Project Beast GS1000 Your input, please

[Guest]

It's about time to start on the winter project, the future Beast. I just saved a bunch of time and money acquiring these items:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=300049237795&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=300049238737&rd=1

I wanted some opinions on what to do about the cams, carbs, and crank. I want the bike to be street-able (not a drag bike), but beastly just the same.

Any recommendations on the cams?

I need to weld the crank. Any suggestions there? The guy I bought this stuff from said I could get the crank welded for 75 bucks?

And the carbs. I have been looking for some VM29's, but they are scarce and expensive. Should I just bite the bullet and get them? I have been told that some other carbs that would work well would be the 29 keihin CR smoothbores, and that maybe 31 keihin CR's or even 33 mikuni smoothbores would work. I have a set of stock VM26's and a set of VM28's with accelerator pump from a KZ1000.

So if this were your motor, how would you set it up? Thanks for your input.

 

[RobGS850L]

Bruce. How many times do I have to tell you don't do it? Throw all that bike junk in the back of the pickup and drop it off at my place. Your just throwing money away. Come on pal I wouldn't steer you wrong, now would I? :wink:

 

[Guest]

You inspired me Rob! After seeing all the fun stuff you did to your bike, I want to play, too!

 

[Tom MLC]

I wanna help!

Uh...whats welding the crank mean?

 

[80GS1000]

Renobruce-

How are you gonna keep the front wheel on the ground?

There must be some GS1000 hotrod energy floating around in the universe, because I just sent an email to APE today asking how much it would cost hop up my GS1000 engine with the stuff below. (BigJay - if you're reading this, I hope you don't mind me posting APE's prices for these mods)

Like you, I want a streetable GS1000 hotrod. One of the really knowledgeable guys on oldskoolsuzuki.info says that you can expect to see between 122-128 HP on pump gas, and 135-140 HP on race gas with the engine mods below. :shock: Considering the stock GS1000 engine makes 90 HP, that's a significant increase.

My dream GS1000 engine would have all this (the engine mod prices are from APE):

*1085 cc overbore job w/ new Wiseco pistons- $xxx- you already have this.
*oversized valves/cams installed- $250 on all stainless valves, $250 labor, cams $450
*polished/ported cylinder head- $xxx- you already have this
*welding the crank so it won't twist up under load - $90
*transmission undercut to keep all that extra torque from slipping the tranny out of gear under load - $300

Other stuff:
*stage 3 carb kit - about $100
* Dyna S electronic ignition - about $350
* quality 4 into 1 pipe - depends.
* K&N pod filters

To get all that power to the ground, you'd probably want to do the radial tire conversion in the front and back of the bike (GSXR front end, 160 radial rear with new brake in the rear) because I would imagine 122-128 HP would spin up and spit out a stock 130 rear bias ply in a hurry.

You may also want to brace your frame per the info on oldskoolsuzuki as well to keep it from flexing under the additional power, especially in corners.

 

[Dan Ruddock]

Bruce I know cams, how much bottom end are you willing to sacrifice for more top end? I chose a profile for my engine that adds 1.25mm more lift and only 5 degrees more duration than the stock cam(ideal street profile). You want something that gives you more top without killing the bottom. I can help!!
Dan

 

[Guest]

Bruce I know cams, how much bottom end are you willing to sacrifice for more top end? I chose a profile for my engine that adds 1.25mm more lift and only 5 degrees more duration than the stock cam(ideal street profile). You want something that gives you more top without killing the bottom. I can help!!
Dan

That sounds like what I want. Fill me in, brother! Are these something you bought?

