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Really messed up oil pan situation

  • Thread starter Thread starter bhm
  • Start date Start date
B

bhm

Guest
Yeah! Another new thread about stripped oil pan threads!
I'll make it short and snappy, in 15 steps, for you

1) Changing my oil
2) Placing the plug back in place carefully
3) plug turning loose
4) drips on the concrete
5) crawling the GSresources
6) buying oversized plug @ autozone:
picture.php

7) putting the thing back in.
8) Something's going wrong. Taking the plug back out
9) discovering this:
picture.php

broken helicoil from PO!
10) big hole in the pan where nothing fits...
11) Ordering new part with previewed delivery on Friday
12) Starting job again on Monday
13) Pan not there on Sunday
12) Going to home depot to buy CAP SCREW M16 1.5 x 40mm
and HEX NUT M16 1.5
Screwing it in place in like a Mofo
picture.php

13) Going to job very fine
14) Receiving the new pan Monday evening
15) Still alive. Will change oil pan and gasket along with oil, in 1500 miles.

Thank you guys and take care
 
I had some engine work done on my first Gs back in the 80's at a suzuki dealership.

I picked the bike up and got on the hwy, ten miles down the road I take off ramp.
At 50 MPH I go sideways and manage to not crash, I get stopped notice batch of oil. Oil plug came out, I got a new one at the dealer and complained about it coming out, at least they gave me the plug and oil.

Turns out the pan threads were stripped?? bought a new one.

After several GS's had to fix a couple pans,must be easy to strip threads or people over tighten them!
 
people over tighten them

This.

It's amazing how many "people" (I refuse to call them mechanics) whose motto is "the tighter, the better" when it comes to bolts. And then when they strip the threads out of the hole or break the bolt, they instinctively blame on the problem on "cheap import crap" instead of their own redneck practices.

Once you get used to using a torque wrench for tightening things, you become aware of just how little force is actually needed to seat them properly. And how narrow the proper torque range often is... those without superhuman dexterity are unlikely to get it right without the help of a torque wrench.
 
Just did my oil and used the torque wrench to apply 7 lbs of torque. That's all it needs, not 17, 27, 37 or more.
 
Fixing the drain plug on your oil pan is pretty simple to do. Since you have to take off the oil pan, take it to a bike shop or machine shop you trust, or do it your self and install a steel insert. That is how I fixed mine and it is pretty much for ever. No more worries about stripping again. Just make sure the insert has two slots cut into it once it is install (inside the pan), that way the oil will drain completely out (the bottom of the insert is flush on the outside of the pan where it will seal right.. With the steel insert, you just have to locate the proper new screw in plug with a copper crush washer and you're done. No need for a new pan.
 
You don't need superhuman powers, just to have screwed a few things up in your youth co as to understand the situation. That and to pay attention.
 
Just tighten till it's snug, then a tad more.
These bikes aren't harley's, the bolts won't rattle loose every 2,000 miles.
 
if you have to change the pan id advise a 2 ft length of 2x4 and a BFH. Some of those pans act like they are welded on and you really have to beat the snot out of each side until it breaks loose. Remove bolts & drop oil out first for best results. Several times Ive been afraid the block would break before the pan would come loose
 
My first car was a VW bug, in the VW's for dummy's book it said that when you tighten a bolt until the two ligiments in on the underside of your wrist start to poke out, that's about 6-12 Ft/lbs... which is plenty for an oil bolt (that and the fact I've been turning wrenches since I was 12). I've never stripped an oil bolt in anything I've ever done. Is this really a problem? I'm surprised by this.
 
My first car was a VW bug, in the VW's for dummy's book it said that when you tighten a bolt until the two ligiments in on the underside of your wrist start to poke out, that's about 6-12 Ft/lbs... which is plenty for an oil bolt (that and the fact I've been turning wrenches since I was 12). I've never stripped an oil bolt in anything I've ever done. Is this really a problem? I'm surprised by this.

the problem is the damage that was done by previous owners or on vehicles that has had a huge amount of oil changes...
bottom line is....shlt happen's sometimes which is out of a person's control.
soft threads is soft threads..

FYI
ever had a drain plug fall out?
bad deal from the stories i have been told.
better a little tight than a little loose.:evil:
 
Yeah! Another new thread about stripped oil pan threads!
I'll make it short and snappy, in 15 steps, for you

1) Changing my oil
2) Placing the plug back in place carefully
3) plug turning loose
4) drips on the concrete
5) crawling the GSresources
6) buying oversized plug @ autozone:
picture.php

7) putting the thing back in.
8) Something's going wrong. Taking the plug back out
9) discovering this:
picture.php

broken helicoil from PO!
10) big hole in the pan where nothing fits...
11) Ordering new part with previewed delivery on Friday
12) Starting job again on Monday
13) Pan not there on Sunday
12) Going to home depot to buy CAP SCREW M16 1.5 x 40mm
and HEX NUT M16 1.5
Screwing it in place in like a Mofo
picture.php

13) Going to job very fine
14) Receiving the new pan Monday evening
15) Still alive. Will change oil pan and gasket along with oil, in 1500 miles.

Thank you guys and take care

It looks to me like he was merely showing what was wrong and sharing how he handled it until he got the new pan. He hasn't posted since October of last year.
 
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