Rear Brake Pad Replacement-A Pictorial Guide

[BassCliff]

Greetings to my GS friends,

I know it seems a rather simple exercise, but I documented my recent rear brake pad replacement and created another guide to familiarize those who are new to wrenching on these classic bikes. I also added a manual for the Mikuni BS32SS carburetors for your downloading and saving pleasure.

As always, please feel free to check the guide for any glaring or dangerous errors so that I won't kill anybody while trying to help them. 8-[

Click here to go to my little BikeCliff website.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[hampshirehog]

A very nicely put together pictorial - even my wife could follow this I think!

It just might be worth adding that as you put the new pads in and have to squeeze back the pistons to do so, you run the risk of the master cylinder over flowing with brake fluid. It shouldn't happen if the cylinder hasn't been over filled but always worth checking as there's no surer way to ruin any paintwork.

 

[BassCliff]

Another pair of eyes

Another pair of eyes

Mr. hampshirehog,

Ah yes! I knew that brake fluid eats paint and should mention it. I'll put that in my next edit. Thanks!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[PAULYBOY]

Mr. hampshirehog,

Ah yes! I knew that brake fluid eats paint and should mention it. I'll put that in my next edit. Thanks!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Not only does it eat paint, but grease and grime also. Great for cleaning hands as long as you follow up with some liquid soap.

 

[tkent02]

You might also mention there is a break-in procedure for new pads. Slightly different procedure for each brand pads but basically get the pads hot by dragging the brake lightly for a few seconds, then hitting the brake fairly hard from about 50 or 60 mph down to about 10-20 mph, repeated several times. There is a lot of technical stuff going on about transferring a layer of pad material onto the disk, heat treating the friction material, etc. Makes the brakes last much longer and stop much better, keeps the brakes from getting that pulsating feeling we associate with "warped" rotors.
Read the directions with the brake pads you buy.
Especially important with car brakes too.

This article is about car brakes, but the same is true for bikes...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

 

[BassCliff]

More good stuff

More good stuff

You might also mention there is a break-in procedure for new pads. Slightly different procedure for each brand pads but basically get the pads hot by dragging the brake lightly for a few seconds, then hitting the brake fairly hard from about 50 or 60 mph down to about 10-20 mph, repeated several times. There is a lot of technical stuff going on about transferring a layer of pad material onto the disk, heat treating the friction material, etc. Makes the brakes last much longer and stop much better, keeps the brakes from getting that pulsating feeling we associate with "warped" rotors.
Read the directions with the brake pads you buy.
Especially important with car brakes too.

This article is about car brakes, but the same is true for bikes...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Mr. tkent02,

Thank you for this information. I will certainly give this procedure a try on my new pads and add this as an addendum in my next edit. This is good stuff. Thanks for helping to teach this young grasshopper.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Matchless]

Mr BassCliff,
Thanks for the pictorial. This is one of my pending jobs that I have been putting off, but it seems so easy now that the biggest job is just buying the new pads!

 

[Roostabunny]

Another great tutorial Basscliff, thanks!

I got a set of new pads from the PO with my bike and now I know what to do with them.

:-D

Cheers

 

[mriddle]

Exactly what he said .. except I have ordered them already

Thanks BassCliff for all your helpful contributions.

Mike

Mr BassCliff,
Thanks for the pictorial. This is one of my pending jobs that I have been putting off, but it seems so easy now that the biggest job is just buying the new pads!

 

[Guest]

Be careful pulling out the pins or the hold down springs go a-flying.
Don't ask me how I know. I spent a good couple of hours looking for them.

 

[Sparkster]

This is a general guideline to familiarize you with the procedure and is​

not meant to replace a Clymer, Haynes or Suzuki Shop Manual.

Man you should write your own service manual, screw those other guys. Too bad "Cliff Notes" is already taken...

Thanks for these guides. I have the '80 GS850 and it's very helpful. The closest I've ever come to changing my own oil is handing the guy at JiffyLube my Visa card. It was a piece of cake after reading your guide, though. Keep up the good work, you're gaining a fan club.

-Brandon

 

[BassCliff]

Teamwork!

Teamwork!

Greetings to my GS friends,

I know it seems a rather simple exercise, but I documented my recent rear brake pad replacement and created another guide to familiarize those who are new to wrenching on these classic bikes. I also added a manual for the Mikuni BS32SS carburetors for your downloading and saving pleasure.

As always, please feel free to check the guide for any glaring or dangerous errors so that I won't kill anybody while trying to help them. 8-[

Click here to go to my little BikeCliff website.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

I wanted to thank Ms. SqDancerLynn1, Mr. tkent02, Mr. hampshirehog, Mr. chef1366, and Mr. Steve for sharing their wisdom and expertise. I have added an addendum with all of your suggestions to make the pictorial guide a little more complete.

I'm thinking I'll take it apart again just so that I can do a better job this time. :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Steve]

I'm thinking I'll take it apart again just so that I can do a better job this time. :-D

Ladies and gentlemen, this is either a masochist or a seriously dedicated wrench monkey (with a camera). :shock:

THANKS, BASS CLIFF. \\/


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