 

[Dan Ruddock]

Bruce I am a webcam dealer you can get it from me or go straight to web for it. Talk to debbie at web mention my name and they can get it done. the grind number is 151i. If you get it from me I might be able to squeeze a small discount in. Dan

 

[Guest]

Bruce I am a webcam dealer you can get it from me or go straight to web for it. Talk to debbie at web mention my name and they can get it done. the grind number is 151i. If you get it from me I might be able to squeeze a small discount in. Dan

Thanks, Dan! I'll get with you when I'm ready. I've blown my wad for a little while :shock: I'm just now getting the bike stripped down. I made a deal with a shop where I just installed a media blast booth next to their powder coat bake oven. I'm getting the frame and misc. parts blasted and powder coated for $200 \\/ I'm having the parts done in either "smoked chrome" or "almost chrome" (two new powder coat colors) and then a clear powder coat on top of that! That should look good with the gloss black engine!:-$

 

[drhach]

You got a great deal on that cylinder and piston kit. I was watching it closely hoping nobody would bid on it (yeah right) congrats. I'd be curious to know how many people on this list have outbid me at various times. I gues I should stop being sucha cheapskate. Have fun with your new project.

 

[Guest]

You got a great deal on that cylinder and piston kit. I was watching it closely hoping nobody would bid on it (yeah right) congrats. I'd be curious to know how many people on this list have outbid me at various times. I gues I should stop being sucha cheapskate. Have fun with your new project.

Thanks

I was actually willing to go a bit higher, but sniped it up at the last second for a good price. It should be a fun project! I will be asking for lots of help, I'm sure.

 

[RobGS850L]

I looked at the Web Camshafts website and couldn't find that grind number. I wonder if it's a special "Skunk" only grind. Boohoohahaha. Blah blah.
I would lean in the direction of a street strip cam setup and not a more racey type on the street.
My brother in law was also looking at the parts you got and says he should have tried for them. I told him "You snooze you lose".
I personally don't think you'll have to do all the extra high performance mods to the bike as far as undercutting the tranny or frame mods. It sounds cool to do those things but I don't think you really need to. Your 1150 puts out some ponies and it doesn't have those mods. If the front tire wants to lift lean forward. If the rear tire starts smokin' just let me enjoy the show.:shock:

 

[80GS1000]

I personally don't think you'll have to do all the extra high performance mods to the bike as far as undercutting the tranny or frame mods. It sounds cool to do those things but I don't think you really need to. Your 1150 puts out some ponies and it doesn't have those mods.

Depends on how hard you intend on riding the bike. If it's a street-only bike, then bracing the frame and undercutting the tranny are probably unnecessary.

The 1085 kit with the flowed/ported head, electronic ignition, stage 3 carb kit, pods, and a 4 into 1 should make 10 to 12 HP over stock.

If the bike will see any roadracing track duty or other spirited riding, then bracing the frame and doing the tranny work might be a good idea. I've had my GS1000 slip out of gear several times between 7000-8500 RPM when accelerating hard. The RPMs then shoot to the ceiling till the rev limiter between your ears recognizes what happened and lets off the throttle. That's scary because of the damage overrevving the engine can cause. With the extra HP and torque you'll be making, you might find this to be the case for you too. The tranny undercut would prevent this. The weave from a spindly frame flexing while leaned over in a corner at high speed is downright scary. Bracing the frame would help prevent this.

 

[RobGS850L]

I agree all the way as far as what the added mods do for keeping a good ride together. A tranny with gears that are beginning to round off it's a real good idea to undercut unless you desire to leave souvenirs on the street. I'm just being a bit conservative I guess. I've just seen alot of folks overdo it.

 

[Dan Ruddock]

I looked at the Web Camshafts website and couldn't find that grind number. I wonder if it's a special "Skunk" only grind. Boohoohahaha. Blah blah. :shock:

You are right, I wanted a cam that kept the duration close to stock but had more lift. There standard offering started at 16 degrees more duration than the stock cam which was more than I wanted for my app. If you look closer you will see that grind # is offered for the ZX9 Ninja. Web is very good about satisfying individual needs and if you come up with a bad idea they will tell you. Dan

 

[RobGS850L]

Yeah duration is rpm (which creates horsepower) where lift creates power and torque. Good grind for us street guys. Don't need to lean on an engine that's driven regularly. Creating horsepower at higher rpm's isn't exactly what a guy needs on a bike in traffic and playing with the throttle and clutch and brake. I figure just look at your common rpm range that you will spend the most time in and the cam that creates the power in that range that's the one to get.

