Real Wheel / Spline Removal / Inspection / Replace Questions

[danny01975]

So I read all the stuff about the wheel hub splines wearing down on the 82 G models. Mine is an 82GK. I'm not sure if the PO ever greased the hub splines, and I'm inclined to believe he didn't. The bike has 33k miles on it. So I figured it would be a good idea to get some high moly grease and check it out. This is where the questions come in.

1. How in the world do I get the rear wheel out from under the bike? The service manual just says to move it to the rear of the bike. The wheel will not clear the fender and. no amount of twisting and turning will get it out. it ether hits the fender or hits the swing arm. I can't see a way to get my jack under it without hitting the exhaust. My only thought at this point is to remove the final drive assembly and maybe that will give me enough clearance to tilt the wheel and remove it to the left of the bike.

2. The grease on the hub assembly and spline is brown and thick and looks old. Even looking down into the hub, the grease is so gunky I can't see the shoulders of the splines. I tried using a coat hanger to scrape some off but it's too gunky to see anything. Tried a little brake cleaner and that didn't do much. How do I remove the spline from the wheel? I can't find it in the service manual. But from the diagram, it looks like it just bolts on. If I can get it off, I can clean it completely and really inspect the teeth.

3. Can I safely spray down the face of the final drive assembly with brake cleaner to get all of that old brown grease off? Also the wheel hub assembly? Just worried about cleaner getting into the wheel bearings or some other area that needs lubrication.

UPDATE: For anyone else who encounters this. Removing the final drive assy was the ticket. Three bolts and it came right off. The then tire came right out the left side with not issue.

UPDATE # 2: I just removed the real wheel again, this time to replace the back tire. It was super easy like this. unbolted the final drive from the drive shaft. Removed the lower shock mount and swung it out of the way. Removed the muffler on the right side (4 into 1). Removed the brake caliper bracket. Unbolted the axle shaft and slid it out. Then the whole tire and final drive assy just pops right out. Then you just pull the drive assy off of the wheel and put it aside. Couln't have been easier.

To remove the spline hub from the wheel you just remove the 6 bolts, remove the hardware, then I had to tap on the hub with a hammer while gently prying it upwards, moving around the hub as I went. It just slides up on the shafts attached to the hub. Came right out. Once out, I was able to clean the teeth, and oh man, they were 95% gone! Literally the only thing left was the face that you could see from the top. I can't even believe it was still working! Glad I checked it!

 

[Nessism]

What I do is get a 2X6 board, and put that under the center stand. That will lift the bike higher than normal. Try that first, to see if that provides enough room, but if not, you may need to remove the shock bolts, to allow the rear swingarm to pivot down, providing more room to get the wheel out. I'm not sure about this later part, because it's been a number of years since I messed with a shafty.

And good on you for looking at the spline, before you get stuck on the road some day. The subject of what moly grease to use is a whole nother rabbit hole to shoot down. There are various options, and the more moly the better. Something north of 50% as I recall is good.

 

[danny01975]

What I do is get a 2X6 board, and put that under the center stand. That will lift the bike higher than normal. Try that first, to see if that provides enough room, but if not, you may need to remove the shock bolts, to allow the rear swingarm to pivot down, providing more room to get the wheel out. I'm not sure about this later part, because it's been a number of years since I messed with a shafty.

And good on you for looking at the spline, before you get stuck on the road some day. The subject of what moly grease to use is a whole nother rabbit hole to shoot down. There are various options, and the more moly the better. Something north of 50% as I recall is good.

I managed to get it out by removing the final drive assembly. But a 2x4 under the stand probably would have worked as well. As per the serivice manual I removed the top shock bolts to allow the lower swings arms and the wheel to drop. So they were as low as they'll go. Honestly, I think removing the final drive is probably the easiest thing to do. We'll see if I have that same sentiment when I put it all back together.

I read somewhere that the Honda M60 was good. Couldn't find that but I did find some Honda M-77 which is 77% Molly. So that should work.

 

[Burque73]

That 2x6 under the center stand is a great idea. May need three sections of 2x6 if your springs are old and tired. Roll up onto two of them and slide the other under the center stand, rock the bike forward and pull out the rear block. I think the old tool kits had a lever and cable to compress the forks and tip the bike forward for rear wheel removal. Can't remember ever needing to pull the final drive on mine, but where there's a will, there's a way. I try to time it so the front wheel is removed first and just tip it a bit forward to get the rear out (EDIT supporting the bike with jack stands and/or blocks)

Wish I knew you needed a spline, Daniel. I'd have thrown one in the box with the engine guards.

Oh, here's a decent moly grease for the splines. Used it on my FJR and GS shafties.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HN-08798-9010-MOLY-PASTE/dp/B0083BWUYW/ref=asc_df_B0083BWUYW?mcid=6bfa793d498630bf8bdaa89 07a309f73&hvocijid=2961101333995911291-B0083BWUYW-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw= g&hvrand=2961101333995911291&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt =&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030456&hvt argid=pla-2281435177138&psc=1

 

[danny01975]

That 2x6 under the center stand is a great idea. May need three sections of 2x6 if your springs are old and tired. Roll up onto two of them and slide the other under the center stand, rock the bike forward and pull out the rear block. I think the old tool kits had a lever and cable to compress the forks and tip the bike forward for rear wheel removal. Can't remember ever needing to pull the final drive on mine, but where there's a will, there's a way. I try to time it so the front wheel is removed first and just tip it a bit forward to get the rear out.

Wish I knew you needed a spline, Daniel. I'd have thrown one in the box with the engine guards.

Oh, here's a decent moly grease for the splines. Used it on my FJR and GS shafties.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HN-087...cphy=9030456&hvtargid=pla-2281435177138&psc=1

Argh! I just ordered one. Wish I'd have known as well. No worries!
And I had that exact thought.. If I could just tip the bike forward somehow, to get the rear fender up a few inches, I could have gotten the tire out that way. But the front wheel was still on. So that wasn't happening.

 

[Grimly]

Well done on inspecting it.
Long ago and far away, I realised the only sensible way to make rear wheel removal on the 850s was to simply cut part of the fender off - a section out of the rear right side, which gives clearance to slide the inflated / deflated wheel out, without perching the bike high up or taking the shocks off.
Frankly, I couldn't have given a toss about opinions - needs must.