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Project GS1000 with GS1100G D-Port Head, 1100G Cylinder & Mikuni RS34

Time to mount the Mikuni RS34s/K&Ns, I found unlike the GS1000 VM26 carb boots which are all the same P/N the 1100G carb boots have different P/N's for the Inner & Outer boots which I installed in the wrong order. Regardless

DSCN0105.jpg

RS34s have two fuel lines leading to T fitting (Not Shown)
DSCN0121.jpg

Push / Pull throttle cables install seamlessly

DSCN0122.jpg

Its a fight to install the bigger K&N individual Pods

DSCN0124.jpg


Fuel T Fitting installed: A tight fit is required to maintain gravity flow
DSCN0125.jpg


I have also installed new Dyna Spark Plug Wires from Z1 . . .ready for Gas Tank & Ops Check
 
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That looks like some serious flow from those fuel lines.
And easy to see. ;)

Daniel
 
+1: psyguy on Mikuni Carbs. I must have completed lot of work back on 7/30/2011 based on all the pictures I took

DSCN0129.jpg


DSCN0130.jpg

I turn the engine over & over by hand to ensure all the oil passages are filled, I even see the oil level drop a couple of times.

I wheel the big GS next to my Tacoma: Attach some jumper cables to its battery, twist the grip twice & pull the choke fully put, hit the starter button and it starts immediately. Being everything is new I blip the throttle up to 3.5K immediately.

DSCN0025.jpg

Besides the Idle Speed being too high the new Carbs settle down into their Clickty clack idle as I continue to blip the throttle. I turn it off after a minute since smoke is coming from the newly painted header, Cylinder & Head etc. I turn on the fan and repeat the process increasing the run time by a couple of minutes each time

DSCN0028.jpg


Parked after first break in run. Nothing leaks at all and the bark from the Supertrapp is more pronounced. Lessons learned soon to follow. . . A real Master Charger
 
Superb job on the bike.

Don't forget to retorque the cylinder head.
 
I love that paint scheme! WTG!!!
So now the bike is a 1055? Sweet!

Daniel
 
I swear I have witnessed perfection in this rebuild thread.
What a bike!
 
Excellent work! Bravo...

Think of all the money you'll save from the front wheel being off the ground all the time with those new RS34s...power wheelie city my brother. :D
 
One of the most informative, enjoyable threads I have read, many thanks for sharing.
That bike is gorgeous.
 
so is that colour silver rather than white?

yeah... what everyone else said... superb perfection excellent georgeous... and to repeat myself... sexy :D
 
I really appreciate all the positive comments from psyguy, 80GS1000, Flyboy, sedelen, 7981GS & of course jeff.saunders in the last couple of threads from my fellow GSer brothers :), I hope this thread sticks around and helps someone in the future with their GS1000/1100 2V project. BTW this thing now displaces 1100cc with Wiseco 73.5mm


A couple of points:
  1. If you do this modifcation your pistons should be at least 73.5mm since the stock GS1100G displaces 1074cc. Asking a Machinist to bore out the 1074 sleeves to accept the familiar Wiseco 1085 (73mm pistons) is splitting hairs IMO.
  2. How does it run? Its really stout with a noticeable seat of the pants Ooomph factor. I got super lucky with the RS34 Jetting, I installed Mains: 120 & Pilot 15s and it started up just fine not cough, stutter, backfiring etc
  3. The bike feels a bit heavier which I attribute to the heavier 1100G cylinders; the previous 1085cc cylinders were razor thin
  4. I will post a picture with the GS1000S fairing soon
PS: I will retorque the Head soon
 
Re-reading the thread, you mention S-1 AND S-3 cams.
Which ones are you running in it or did you use one of each and in which positions?
I have the S-3 cams (both) in my true 1100cc (73.5mm bore, 1000 motor) in my '79 750E with 29mm Smooth-bores and it runs like a scalded dog.
Especially above 6,000 rpm.
I milled the head .020 to bump the compression up a little more.
It is still my favorite weapon of choice and I have a few to choose from. ;)
Once that baby is fully broken in, it will be your favorite as well I am certain. :clap:


Daniel
 
Re-reading the thread, you mention S-1 AND S-3 cams.
Which ones are you running in it or did you use one of each and in which positions?
I have the S-3 cams (both) in my true 1100cc (73.5mm bore, 1000 motor) in my '79 750E with 29mm Smooth-bores and it runs like a scalded dog.
Especially above 6,000 rpm.
I milled the head .020 to bump the compression up a little more.
It is still my favorite weapon of choice and I have a few to choose from. ;)
Once that baby is fully broken in, it will be your favorite as well I am certain. :clap:


Daniel

Daniel,

I looked back and I was referring to the Cylinder Head Casting Id Number which is located adjacent to the cylinder head surface. The original GS1000 head was marked with a S-1 through S-3 number. The GS1100G, at least mine was identified with a S-6 Mark

Back to the cams I only have the Andrews S1 cams installed in both Intake & exhaust positions. I have always liked street cams because it lets you roll by unsuspecting maladjusted 600 Sewing Machines :) w/o sacrificing reliability

1100G_Head2.jpg

Here is a photo of GS1100G Head: S-6 Marked Lower Rt. If anyone knows all design changes between the original GS1000 S-1 head & GS1100G head that would be interesting to know. I only know the D-port, bigger chamber etc

PS: I also have a GS1100G Head 4 Sale
 
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Wow, amazing build out. Too bad you have a long wait until next ride huh?

Quick question, when dropping on the cylinder, how do you get all the rings compressed at the same time while also lowering the head? I've done it on single cylinders before but never 4!

Thanks,
Sci85
 
Wow, amazing build out. Too bad you have a long wait until next ride huh?

Quick question, when dropping on the cylinder, how do you get all the rings compressed at the same time while also lowering the head?
I've done it on single cylinders before but never 4!

Thanks,
Sci85


In pairs.
With two hands and a helper pushing down the cylinder.
I have done it by myself by tilting the cylinder on the way down. Much easier with help though.

Daniel
 
Installing the cylinder block

Installing the cylinder block

Use 4 Terry bands of the right size that you can screw around the rings on the pistons just enough to hold the rings flush with the pistons. Then place a new gasket on the crankcase and lower the cylinder block on the threaded hold down shafts slowly. Two pistons will be UP and two will be Down. As you slowly push down the two Terry bands will slide down as the two pistons engage their bores. Once the rings are seated you can remove the two Terry bands. Do the same for the other two pistons. I have done this on many bikes including a Honda CBX 1000 6 cylinder.

Kevin Strumpher
1982 GS450S, 1992 GS500E Slingshot, 1982 GSX750E, 1980 GS850G, 1980 GS1000G and 1977 Moto Guzzi 850T3
 
What did you do to get the cylinder block and head looking so good? Bead blast and paint? What paint did you use?
 
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