Reasons my bike would go to twin mode

[timebombprod]

Disconnected charging system, I dont have that arcing anymore going on but my bike is basically on twin mode right now.

Cylinder 1 and 3 will steam no problem but 2 and 4 are not.

This would mean it most likely wouldnt be coilpacks but either the positive or negative side of things is not working correctly.


Went ahead and turned the bars side to side but nothing changed, but I guess it wouodnt seeing that I'm on twin mode and not running on all 4.

Other than a dyna ignition failing what could it be? Everything is connected securely.

Did the running stator test I get readings of about 85acv. Saw 90 but I'm guessing you want high readings not low


Was revving it to five and one cylinder (4) turned on but 2 didnt really. Gonna just prime it more and see if that makes a difference but I don't think it will.

 

[timebombprod]

Well heres something odd, I said 2 didnt wanna turn on but 4 did, now it's the opposite. 4 wont steam at all. 4 is the cylinder with a bit lower compression but not enough to mess anything up. Heres a video of the bike running today just 10 minutes ago.

I'm gonna swap 1 and 4s leads and see if anything changes.

https://youtu.be/78NGOnYQefo

 

[Killer2600]

What's the battery voltage at during this? If battery voltage is adequate this sounds like a fuel or mechanical issue. You mention lower compression, how much lower is lower? More than 10%?

 

[timebombprod]

Yeah its mechanical forsure. Swapped the plug caps and nothing changed, swapped the spark plug and nothing changed.

Cylinder 1-3 have 150psi, cylinder 4 is 140psi.

Where should I start?

Fuel does get to the cylinder the spark did have some wetness to it.

 

[Killer2600]

Where should I start?

Fuel does get to the cylinder the spark did have some wetness to it.

If cylinder #4 had good spark like the rest of the cylinders, the wetness would have me starting with the carbs. The wetness can be from too much fuel. Even with good spark, having too much fuel will cause no/poor ignition that will leave the plugs wet with fuel.

 

[earlfor]

Yeah its mechanical forsure. Swapped the plug caps and nothing changed, swapped the spark plug and nothing changed.

Cylinder 1-3 have 150psi, cylinder 4 is 140psi.

Where should I start?

Fuel does get to the cylinder the spark did have some wetness to it.

Viewed from sitting on the bike, the left coil plug wires are connected to cylinders 1 and 4. The right side coil wires go to cylinders 2 and 3. You have the leads correct?

 

[timebombprod]

Viewed from sitting on the bike, the left coil plug wires are connected to cylinders 1 and 4. The right side coil wires go to cylinders 2 and 3. You have the leads correct?

Yeah everything's correct, 4 just doesnt want to go. Swapped the leads around from 1 and 4 and swappeenthe work plug for one that surely works and nothing changed.

Lastnight I did a spray test on carb body 4 to make sure all circuits are clean and will operate properly, I dont know for sure if the pilot circuit was blocked at first but it definently is now. Gonna start up today and if in still running on 3 I'm gonna pull the plug cap off the spark plug just a bit in hopes of a better spark and an operating cylinder.

Fuel did get to the carb I just cant say if it got out.

 

[earlfor]

Yeah everything's correct, 4 just doesnt want to go. Swapped the leads around from 1 and 4 and swappeenthe work plug for one that surely works and nothing changed.

Lastnight I did a spray test on carb body 4 to make sure all circuits are clean and will operate properly, I dont know for sure if the pilot circuit was blocked at first but it definently is now. Gonna start up today and if in still running on 3 I'm gonna pull the plug cap off the spark plug just a bit in hopes of a better spark and an operating cylinder.

Fuel did get to the carb I just cant say if it got out.

Do not run the engine without the plug caps in place. The caps are 5k ohm resistance and that is required unless you want to fry your ignitor/ignition. What you do is check the resistance in your plug caps. should be around 5k ohms if they are good to go. More than that replace them. Less than that replace them.

 

[timebombprod]

Do not run the engine without the plug caps in place. The caps are 5k ohm resistance and that is required unless you want to fry your ignitor/ignition. What you do is check the resistance in your plug caps. should be around 5k ohms if they are good to go. More than that replace them. Less than that replace them.

