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Questions about GS oil cooler fitment

Lorenzo

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I am in the process of sourcing the hardware for the above, to go on the GS 1000 (but I suppose the procedure will extend to other similar models).
Q. # 1 is: instead of fabricating/acquiring the suggested adapter plate, as per Nessism, very clear tutorial, could I just use the standard pressure switch plate, and tapping the blank on the side of it, to accept the return line?

Thanks

housingoil-pressure-switch_big1644545000-01_3795.jpg
 
I experimented with one made that way. Can't remember if there was room for a proper sized fitting though.

Key thing is to fabricate an extension piece that fits in the large center hole, which will fit down tightly over top of the oil port at the bottom of the oil distribution cavity. You want to seal down over the feed port and capture all the oil flow and direct it up to your cooler.

 
Thanks Ed;

Q. #2 Is the large center hole threaded in NPT (fine or coarse)?

Q. #3 Instead of adding a thermostat, which by virtue of it's inherent shape, with the four inlet/outlet exiting opposite sides,

4000-by-pass-300pxwide.jpg
limits somewhat, the routing of the outlet/return lines, to a stacked configuration, whereas, I would not mind separate lines, one right and the other left of the engine; so I was thinking if, adding two separate fuel taps, will do the trick.

Follows to next post
 
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The taps, like the one below, would be turned on, permitting fluid flow, upon the oil, reaching a given temperature, gathered from an oil cap temp gauge;

_57.jpg

I do not mind going analogic and actually interacting with the vehicle, like pulling the choke knob:rolleyes:
 
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#2 - I don't remember what thread size is used on the center hole, where the oil pressure sensor is normally installed. It's a parallel thread, not tapered like many pipe threads.

#3 - I don't think you can use a shut off valve in the system.

A proper adapter will fit down over the oil feed port in the oil distribution cavity and capture 100% of the oil flow. This flow is then directed up to the cooler, or to a thermostat if you want one. You can not block this flow or the engine will starve for oil (or pop a cork and create a massive leak somewhere).
 
Ed I do not mean to contradict, in actual fact I would like to have a better understanding.

Maybe I did not express myself clearly enough;

Provided that the original oil pressure switch housing, provides pressure to the switch, when making an oil outlet and blocking it after a few inches, with a petcock, wont it replicate the aforementioned labor, sending the oil back to the oil galleries?

Forgive the somewhat humble schematic sketch, hope it will clarify what do I mean.





 
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Lorenzo,
Please go back and look at the adapter tutorial and study how we are capturing 100% of the oil flow and sending it up to the cooler. If you put a shut off valve in that line the engine will starve for oil, the oil will not route back like your diagram shows.
 
So, if I were to put a shut off valve, likewise, when closed, the engine will be starved of oil?

adattatore.jpg

Wouldn'it (the petcock) actually block the flow of oil, when shut?

I should take a close look at the pressure switch adapter area.

Thanks ever so much for the patience.

P.S. Maybe the oil port adapter fitting,reaching from the port base up to the back of the blocking plate, would prevent the oil, intercepted by the shut off valve, from going back to the engine?
 
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Oil flow diverted up to cooler. The only way back into the distribution cavity is via the return port.

modified oil flow.jpg
 
Very clear indeed. So where would you put the branded thermostat, of post #3 ?

Like this...

From engine = feed line coming from the oil port
To engine = return line going back to the oil distribution cavity

thermostat.jpg
 
The how is surprisingly clear to me:)

But where, on a GS configuration, without oil filter cover oil pick-ups could the thermostat be placed?

The outlet side --from engine /to cooler-- when blocked by the thermostat, should starve the engine (?)

I think it's is a no win situation
 
Sorry, I'm not following you again.

The thermostat is easy to plumb into the system. Only real downside is finding a place for it and adding more connections which can leak.

Cold flow by nessism, on Flickr

Hot flow by nessism, on Flickr
 
Hey Lorenzo.
Just want to add a note to your proposal to fit a cooler. b sure to do a oil pressure test prior to and after you get things hooked up. You may notice there is a substansal loss in pressure. That is what I found when hooking up a cooler to my 80' GS 1000. If it is the case with yours u may want to look into a set of high volume oil pump gears. U can hook a pressure gauge to the right side of the motor just above the ignition cover.
 
Thanks again Ed. I went astray for a moment.

So moose, what would the normal pressure be for this engine?

Would be a case of installing the gauge first, take a reading and comparing it with the postinstall one?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?135261-GS1000-bolt-question

Did you fit this high volume pump gears? Where did you sourced them?

Could you please offer details on oil line size and on actual thermal improvement ?

Did you Ed experience any pressure drop on your engine?

Yes, the thermostat might be "bypassed":( just take care of warming the engine up.

Thanks
 
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I didn't run the cooler long enough for it to be a concern but pressure loss was on my mind. The high volume gears came on the 750 model and are an easy retrofit onto a 1000. I've got a set I'll sell if you decide to go that way.
 
That's an original off the shelf thermostat...
They never gonna fail, ain't they?
 
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