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Project GS1000 with GS1100G D-Port Head, 1100G Cylinder & Mikuni RS34

Start installing wiseco 1100cc pistons with new rings & circlips etc. I like the old spiral lock circlips
DSCN0002.jpg


All 4 slugs installed, space the gap per instruction and next step

DSCN0005.jpg
 
The engine is coming together nicely! And it looks clean enough to eat off of. Kudos to you and keep up the good work. This bike will be immaculate when finished I think.
 
its looking nice!!! very clean!!!

I wonder what my wifey would think about having the jugs and head in the oven though?! :D
 
Nice work Steve.

I'm looking at using VHT SP127 on the crankcase, cylinders, head and cam cover on my BB 850. Did you use the primer that they recommend? They also suggest using a clear coat to finish off.

Do you remember if Sharpy used the primer, or just de-greased and roughened up the surfaces with 320 w&d paper prior to painting?

I had my surfaces soda blasted, so they probably need roughing up, but not sure whether to prime them or not. What do you think?
 
The engine is coming together nicely! And it looks clean enough to eat off of. Kudos to you and keep up the good work. This bike will be immaculate when finished I think.

Tim Tom,
Thanks the complement, to be honest my bike has always been that clean. I used to park it inside the NJIT campus next to the Student Center so the locals would not have any opportunities.

drivera84 said:
its looking nice!!! very clean!!!

I wonder what my wifey would think about having the jugs and head in the oven though?! :D .

Just tell her with a straight face, "A man has to do what a man has to do."
 
Nice work Steve.

I'm looking at using VHT SP127 on the crankcase, cylinders, head and cam cover on my BB 850. Did you use the primer that they recommend? They also suggest using a clear coat to finish off.

Do you remember if Sharpy used the primer, or just de-greased and roughened up the surfaces with 320 w&d paper prior to painting?

I had my surfaces soda blasted, so they probably need roughing up, but not sure whether to prime them or not. What do you think?

Hi Iain,
I took the Head, Cylinder, Valve Cover and had a local Machine Shop bead blast. Once it was returned my prep was limited to cleaning the parts with lacquer thinner and then just applied the VHT SP127. No primer or other.

I think Sharpy did the same things and we had a long discussion about it in the apperance section. I copied the thread below but I am really happy with the results and its been cycled numerous times. If you can bead blast I would go that route and I would skip the primer step. Less paint is probably better . . . Thumbs up to VHT SP127. Like Sharpy stated damn near identical to OEM

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=168758&highlight=cylinder+head+stripping
 
Next I recruit my 21 year old next door neighbor to help me with the process of installing the cylinders. He is mechanically inclined as I am I Phone 5 savy. After a couple of attempts he gets the hang of squeezing the pistons rings inside the OD of the piston so the cylinder drops down evenly. Could not take any pics of that process, oh well

Tech Note: You can use either a GS1000 or GS110OG base gasket. The 1000 measures .020" thick while the 1100G gasket is nearly twice as thick (.039"). The 1100G gasket will have to be cut out a little larger arounf the egg shaped O-rings otherwise those O-rings won't fit. Other than that they are interchangeable. I have no idea why Suzuki made the base gasket thicker but I figured it was from warranty lessons learned so I used the 1100G base gasket

Before installing stuff, I wipe the liners down with a light coat of 15W-40

DSCN0003.jpg


DSCN0039.jpg


DSCN0040.jpg
 
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Steve, how far down below the deck surface is the piston crown? Hard to tell from the photo but maybe that thinner base gasket will give you zero deck height, which is what I think you want.
 
Hi Steve.........thanks for that link.

After a light 320 sanding, I've decided to go with the VHT SP148 primer and one coat of VHT SP127A Uni Ali. I'll finishing off with 2 coats of VHT SP145 clear to add protection against future fuel, brake fluid or acid spills.

Ed, I think most of the GS cylinders are designed to allow the pistons to sit 0.020" inside the hole, with the stock base gasket at 0.020".

If Steve's outer pistons are at TDC, they look to be around 1mm (0.040") in the hole.
 
Steve, how far down below the deck surface is the piston crown? Hard to tell from the photo but maybe that thinner base gasket will give you zero deck height, which is what I think you want.

Well I guess a short explanation is required, the photos above were actaully taken after I had a local machine shop remove .040" off the top. I had prevously installed the same cylinder, temporaily tightened it down so I could take my deck height measurement. I would have had to removed .020" with the stock GS1000 base gasket since the pistons were really down in the "hole"
 
Without paying too much attention to the last reply, I bolted down the cylinder to the engine case by using some plumbing fittings that were lying around and then took measurements with my Mitutoyo D/C


DSCN0060.jpg


DSCN0059.jpg
 
Tim Tom,
Thanks the complement, to be honest my bike has always been that clean. I used to park it inside the NJIT campus next to the Student Center so the locals would not have any opportunities.


Haha I've seen plenty of bikes parked there before. Usually on the first nice spring days the campus gets over run with bikers who all park in the same spot, where parking is not 'encouraged'. Its a neat sight.