 

[Dan Ruddock]

One thing you have to realize about cam lobe design there is no free lunch and what ever you do will have an up and down side. To get more lift out of a cam with like durations you must do one or both of two things to get the lift which are increase the rate of lift or add the lift by making the nose of the cam sharper which can create wear problems. The increase in lift rate will require stronger springs which will also adds more wear. Well have I scared you away from a cam like this well I hope not. The Oem's design in large safety margins and when done by adding at little duration, nose lift and lift rate increase all three add up to a nice lift gain with maybe a slight loss of cam life (use a oil with plenty of zddp). Dan

 

[RobGS850L]

The wear probably isn't too bad compared to say the 1100-1150 type heads. I mean the shim bucket types at least they are pretty much submerged in oil. I would think the shim bucket heads would be able to handle a faster ramp what with all that area for the lobe to ride on. Kinda' like the difference between a Chevy lifter and say a Mushroom lifter. Lots more surface for the lobe. I agree totally, you really do have a give and take with high performance cams. But if you want to run with the big dogs, well...........
Actually if it were me I'd be really tempted to go a bit crazy with the new project and do a barely or not at all streetable bike. I mean what the hey Bruce has a couple of other bikes. :wink: But I don't think you ever really get hurt being a bit conservative. You don't want it to be a pain to ride.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'll add some thoughts to this thread. Keep in mind that I don't ride around as hard as many of you may and what the heck...we're all different.
I like power like the rest of you but on an old GS1000, I'd rather have power that's more usable and power that doesn't significantly effect engine life or good manners. If I really want more power, I'd rather get a newer bike. It's fun to tinker with your bike, I've done that, but I really like riding it more and have come up with what I think is the best over-all mod's for the 1000. In my mind, the perfect compromise, though the emphasis is on durability.
I have a 1085 kit...
very light smoothing of the intake ports...
cams degreed at 106...
K&N ovals...
V&H megaphone...
DJ kit for the stock carbs...
Dyna S ignition and coils...
crank welded/balanced/polished...
clutch basket welded/heavier damper springs...
Electrex RR to keep the charging system/spark happy.
I did the above to gain some noticable power but not so much it taxes the remaining stock parts. I wanted the parts to compliment each other. The cams settings make the bike a torquer and my powerband seems to be everywhere above 2,500 rpm's. I can really use this power without trying to go 120 plus. The bike is just more fun.
The bike is a LOT quicker than stock. I think the top end went up just a few mph but that's the cams. The welded crank was done because these bikes can twist the crank. The clutch basket was welded to get rid of the common rattle and to better handle the ocassional trophy dash. I believe I'll have no problem going another 100,000 plus on this engine. I don't ride hard constantly, just a blast here and there. I hate tickets. They ruin my weekend. I hate crashing more. 130 tops is fine for me and even that can smear you if you do it too much.
The one thing I would like to have is the 29 smoothies. In my opinion, the best carbs ever made for this bike. They would truly bring the final compliment to these mod's. I may still try to find a nice unmolested set someday but for now I'm just enjoying the bike.
I suppose a mild cam would compliment things even more :roll: but I doubt I'll ever bother.
Bruce, you'll have a nice bike if you remember to make the parts compliment each other. You will have to give a little if the emphasis is on power over reliability. You know me, I plan to keep the bike forever and running well so I tend to go with the above mod's.
Any help I can give on your project, I'll try.
I've done very little to the rest of the bike as far as handling. Just Progressive fork springs and shocks. Drilled the rotors and SS lines.

 

[txironhead]

Is there an article, thread or link on how to drill the rotors? I've wanted to do that to several of the bikes I've owned, but I'm not about to mess with a working brake system unless I have as much information as possible.