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pulled the for sale ad, pulled the carbs on my gs1150. what should i look for?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wes cooley
  • Start date Start date
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wes cooley

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i pulled my for sale ad as i think people are spooked over the non running issue. makes sense i would be too. sold my kz1300 instead so i'm determined to throw 100% of my time on this bike.
carbs are getting fuel all the way to the float bowls, but not into the choke circuit or possibly the pilots. even went so far as to clear the little pressed in jets for the chokes in the float bowls.
any suggestions regarding blocked passages i might want to look for? it will fire on carb cleaner shot in the carbs and it hit for a moment on its own this morning but it is definitely a fuel starvation problem.
i bought a set of 38mm flat slides, ordered a new pingel petcock for it, and a push pull throttle assembly. would like to get it running on the cv's though before i make the change over.
 
Make sure the passages in the float bowels themselves are clear. This is where the choke jets stick down into. If they're plugged, the choke circuit won't work on that cylinder. Mine were and I had a heck of a time getting them opened up. I just kept squirting carb cleaner in there, and running a bread twistie with the paper ripped of through there until I got it opened up. You'll know when it is because the carb cleaner will squirt through there like nobody's business. Use the bread twistie to check for obstructions in the pilot jets too.
 
You don't seem like an idiot, so don't take this as such but have you torn the carbs down and dipped them? Cleaned all the passages from the float bowls, and the bodies with copper wire? Dip em for at LEAST 12-24 hours a piece. It's the only way. Then clean out the pick up from the float bowl(little passages) with carb spray and a thin strand of copper wire (copper won't gouge the passage) and do the same with the rest of the passages. Spray the carb spray through, and watch where it come out, make sure all the spray patterns are uniform. Wear safety glasses, some of those passages come right back at your face. What type of kit is in it? I see it has a pipe on it...
 
Possible you might have to pull the choke pick up tubes out of the casting (gently, easy to crush) & flush those too...
 
With the CV carbs there is one thing that causes problems ? Trying to take short cuts !! They need a complete dip & O ring replacement, air box sealing..
 
put the RS's on it and be done.
don't let the non running thing bother you.
it will run and run very well i bet.
the throttle and fuel valve is a nice touch but was not necessary.
even a stock engine loves the RS series carbs over the vaccums.
FYI
i was always a little uncomfortable filing and or grinding on a gas tank to make the pingle fit.
make sure you open the hole just enough for the 3/8 pipe to enter it or else you could end up with a leak where the adapter bolts on.
let me know if i can be of any assistance.
 
carbs were pulled apart, jets removed chemical dipped, sprayed with carb cleaner to remove the nasty little film the dip leaves behind. then sonic cleaned with simple green. passages/jets were poked with a single strand of grinder wheel wire, and cleaned with hydrochloric acid. new o-rings, float needles, float needle seats, bowl gaskets. i thought everything was clean as kleenix.
i ordered the pingel because after i cleaned the stock petcock it was doing the opposite of the carbs. pumped fuel on prime, on, and reserve.
i just hate repetitve procedures. everytime you pull the tank or carbs paint is just begging to be chipped off on the bodywork and frame. if you pull the tank and carbs off three or four times paint work somewhere is going to feel the effects to some degree.
 
don't take this the wrong way but....
non stock aka hot rods need fiddled with and it should be enjoyable.
RS carbs sometimes need sinked a couple times a years depending on how much ridden.
you have a neat piece that might make around 150 at the back wheel.
get it right and go for a ride...you will be shocked at the raw thrashing power these engines make.
 
don't take this the wrong way but....
non stock aka hot rods need fiddled with and it should be enjoyable.
RS carbs sometimes need sinked a couple times a years depending on how much ridden.
you have a neat piece that might make around 150 at the back wheel.
get it right and go for a ride...you will be shocked at the raw thrashing power these engines make.

well the choke pick up tubes were clogged i'll be damned. don't know how i missed it.

the bread twisty wire was a great tip! many thanks ddaniels for that. and keeping a little piece of paper on it helps me find it on my work bench.

going up to buy some new fuel line this morning and it will be time for round two. will update the results.
rs carbs will be round three!
 