Your build continues to be awesome. And kudos for getting the neighbor kid involved. Too many kids his / my age have no idea how to put something together.
 
Haha I've seen plenty of bikes parked there before. Usually on the first nice spring days the campus gets over run with bikers who all park in the same spot, where parking is not 'encouraged'. Its a neat sight.

Your build continues to be awesome. And kudos for getting the neighbor kid involved. Too many kids his / my age have no idea how to put something together.

I would agree that most kids (21 Year Old) know less than the Old Farts (50+ Years Old) like me when we were in our early twenties. Like me not digress though, when I asked for a an extra set of hands Sean was willing to listern & help out.

Found later he is already owned a very new Suzuki GSxR 1100 which he crashed was later stolen. Now has a GSxR 600 but does not run at the moment. I think its just the battery is No Good from what I can gather, I will have to help out but he strapped for cash with a young wife & baby boy. Priorities
 
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Next, I started taking measurements with my trusty Mutoyo Digital Caliper. I decided to take measurements at both Cylinder #1 & #4. I take two measurements for each cylinder along the wrist pin axis (In between the valves). Base Gasket .039"

Deck Height measurements: CYLINDER #1 (In.)
Measurement #1 .041" & .044"
Measurement #2 .041" & .044"
Measurement #3 .043" & .044"
Measurement #4 .041" & .043"
Measurement #5 .043" & .044"

Deck Height measurements: CYLINDER #4 (In.)
Measurement #1 .046" & .047"
Measurement #2 .0465" & .0475"
Measurement #3 .0475" & .0475"
Measurement #4 .047" & .047"
Measurement #5 .047" & .047"

DSCN0034.jpg


DSCN0032.jpg


PS: This picture shows me trying to hold the D/C while taking the measurement at the same time
 
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I pull the cylinder back off and send it to American Machining in Golden, CO. Randy Albright is the owner, master machinist, old bike nut, great guy, very knowledable and fair pricing. I drop off my cylinder and instruct him to remove .040" off the top
NOTE: Even if I used the stock OEM GS1000 base gasket I would have had to remove .021". Readers will recall the GS1100G Base Gasket is .039" while the GS1000 Base Gasket is .020"

Here are couple of pics of Randy's 1972 Triumph Tiger 650 he recently picked up from Maine. Randy was a factory wrench back in the 70's so not only can he fix them he also knows the design flaws and the necessary modifications.

Can you guess the other?. . . Ooh Ooh It's a dead man find

DSCN0055.jpg


DSCN0049.jpg


DSCN0050.jpg

Now my engine looks like this again as I wait

DSCN0005.jpg
 
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While waiting for the head to get trimmed down to specification above, I decide to add the following enhancements. I remove my Falicon welded clutch basket remove the oil pump gears and replace them with a set of GS750 2V oil pump gears.

CAREFULL: Being the dumb ass, while removing the gears I dropped the dowel pin right into the oil pan . . . . got lucky and retrieved it with the flexible magnet. I used a piece of aluminum foil the first time and then skipped the foil and the next time I dropped it right in the hole. Use the aluminum foil so you don't have to go fishing

Here are the stock GS1000 oil pump gears
DSCN0091.jpg

Oil Pump gears removed
DSCN0092.jpg


GS750 Oil Pump Gears & overpriced Clutch Hub Nut
DSCN0090.jpg


Next I Install the GS750 oil pump gears . . . Thanks 80GS750
Note: It's even clean on the inside

DSCN0094.jpg
 
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Next, I reinstall the clutch basket and tighten it down with a Falicon Clutch Hub Nut which probably came from APE. It actually states GS1100 but screws right on my GS1000. I am pretty sure the clutch hub nuts are interchangeable between the 1000, 1100 & 1150

DSCN0089.jpg


I start installing the clutch pack, the stock aluminum nut can be seen on the right . . . messy
On a previous mission I cleaned up the indentations in the cluch hub sleeve but filing each groove out.
Very time consuming

DSCN0088.jpg


New Nut ready to be installed
DSCN0095.jpg

Clutch Plates reinstalled . . . ready to be buttoned up
DSCN0096.jpg
 
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it looks to me like the indentations on the basket are still there ... ??
 
it looks to me like the indentations on the basket are still there ... ??

Psyguy,
I mean the identations that the clutch plates make in the clutch sleeve V-grooves. When we look at a used clutch sleeve you can clearly see where the clutch plates have "dug" into those grooves. Most people just replace the entire clutch sleeve like posplayr did in "Restore Thread".

Sorry, I have no pics but believe me it was time consuming.

steve
 
Psyguy,
I mean the identations that the clutch plates make in the clutch sleeve V-grooves. When we look at a used clutch sleeve you can clearly see where the clutch plates have "dug" into those grooves. Most people just replace the entire clutch sleeve like posplayr did in "Restore Thread".

Sorry, I have no pics but believe me it was time consuming.

steve

I did the same repair/mod to my 850 sleeve with a file. It's made a big improvement in clutch operation.
 
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