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real gasket

  • Thread starter Thread starter catbed
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catbed

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on my real gasket valve cover gasket foy my 850, i torqued it down to 6.5 ft-lbs and it looked like it was squishing out more than it should. it also leaked in the front. it ALSO ripped along the edge. im guessing that is not supposed to happen? should i take my chances with another one or just get an OEM.
 
Oops, too tight.

Oops, too tight.

Mr. catbed,

The manual's torque specs are for paper gaskets. The Real Gaskets do not require the standard amount of torque. Just finger tight then another half to 3/4 turn is about all you need.

I usually get them all as finger tight as I can, then start in the middle and work my way out with the last bit of wrenching. Sorry to hear of your troubles. The Real Gaskets do work really well.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
catbed said:
on my real gasket valve cover gasket foy my 850, i torqued it down to 6.5 ft-lbs and it looked like it was squishing out more than it should. it also leaked in the front. it ALSO ripped along the edge. im guessing that is not supposed to happen? should i take my chances with another one or just get an OEM.
Click to expand...

Thought it was 15 inch-lbs? :confused:
 
hey guys, as long as we are talking real gaskets here, anyone know if one will fit my 1977 gs 750? i didnt see it listed on their site, thanks!
 
hey guys, as long as we are talking real gaskets here, anyone know if one will fit my 1977 gs 750? i didnt see it listed on their site, thanks!
Click to expand...

I just bought a Real Gasket for my 79 750. He does not have one listed for the 750, but it is the same gasket used on the 850. The part numbers Bike Bandit use are the same for the 77 as it is for the 79. This is the gasket you should need. RG-GS850-G1 Count to be sure you have 16 bolt holes. You should, unless someone put in the newer engine. Like I said, the 850 used the same gasket as the 750.

Greg O
 
15 inch-pounds is 1.25 foot-pounds. So yours is WAAAAAAY too tight.

The only torque wrenches that go that low are EXTREMELY expensive. Tighten until contact, then only 3/4 of a turn more. Watch the amount of "squish", and tighten in stages. Once you develop the feel, it's not hard at all.



My RealGasket is several years old and has been through 8 - 10 valve checks with no problems. When I rebuilt my low-mileage eBay engine and installed it, I used the same old faithful RealGasket.
 
ok got my new real gasket and didnt overtighten it this time. but, it still weeps oil in the front. there is barely ANY squish there. should i tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more?


also, not really on topic, but when i turn the handle bars, the rpms go up, like its pulling to throttle cable. any suggestions?
 
catbed said:
ok got my new real gasket and didnt overtighten it this time. but, it still weeps oil in the front. there is barely ANY squish there. should i tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more?


also, not really on topic, but when i turn the handle bars, the rpms go up, like its pulling to throttle cable. any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Regarding the leak, make sure there is not any gasket material or a nick in the cover/head that can create a leak path. Assuming no, snug down the cover a little more - 15 in-lbs.

Regarding the rpms increasing when turning the bars, try to reroute the cable(s) and make sure they can move with the bike slightly when turning.
 
well, the second real gasket leaks still so im going to pull the valve cover and see if there are any nicks. if there are, can i just fill them with jb weld and smooth it out with the rest of the metal? i might just get an oem gasket too.
 
Last edited:
the two inside intake cam lobes have hit the valve cover on two bolt holes.

2313374800_2a763270a6.jpg


2312565587_9fe74f92c4.jpg
 
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