Keep pushing Bill.....That's going to be a bada$$ ride. BTW just have to say you are one of the most positive & honest guy's I've ever had the pleasure of meeting and doing business with. >Rob
 
Keep pushing Bill.....That's going to be a bada$$ ride. BTW just have to say you are one of the most positive & honest guy's I've ever had the pleasure of meeting and doing business with. >Rob
right on Rob thanks. i guess the receipts arrived okay?
well put it back togethet still no go. how about those rubber pilot plugs? should i try it with those reboved?
 
right on Rob thanks. i guess the receipts arrived okay?
well put it back togethet still no go. how about those rubber pilot plugs? should i try it with those reboved?

Absolutley not. Those plugs are there for. Reason. The pilot circuit on these carbs are metered off the main jet through a passage in the needle jet shaft. If you remove the plugs, fuel will flow unmetered through the pilot (except by the pilot itself) and it will not run well if at all. What jets are in there? With a 1229 kit, flowed head and etc you're not gonna get away with anything short of a jet kit. You'll melt the headers off that thing if you DO get it to fire. N
 
well boys, i just lit my rocky patel celebratory cigar, i just rode it for about ten minutes!:clap::dancing:
a buddy of mine told me to hold my hand over a couple of the carb body's and she spat and sputtered....then fired up! i rode it around my subdivision then a short blast down a secondary road between my subdivisions two entrances. pulled in the driveway just as the quart or so of fuel ran out.
ahhhh, it does indeed run. next- get the k&n's on, change the oil, check the air pressure, PUT SOME GAS IN, and take it for a shake down. raining out now so we could be delayed a bit due to weather conditions. i can wait, the suspence is over. first thing my wife said when i walked in the door "thank god!":D
 
well the choke pick up tubes were clogged i'll be damned. don't know how i missed it.

the bread twisty wire was a great tip! many thanks ddaniels for that. and keeping a little piece of paper on it helps me find it on my work bench.

going up to buy some new fuel line this morning and it will be time for round two. will update the results.
rs carbs will be round three!
Can't really take credit for the bread twistie as it was somebody else's recommendation to me. Glad it worked out. I wish I had thought of putting a piece of paper or tape on mine. I went through about three because I kept losing them.
 
By the way, I used the twistie to poke through every single passage I could find. Sometimes even dipping doesn't get everything out. Maybe a pilot circuit in the carb body(s) is clogged.
 
took it for another quick spin. couldn't help myself....
pinned the throttle in first into second then short shifted third and shut it down. lit the tire up through first into second at a roll on concrete :eek:!
phenomenal power! would definitely spank my built gs1100 i just sold. came home, drained the oil and gonna need to replace the valve cover its leaking. guess its a bit dry after five years. no smoke or funny noises, motor sounds good and healthy after its long term slumber. must of put the petcock together wrong first time. no problems with it now.
think i'm going to put the stock foot pegs and mounts on plus a bigger oil cooler. little warmer here in the summer then chi town.
anyone interested in a set of mint raask rear sets for a gs1150?
 
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I had a similar problem with my 80 Gs1100E. theres an air passage in the carb opening {airbox side}that goes into the pilot jet hole, then to the idle air mixture hole. It is not a straight shot. I finally cleaned them both ways. Spray carb cleaner I think into the left side air hole in the carb and make sure it comes out in the pilot hole. Then block the air mix hole with your finger where it inters the carb and spray intp the hole and make sure it comes out the pilot jet hole. You can run guitar strings both ways of you work at it, no amount of soaking would have gotten this stuff out. Its not a very good explanation but its the best I can do. Whipped me for 2 weeks when I had to build one set of carbs out of three that had been setting a long time. Maybe someone else can explain it better then I did. Im sure some good samaritan will blast me anyway, but at least Im trying to help you.
 
I had a similar problem with my 80 Gs1100E. theres an air passage in the carb opening {airbox side}that goes into the pilot jet hole, then to the idle air mixture hole. It is not a straight shot. I finally cleaned them both ways. Spray carb cleaner I think into the left side air hole in the carb and make sure it comes out in the pilot hole. Then block the air mix hole with your finger where it inters the carb and spray intp the hole and make sure it comes out the pilot jet hole. You can run guitar strings both ways of you work at it, no amount of soaking would have gotten this stuff out. Its not a very good explanation but its the best I can do. Whipped me for 2 weeks when I had to build one set of carbs out of three that had been setting a long time. Maybe someone else can explain it better then I did. Im sure some good samaritan will blast me anyway, but at least Im trying to help you.

thank you for the tips. after i put the flatslides on i'll look into the cv's one more time.
 
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