RE: Complaints about handlebar vibrations.

[cal_look_zero]

RE: Complaints about handlebar vibrations.

So modern clip ons for sport bikes have a built in vibration damper, along with weighted bar ends to mitigate vibrations at speed and what not. I was looking in the anatomical grip thread and saw a lot of comments about vibration and thought I would offer up some advice.

First things first: Grips. They aren't pretty, but these are hands down (pun intended) the best grips I've ever ran. The grooves on the ends/middle are perfect for safety wiring if you should so choose, and they suck up vibrations like a sponge. I'm running them on my CBR at the moment:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...rip-714-Dual-Sport-Grips.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

The second thing is dampening the vibration via the bars. I've seen some spendy/goofy aftermarket "solutions" in regards to it, but the best solution I've used when I raced MX... Caulking. Just get some basic silicone caulking and squirt it into each side of the bars. Tape off the ends, let it dry... Profit. If you want to run bar end mirrors, just stuff something in there to keep the ends clear of caulking. This will absorb A LOT of vibrations coming in through the bars.

Finally, balance your bike. Adjust your valves, set your timing, and balance your tires. You'd be surprised how much vibration your bike has gradually acquired as parts get out of alignment. I personally run "Dynabeads" in my tires to keep from having to worry about wheel weights. Been to 140+ without problems!

 

[terrylee]

How much caulk, how far into handles do want to go? terrylee

 

[Tom MLC]

Carb sync. If your vibration is at or near the 4,000 rpm range, I'd bet money the carbs are talking at you.

 

[SVSooke]

Those grips are nice,got a set on Old Yeller

 

[tkent02]

Or you could just ride a well balanced inline four and have no vibrations at all.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Not to toot it's horn yet again but I'm gonna anyway, because the longer I have it the more I love it:
The ZRX is probably the smoothest bike I've ever in my life ridden. For once I've got a Kaw with a sorted frame for starters. But they also have a counterbalance shaft and the bars are rubber isolated ala early XS twins (a must on those rolling vibrators). It's almost so smooth that it's near boring at times. I have to pay attention because I'll look at the speedo just cruising along a highway smooth as you please and I'm doing the ton or so. Yikes!
Perhaps there's a way one could isolate the bars on a GS. It would involve some fab of the top clamp. Bit it could be done.

 

[salty_monk]

Rox anti vibration risers... Yes they do work but you have to raise the bars up about 2.5" total to use them.

Bajazuki has them fitted for the out of the saddle stuff... Soon to be moved to the KLR

 

[mighty13d]

I've heard that bbs filling the handlebars works wonders as well as the ''Bar snake''


My old man just bought a Valkyrie and I have to say that it puts everything else I have been on look like a harley in comparison. We even did the nickle trick. It works.

 

[salty_monk]

I have a bar snake.... I wouldn't say it works wonders!

 

[mighty13d]

I have a bar snake.... I wouldn't say it works wonders!

well I was more referring to the bbs working wonders. It also takes into account the ease of finding them and the cost... basically the bang for buck.

 

[Guest]

well I was more referring to the bbs working wonders. It also takes into account the ease of finding them and the cost... basically the bang for buck.

Another cost effective mod is to supplement mass with simple metal slugs that press-fit into the bars. I turned a 5" piece of steel down to .688, IIRC (I think the I.D. of Superbike bars is .690", but it has been a few years now), cut it in half, and press the 2 pieces into the bars, to a depth of around 1" from the ends. This provided room to top the set-up off with a fancy pair of carbon fibre bar-ends...beautiful looking, but not even enough mass to function as a paper-weight. Basically, with the slugs we are adding more mass than a pair of $100 Manic Salamander heavy bar-ends, for free except the 1/2 hour of time.
With a good valve check/adjust, carb sync & this mod, the bike runs virtually vibe-free....the truest test for this, is to take both hands off the bars (at various rpm), and observe the image in the mirrors. The biggest vibration dampeners are actually our hands & arms....when the bars remain vibe-free with no hands (on a closed course, of course), our work is done.:dancing:

 

[cal_look_zero]

Or you could just ride a well balanced inline four and have no vibrations at all.

Not entirely true. Although I can't speak for a nice big tank like the GS (Yet) even my CBR gets a little buzzy over 120 mph/13.5k rpm. Then again at those speeds, handlebar buzz is about the last thing I'm concerned with.

How much caulk, how far into handles do want to go? terrylee

I used less than a full tube; not sure exactly how much though. I squeezed off a good amount, put a plug in the end, and stood them on end so it would flow to the outermost part. Repeated on the other side after an hour. I'd say 1/2 to 3/4 of a tube.

 

[Smokinapankake]

My Katana has solid aluminum clip-ons, no way to put anything inside them.
I did put some heavy stainless bar end weights on but I think it is mostly a cosmetic/academic exercise.

Currently looking at ways to modify a top triple to mount tubular bars; make this beast a bit more comfy. My fingers start tingling after about 20 mins.
I'm not as young as I once was, I guess....

 

[mighty13d]

My Katana has solid aluminum clip-ons, no way to put anything inside them.
I did put some heavy stainless bar end weights on but I think it is mostly a cosmetic/academic exercise.

Currently looking at ways to modify a top triple to mount tubular bars; make this beast a bit more comfy. My fingers start tingling after about 20 mins.
I'm not as young as I once was, I guess....

I'd start with putting grips on it if I was you....

 

[lurch12_2000]

My Katana has solid aluminum clip-ons, no way to put anything inside them.
I did put some heavy stainless bar end weights on but I think it is mostly a cosmetic/academic exercise.

Currently looking at ways to modify a top triple to mount tubular bars; make this beast a bit more comfy. My fingers start tingling after about 20 mins.
I'm not as young as I once was, I guess....

With that setup my fingers would go numb, my wrists would tweak out, and my shoulders would ache beyond belief after 10 miles, never mind that I would look like the hunchback getting off!!

 

[Smokinapankake]

And these are actually the clip ons off an XN85 turbo. They're about an inch taller than the stockers.

 

[Quick Cal]

As far as the caulk goes,,,I wouldn't think it could get very far into the handle bar. Along those line's,,what about using some of the expanding foam that is used around window's and door's. You could actually put an extension tube on there and literally fill the bar's with foam. Let it expand all the way out, and trim off the extra.

Would that be dense enough.

 

[cal_look_zero]

As far as the caulk goes,,,I wouldn't think it could get very far into the handle bar. Along those line's,,what about using some of the expanding foam that is used around window's and door's. You could actually put an extension tube on there and literally fill the bar's with foam. Let it expand all the way out, and trim off the extra.

Would that be dense enough.

It's not so much how much length of the bar you can fill, but the mass of the caulking. The more dense, the better.

 

[Zmike]

My Katana has solid aluminum clip-ons, no way to put anything inside them.
I did put some heavy stainless bar end weights on but I think it is mostly a cosmetic/academic exercise.

Currently looking at ways to modify a top triple to mount tubular bars; make this beast a bit more comfy. My fingers start tingling after about 20 mins.
I'm not as young as I once was, I guess....

Got a tip for you.. The top triple and bars of a 750 es/ef is a bolt on..

 

[MAC10]

I had no difficulty filling my stock bars with caulking. I just cut the nozzle to fit the plug from the bar end, and pumped away. It took 10 minutes until caulk was oozing out the opposite plug hole on the other side. it took a week to set, being enclosed where air couldn't get it. Definitely reduced vibrations.