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really loose valves

Charlie G

Charlie G

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I checked the valves of an 1100g I picked up a few months back in preparation to try a start this bike and all of the valves were at least .102mm and the three largest were .178mm, .127mm , & .203mm. I've always thought a bit loose is better than tight and I'm looking other opinions. I take it this condition wouldn't cause much harm but not allow the valves to open as far as they could. Right?

Thanks

cg
 
Too lose and they might spit out at high RPMs, I haven't ever seen it but I don't go over .1mm, usually aim for .08mm. Don't know how lose is actually dangerous. Yes you are losing about .1mm of valve lift, don't think that will matter much..
 
Wow, those are huge gaps Charlie. You sure you measured correctly? A bit looser is better than tight for sure but with that type of space won't that effect the vacuum and the bike won't start? I'm sure someone else will chime in with more knowledge than I.
 
azr said:
Wow, those are huge gaps Charlie. You sure you measured correctly? A bit looser is better than tight for sure but with that type of space won't that effect the vacuum and the bike won't start? I'm sure someone else will chime in with more knowledge than I.
Click to expand...


I'm use to tight as ell gaps when I work on a new bike. This threw me for a loop. Yes I'm pretty sure I did it right. I don't know how I could screw it up that bad :eek:Thanks for the input.

cg
 
Last edited:
Maybe someone confused standard and metric?

What size shims are in there?

I've got a bunch of fat ones in the box
 
Ohhh...you'd be surprised if you work around me :) I've had to go back many a time and remeasure. I really should buy feeler gauges that have only metric on them, not both.
 
Big T said:
Maybe someone confused standard and metric?

What size shims are in there?

I've got a bunch of fat ones in the box
Click to expand...


I need a 2.45, 2.50 & 2.65. I've got an e-mail off to ArtH to see if he has some. I think he bought a kit of them from Z-1. Thanks

cg
 
azr said:
Ohhh...you'd be surprised if you work around me :) I've had to go back many a time and remeasure. I really should buy feeler gauges that have only metric on them, not both.
Click to expand...

I did check them several times but I have been known to screw things up.:o

cg
 
Does the engine have compression? If not, the valves could be bent, thus not seating and large clearances.
 
Charlie G said:
... all of the valves were at least .102mm and the three largest were .178mm, .127mm , & .203mm.
Click to expand...

tkent02 said:
Too lose and they might spit out at high RPMs, I haven't ever seen it but I don't go over .1mm, usually aim for .08mm. Don't know how lose is actually dangerous.
Click to expand...
I just went out to the garage and measured a spare bucket. The recess in which the shim sits is roughly 2mm deep. I would think that it would take a clearance of just over half of that to allow one edge to lift 2mm, so there is no danger of spitting shims due to excessive clearance until you get over 1mm clearance.

I could be wrong (again :oops:), but that's the way I see it. :o

.
 
They spit shims at high enough RPMs even with the correct clearance. I would think any looser would make it happen at a more normal RPM?

Dunno, 3,000 over the red line on a 550 many many times and it never spit one.
 
Nessism said:
Does the engine have compression? If not, the valves could be bent, thus not seating and large clearances.
Click to expand...

I haven't gotten that far yet. The PO did mention the compression was low in one cylinder, I believe he said #4. The same one that had the 2 largest clearances. Thanks.

cg
 
If Art doesn't have them, let me know

I'd run a cold compression test and see what you've got

Then proceed to checking the low cylinder, if one exists
 
I'd verify compression. Those clearances are way off for some reason. Them being all on the same cylinder makes it even more suspicious. Bent valves may be a possible cause. How do the cam lobes look? Are there any signs of ware? I've seen poor top end lubrication issues cause excessive cam ware that would cause looseness.
 
Big T said:
If Art doesn't have them, let me know

I'd run a cold compression test and see what you've got

Then proceed to checking the low cylinder, if one exists
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer.

Makes me question, when gaps are that wide, whether I can trust the compression information. Only one way to know. Measure for myself. I'll get it adjusted a bit better and do a compression test. I did buy this bike from the original owner. Doesn't look neglected or abused. Thanks

cg
 
Hi Charlie, If you need different shims, we probably have them in the Shim Club stock. Send me an pm if you would like to join the group. Ray
 
smilar question

smilar question

I just rebuilt the top end on my gs850 new. New rings, honed cylinders, new gaskets. Valves were relapped seals replaced. Problem I'm having is I cant get cylinder 1/2 to fire. All yhe compressions seem very low. Does it take a while to.run the rings in or by grinding tue valves a bit did I raise the valve clearances enough to require smaller shims? I checked the clearances as per the manual. They all seem to have little or no clearance but my feeler only.goes as small as .003 mm. I'm thinking I may have to reduce most or all the shim sizes. Is there a kit I can buy or do I just have to play guess and match?
 
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