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Reasons my bike would go to twin mode

I surely will succeed! I have all the parts just gonna check a few things and then should be on the way to running, and then riding. Seeing my issues are very possible to deal with I should be done fairly quickly and easily.
 
You fix your ground fault yet? It aint gonna fix itself y'know. lol
 
earlfor said:
You fix your ground fault yet? It aint gonna fix itself y'know. lol
Click to expand...

I did move them but if you're talking about getting rid of the second ground for the battery I have not done that yet. What's really odd to me is that it doesnt show it on the OEM blueprint. I wonder why it was even added or if my battery connections are aftermarket or from a different bike.
 
Gonna test the main ground to ensure it's doing its job and remove that extra ground, aslong as it's just extra! I guess a second ground doesnt hurt but if the main tests fine I dont see why I'd need it.

Gonna have the regulator ground where the second battery ground was instead of the battery terminal to ensure if a problem happens that the only piece failing will be the only one damaged
 
The "extra" ground is ground reinforcement. It ensures other stuff have a good ground when the "main" ground is loaded up. During cranking is a time when the positive and negative cables will be loaded up - notice the positive cable also has the "extra" split off that occurs at the battery terminal and not at the other end (starter relay/solenoid) for the same reason.
 
timebombprod said:
I did move them but if you're talking about getting rid of the second ground for the battery I have not done that yet. What's really odd to me is that it doesnt show it on the OEM blueprint. I wonder why it was even added or if my battery connections are aftermarket or from a different bike.
Click to expand...

It was added by someone that doesn't understand the system. Grounds are a common loop. Only one battery ground to frame is needed. That is why the factory uses one.
 
Last edited:
killer2600 said:
the "extra" ground is ground reinforcement. It ensures other stuff have a good ground when the "main" ground is loaded up. During cranking is a time when the positive and negative cables will be loaded up - notice the positive cable also has the "extra" split off that occurs at the battery terminal and not at the other end (starter relay/solenoid) for the same reason.
Click to expand...


nope!.............
 
timebombprod said:
I did move them but if you're talking about getting rid of the second ground for the battery I have not done that yet. What's really odd to me is that it doesnt show it on the OEM blueprint. I wonder why it was even added or if my battery connections are aftermarket or from a different bike.
Click to expand...

Usually, the engineers that design wiring circuits know more about what is needed.
 
earlfor said:
Nope. You did.
Click to expand...

What are you like 5 years old?

Well please educate me and the rest of us, why is that extra ground there on the battery terminal? It's on all my bikes and trucks, seems like a stupid way to waste money if it serves no purpose.

One of these things is not like the others, one of these things requires a AA battery. The description details what the seller calls all three of these things https://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-set-3-pc-63612.html
 
Killer2600 said:
What are you like 5 years old?

Well please educate me and the rest of us, why is that extra ground there on the battery terminal? It's on all my bikes and trucks, seems like a stupid way to waste money if it serves no purpose.

One of these things is not like the others, one of these things requires a AA battery. The description details what the seller calls all three of these things https://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-set-3-pc-63612.html
Click to expand...


I have no interest in this silliness.
 
earlfor said:
I have no interest in this silliness.
Click to expand...

What you mean is you can't answer the question.

What's silly is to tell someone who can answer the question that they are wrong.

But it is true, your doubt in my skill set has no bearing on my expertise being useful to me.
 
Killer2600 said:
What you mean is you can't answer the question.

What's silly is to tell someone who can answer the question that they are wrong.

But it is true, your doubt in my skill set has no bearing on my expertise being useful to me.
Click to expand...


I said I have no interest in this conversation. Anything else is your imagination.
 
Deleted the secondary ground as the main one proves to be just fine. Gotta get my lazy @$$ to just hook it all up and start the bike.

Jeez what happened here lol. Dont care to intervene, glad I got the help I needed and glad I got a phone call to make the understanding easier.

Earl when I'm running I can make a good steak, even though steak is already good, you know what I mean!
 
timebombprod said:
Deleted the secondary ground as the main one proves to be just fine. Gotta get my lazy @$$ to just hook it all up and start the bike.

Jeez what happened here lol. Dont care to intervene, glad I got the help I needed and glad I got a phone call to make the understanding easier.

Earl when I'm running I can make a good steak, even though steak is already good, you know what I mean!
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan. heh Thanks
 
Well, I still dont have 4 cylinders operating at idle, but earlfors suggestion was nonetheless needed. He said my carbs need to be synced, which, they seriously did. The bubble for cylinder 4 was as high as it can go and the rest of the bubbles were close to the bottom, now they are all sitting right next to eachother, I definitely run smoother, my idle knob was able to be lowered, and theres not much else to sat, it's just alot smoother

Next I'll be swapping coil connections and seeing if the dead cylinder changes and after that if it doesnt I will have to figure out how to make sure fuel is in the cylinder, but I'll replace the spark plug before i check for fuel just to ensure it's nothing to do with the ignition.
 
timebombprod said:
Well, I still dont have 4 cylinders operating at idle, but earlfors suggestion was nonetheless needed. He said my carbs need to be synced, which, they seriously did. The bubble for cylinder 4 was as high as it can go and the rest of the bubbles were close to the bottom, now they are all sitting right next to eachother, I definitely run smoother, my idle knob was able to be lowered, and theres not much else to sat, it's just alot smoother

Next I'll be swapping coil connections and seeing if the dead cylinder changes and after that if it doesnt I will have to figure out how to make sure fuel is in the cylinder, but I'll replace the spark plug before i check for fuel just to ensure it's nothing to do with the ignition.
Click to expand...

What RPM did you sync the carbs at and what rpm are you idling at? What were the results of your coil swap?
 
Killer2600 said:
What RPM did you sync the carbs at and what rpm are you idling at? What were the results of your coil swap?
Click to expand...

They were sitting about 1200 rpm and that's usually my idlespeed but I try to have it closer to 1100.

Didnt do the coil swap, actually, a new spark plug did the trick.

While that's the best thing to have to be replaced, I kinda make myself look dumb doing all this to have to change a spark plug. The reason I didnt change it for a new one is because i swapped the plug leads and it didnt change the dead cylinder, but then i took another plug i had, grounded it to engine and checked for spark which it had, and put that one in the engine and it still didnt turn the cylinder on, so that's why it took so long to get a new one. I replaced the other 3 seeing as the old plugs were all in the same condition and I may even run a bit better when the other 3 are changed.
 
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