever get your yoshimura cams installed in your 550ES ????

Distraction 528 cam and helped me tune mine to the Vance and Hines Pipe and It is definately stronger with the pipe :-) I am running 107.5 jets across all four but I think I need to go back to 37.5 mm on the pilots from the upsize 40.0 as the bike idles too rich with the 40.0mm pilots. Regards, Tom
 
Thomas Kenny said:
Skreemer that should read www.regulatorrectifier.com

Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link... The main problem we were having is that the R/Rs were a bit small and didn't dissapate the heat fast enough during the ride... Since I dropped the GSXR600 one on there I haven't had an issue... though I have abuddy with a CB650SC that needs a new rotor and R/R...

are you running the K&N pod filters on yours? Mine seems rich at idle as well and I was thinking about setting the fuel/air mix lower....

if you could PM me your specs and settings that would be awesome.. we can compare notes and not muck up this thread...

and yeah I got the cams in... at the top end near 7K there's a huge yet smooth rush of power... coming off throttle though I get the pops... Nerobro and I are looking at building a few O2 sensor kits for checking fuel/air mix at the collector...
 
Thomas Kenny said:
You have a great little bike and it looks good already. I am restoring my 1984 GS550ES and the first thing I did was remove, teardown, and clean the carburetors. They were dirty and really needed a cleaning in carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. Check your rubber boots for correct fit and tightness on the front and back of the carbs. Spend a few bucks and put in new plugs with antiseize brushed on the threaded part.

I removed my exhaust system and installed a Vance and Hines pipe that I found on Ebay. I had to rejet for the pipe, and the bike runs hard and sounds great. Sorting out some electrical problems, my regulator/rectifier just burned out and I have one on order.

You appear to have the will and stamina to keep at your project. Keep at it and keep asking questions.

Good luck to you. Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment on the bike and the good wishes!

The carbs are off and in process right now. Haven't had a chance to work on them since last week, but I think the next time I get to work on them I s/b able to get them cleaned up and back on the bike. So far the carbs look very clean except for rust (or a rust-like sediment) in the bowls. The big problem is that the pilot screws are buggered, which is why I bought the second set of carbs last Saturday. I plan to attempt to drill and use a backout bit on the pilot screws on my original set and replace them with the pilot screws from the second set of carbs.

The intake boots from carbs to engine seem to be in good shape, but everyone recommends that I replace them anyway, so I probably will, sooner or later.

I replaced the spark plugs a few weeks back, so that bit is done. However, I didn't use any antiseize product. Is that a big problem?
 
I replaced one of my intake boots as it was visibly damaged the other was old but fine. I put antiseize on my plugs because you are putting a steel thread into an aluminum head. My plugs always come out easier and I think using antiseize is easier on the threads in the head. You will no doubt have your plugs out a few times so a litte anti-seize is a good thing. By the way I have an extra set of carbs that I bought off of Ebay so if you run into a part that you can't find I might be able to help. :-) Tom
 
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