No its be just a click off of being on there the full way, thatd be fine right because itd still make contact with the spark plug? One of them is about 5.7ohms but I thought thatd be fine.

 

[earlfor]

No its be just a click off of being on there the full way, thatd be fine right because itd still make contact with the spark plug? One of them is about 5.7ohms but I thought thatd be fine.

it's ok if the caps arent pushed completely down as long as there is good contact.

 

[timebombprod]

it's ok if the caps arent pushed completely down as long as there is good contact.

Okay, I'll be trying it soon. My freakin multimeter busted when I was trying to test the stator.


So I still have 3 cylinders operating as they should, and the fourth one still not. I did a spray test on the carb lastnight and everything was able to fully circuit through the body, I'm guessing it has to do with some weak spark or something.


I felt the header and it is hot but not hit enough to create steam. So I will try the plug cap trick.

My rev climb is gone.

When I tested the stator I was able to do two connections, one was reading 100acv at 5k and the other 85acv at 5k. I believe it was at 27acv at idle.

Is it shooting too high to be good?

 

[earlfor]

Okay, I'll be trying it soon. My freakin multimeter busted when I was trying to test the stator.


So I still have 3 cylinders operating as they should, and the fourth one still not. I did a spray test on the carb lastnight and everything was able to fully circuit through the body, I'm guessing it has to do with some weak spark or something.


I felt the header and it is hot but not hit enough to create steam. So I will try the plug cap trick.

My rev climb is gone.

When I tested the stator I was able to do two connections, one was reading 100acv at 5k and the other 85acv at 5k. I believe it was at 27acv at idle.

Is it shooting too high to be good?

The three legs should each be between 70 and 80v AC. all three legs have to be working properly for the system to charge normally. I would put a new stator on my list with those readings. The old one is probably the original anyway, so it doesn't owe you anything after 40 yers. lol If the stator isn't right, no R/R is going to work right.

 

[Killer2600]

The three legs should each be between 70 and 80v AC. all three legs have to be working properly for the system to charge normally. I would put a new stator on my list with those readings. The old one is probably the original anyway, so it doesn't owe you anything after 40 yers. lol If the stator isn't right, no R/R is going to work right.

You're going to have to work harder than giving him the standard forum replies. He's got a new Rick's stator and a new sh775 RR according to https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?261156-Well

Need to separate the charging issue from the running issue and focus on and fix one at a time. Even better if someone could assist him in person, a quick search shows this bike has been an on-going saga for quite some time.

 

[earlfor]

Yeah everything's correct, 4 just doesnt want to go. Swapped the leads around from 1 and 4 and swappeenthe work plug for one that surely works and nothing changed.

1 fires normal and 4 does not fire. I take it that means you swapped the 1 and 4 leads and 1 still fires normal and 4 still does not. Then there is nothing wrong with your coil, plug wires or plug caps. It is not an ignition problem.
Considering you have compression, it is not a valve adjustment problem..You have a carburetor problem or an induction problem. Have you installed new induction boot manifold O rings? They inset into a groove on the mating surface of the intake manifold/cylinder head junction. If you have not replaced them yet, I would replace all four. They too are probably 40 years old it is mandatory and they are about as pliable as concrete. They could be the primary reason for all your set up problems. After that, if the problem is still there, I would redo the #4 carb. Your problem is either the boot O rings or the carb.

And a vacuum carb synch is a MUST. Without one, it is going to run like CRAP no matter what else you do.
Do you know how to do one?

 

[timebombprod]

1 fires normal and 4 does not fire. I take it that means you swapped the 1 and 4 leads and 1 still fires normal and 4 still does not. Then there is nothing wrong with your coil, plug wires or plug caps. It is not an ignition problem.
Considering you have compression, it is not a valve adjustment problem..You have a carburetor problem or an induction problem. Have you installed new induction boot manifold O rings? They inset into a groove on the mating surface of the intake manifold/cylinder head junction. If you have not replaced them yet, I would replace all four. They too are probably 40 years old it is mandatory and they are about as pliable as concrete. They could be the primary reason for all your set up problems. After that, if the problem is still there, I would redo the #4 carb. Your problem is either the boot O rings or the carb.

