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Question about oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter wolfman
  • Start date Start date
W

wolfman

Guest
I don't want to start a debate on which oil is better. I just have a question. I need to take care of some oil leaks and change the oil. the oil looks clean but by judging from the other stuff I've found. I am pretty sure the PO just put in regular motor oil. So my question is. Can I get motorcycle oil at the auto parts store, or do I have to go to the dealer? If I can what am I looking for on the bottle (Not what Kind)
 
wolfman said:
I don't want to start a debate on which oil is better. I just have a question. I need to take care of some oil leaks and change the oil. the oil looks clean but by judging from the other stuff I've found. I am pretty sure the PO just put in regular motor oil. So my question is. Can I get motorcycle oil at the auto parts store, or do I have to go to the dealer? If I can what am I looking for on the bottle (Not what Kind)
Click to expand...

Auto parts store will have "motorcycle oil" at cheaper than dealer prices, or you can run any synthetic or dino that doesn't have "energy conserving" on the back. Do a thread search I think somebody even posted the symbol they put on for "energy conserving".
 
Hi Wolfman,

Oreilly auto parts (www.oreillyauto.com) carries Lucas and Castrol motorcycle oil, maybe some others too. I haven't seen motorcycle specific oil in any of the other chains but they may carry it.

If you're going to pay full shot for it at the dealer what about finding an independent cycle shop to get your oil at?

Good luck,
/\/\ac
 
I think Advance and Auto Zone both have the Castrol. I also recently discovered Advance carries NGK bike plugs at $1.97 each, that's cheaper than a 10 pack online.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Auto parts store will have "motorcycle oil" at cheaper than dealer prices, or you can run any synthetic or dino that doesn't have "energy conserving" on the back. Do a thread search I think somebody even posted the symbol they put on for "energy conserving".
Click to expand...

+1 on this. You don't need "motorcycle oil", car oil is fine. The only caveat is that most car oils are branded "Energy Conserving" now. They have friction modifiers that will cause your clutch to slip and need to be avoided.

The energy conserving label is placed in the little dot that shows what SAE grade the oil is. It is often placed on the back label in a bottom corner. It will say something like "SAE SG" and if it is energy conserving that will be written in the bottom half of the dot. The "SG" is the designation for what additive packages it has, based on SAE standards. They are up to SK or SL by now, the ratings go sequentially SA, SB, SC and so on. Just as a side note, SG is the best rating for motorcycles because it had the highest levels of zinc and other anti-wear additives. But it is very hard to find now because it is an old standard. Current oils are lower in these additives because they affect emissions levels.

Just a tip, the 10W40, 15W40, 5W50 (synthetics) weights all seem to not have the modifiers. I believe it has something to do with not being able to span a wide viscosity range and achieve the energy conserving designation. The 5W30 and 10W30 weights will all be badged as energy conserving. Also, 15W40 diesel oil is a decent choice, because it tends to have higher levels of anti-wear additives than car oils.

Mark
 
As Mark said, diesel engine oil, typically 15W-40, is a good choice for motorcycles. It has more of the good anti wear additives than auto oil, which mandates less of these additives for concerns over catalyst damage. Motorcycle specific oil is also good but is extremely expensive and provides only minimal, if any advantages.
 
Mark M said:
The 5W30 and 10W30 weights will all be badged as energy conserving.
Mark
Click to expand...
NOT for a point of argument, there is also a 10w30 cj-4/sm spec non energy conserving "DIESEL OIL" should be acceptable for low temp usage only (don't confuse it with "car" motor oil).
it is an option, but with 10w40, 5w40, 15w40, 20w50 why would you want to use it.
 
Thank you!

Thank you!

You guys, as usual, just gave me a wealth of knowledge and told me what I needed to know!
 
rustybronco said:
NOT for a point of argument, there is also a 10w30 cj-4/sm spec non energy conserving "DIESEL OIL" should be acceptable for low temp usage only (don't confuse it with "car" motor oil).
it is an option, but with 10w40, 5w40, 15w40, 20w50 why would you want to use it.
Click to expand...

I see your point. I didn't mean to imply there aren't any 10W30 or 5W30 oils that aren't energy conserving in the world. I meant that none of them on your local retailer's shelves are likely to be such. My local Wally world and auto supply stores have nothing but the energy conserving ones in those weights.

Personally, I use Mobil 1 gold cap 5W50 synthetic in my streetbikes and Wally World Supertech 15W40 diesel in my 250F MX bike and am happy with them at this point.

Mark
 
Nessism said:
Motorcycle specific oil is also good but is extremely expensive and provides only minimal, if any advantages.
Click to expand...

I recall seeing an oil test done by one of the British bike mags where Mobil 1 red cap 15W50 outperformed all the other oils, bike specific or not. They asked one of the bike oil manufacturers (Golden Spectro, I think) why that was and there was no answer forthcoming...

Unfortunately, the red cap is no longer with us, but they have the gold cap 5W50, which is what I use now and it seems to be the same as the old 15W50 in performance.

Mark
 
Mark M, the only reason I knew it existed is because I have it on the shelf at work.
1-1/2 years ago I had never seen it.

another option for the oil threads...
 
Last edited:
The diesel oils now have the reduced zinc levels, too.
The reason for this is for "emissions".
Oils that are 10W30 or lighter are labeled as "energy conserving". The key is the upper number. If it's higher than 30 it does not contain the friction modifiers that can ruin wet clutches.

There are some oils that do not have the reduced zinc levels, such as Amsoil racing, Royal Purple Racing, etc. They are made for "off road" use and are exempt from the regulations.

Mobil1 has the reduced levels but is at the higher end of the limit at 800ppm.

Engine builders are having to use zinc additives when breaking in engines because with the reduced zinc levels cams and flat tappet lifters are weraing out almost immediately.
You can get the zinc additive from places like Summitt Racing. Comp Cams makes it.
 
I bought a gallon jug of Castrol GTX 10w40 with the SM designation.
It is not energy conserving. Got it at Auto Zone.
 
Been using GTX for 30 years. Know idea if they changed the spec along the line but it works so no need to fix it.
 
Yup, it has changed. All oils for street use are supposed to change due to EPA regs. Supposedly catcons don't like zinc.

FL Guy, notice the oil you bought is 10W40. The upper number is higher than 30, therefore it is NOT energy conserving, aka friction modifier added and not good for wet clutches.
 
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