And a vacuum carb synch is a MUST. Without one, it is going to run like CRAP no matter what else you do.
Do you know how to do one?

I have new intake boots and I checked carb 4 by doing a spray test and it was able to pass every spray through the carbs circuit, I guess I'll see if spraying compressed air/carb cleaner from the mixture hole will free anything out but it did pass the test.

I put a little oil in the spark plug hole trying to free anything that might be stuck just to see if it helps.

My multimeter busted right after one of those stator readings so I'm not sure if its accurate, when i did the test the day or two before I had 85acv on the configurations and at one time 90. I'm gonna get a new multimeter first.

I have the carbtune and i understand how the vacuum sync goes i must never done it

 

[earlfor]

I have new intake boots and I checked carb 4 by doing a spray test and it was able to pass every spray through the carbs circuit, I guess I'll see if spraying compressed air/carb cleaner from the mixture hole will free anything out but it did pass the test.

I put a little oil in the spark plug hole trying to free anything that might be stuck just to see if it helps.

My multimeter busted right after one of those stator readings so I'm not sure if its accurate, when i did the test the day or two before I had 85acv on the configurations and at one time 90. I'm gonna get a new multimeter first.

I have the carbtune and i understand how the vacuum sync goes i must never done it

Never spray carb cleaner into an assembled carb. It is only to be used to clean disassembled carbs when the rubber O rings and plastic parts have been removed. It dissolves O rings and plastic.

Do a vacuum synch on the carbs. You may not have induction with the way they now are. The Morgan will tell you if you do have flow and balance. There are three synch adjustment screws on the carb rack. Tell me what each screw does so that I know you know.

 

[timebombprod]

Never spray carb cleaner into an assembled carb. It is only to be used to clean disassembled carbs when the rubber O rings and plastic parts have been removed. It dissolves O rings and plastic.

Do a vacuum synch on the carbs. You may not have induction with the way they now are. The Morgan will tell you if you do have flow and balance. There are three synch adjustment screws on the carb rack. Tell me what each screw does so that I know you know.

I did disassemble anything in the pilot circuit but yeah I'll need to make sure my mixture screw o ring is good. And I'll get that reading on the carbtune

 

[timebombprod]

Olay so finally got to the full stator test, just testing acv against the legs I get readings of about 90acv at 5k on all legs. For the ground tests I get reading of about 50acv at 5k. Good or bad?

Havent yet to do carb sync but I had cylinder 4 showing steam, maybe it was because I was sitting at 5krpm alot or because I had oil down the cylinder hole to see if anything would free up but it was steaming. I'm gonna let it sit for a bit and then turn it on just to idle and see if I can get the same results from 4.

When the bike idles the acv for the legs is around 27-31acv

Update:it does not steam at idle but if I get some revs in it will start to, so time to get that carb off again. I'm gonna buy some compressed air and block the pilot air get off and spray from where ththe mixture screw usually sits in Hope's that whatever is blocking it gets out. And then I will hook the carbtune up after I wipe it down and see how the airflow is going.

 

[earlfor]

I did disassemble anything in the pilot circuit but yeah I'll need to make sure my mixture screw o ring is good. And I'll get that reading on the carbtune

I take it you have only sprayed here and there and NOT removed the carb rack and four carbs, completely disassembled them and soaked the metal parts in Berrymans to clean them before blowing them out, drying and installing new O rings, bowl gaskets, and setting float bowl tabs?? Or in other words, you have not cleaned the carbs.

 

[timebombprod]

I take it you have only sprayed here and there and NOT removed the carb rack and four carbs, completely disassembled them and soaked the metal parts in Berrymans to clean them before blowing them out, drying and installing new O rings, bowl gaskets, and setting float bowl tabs?? Or in other words, you have not cleaned the carbs.

No I removed the carb body from the rack they've been rebuilt very recently and were dipped and soaked in an ultrasonic cleaner. The float height was also set.

I just removed 4 from the rack this time knowing it's the only one causing an issue and went through all testing circuits. I'm gonna be getting at it again tonight but using compressed air to hopefully shoot out whatever is blocking the pilot circuit.