Rebuild your petcock

[Matchless]

Hi,
Finally my GS1000G petcock started dripping fuel slowly and I pulled it off. Here is a tutorial with pictures on how to fit a repair kit.

I have seen many posts on the replacement of the petcock and not using repair kits also from people who do not like the auto shutoff etc. I finally settled for rebuilding with a kit from Georgefix, good price, very low shipping costs and includes all the rubber parts.

Here is a tutorial I ran up if anyone else is interested: http://www.mediafire.com/?kgnloyyt1tq

Further below I have added some emergency repairs if you cannot get your hand on a new petcock or the repair kit and need to ride.


Edit: Updated tutorial with some testing guides

 

[Matchless]

Cheap/quick fixes or hacks!

Cheap/quick fixes or hacks!

In addition there are some cheap/quickfixes in case you need to ride while the parts are on order. NB: The tank needs to be empty before you do this!

1) Leak around tap. Remove the two screws and plate holding the tap lever. Remove the round open edged o-ring from the tap and wrap some plumbers PTFE tape in the circular slot. Replace the o-ring and this should be just enough to increase the outer circumference slightly when slipping it back over the tape.

2)Fix a leak between the petcock and the tank by removing the petcock and applying a light coat of HT silicon sealer over and under the rubber seal, as well as on the treads and head of the two fixing bolts.

3) Vacuum nipple blocked, remove back plate, try to blow and suck. Blow should be blocked and sucking should be easy. If blocked both ways try to release the blowback valve by spraying carb cleaner into the cavity or by soaking it overnight. Otherwise probe it with a toothpick to loosen it.

4) Diaphram broken - I know someone who replaced the diaphram with two he bought for an aftermarket car caburettor pump. He drilled out the flared rivet on the stem, cut the diaphrams to size, punched the holes, slipped them on and soldered the rivet in place and has been using it like that for quite a few years. ( Tin the rivet spot before fitting the new diaphrams so that less heat is used when soldering the final bit)

5) Tempory repair a hole in the diaphram. If the hole can be patched, degrease the spot carefully with alcohol or benzine and cut a small piece from a blue nitrile glove, put a very thin coat of silicon sealer around the hole and on one side of the new patch. Push it together firmly until it has dried, then apply a very thin coat of the silicon over the patch overlapping the edges by a few milimeters.

6) Fuel flowing slightly on RUN, but with no vacuum (engine not running) diaphram spring can be slightly stretched to inclease pressure when closed and o-ring can be replaced from a bearing and seal supplier as it may be hardened or worn. (4mm ID, 8mm OD, 2mm diameter)

There is no guarantee that any of these tips will always work, but they may help out if someone is stranded or cannot wait for new parts. Hope it helps someone though.

 

[2BRacing]

I finally settled for rebuilding with a kit from Georgefix, good price, very low shipping costs and includes all the rubber parts.

Here is a tutorial I ran up if anyone else is interested: http://www.mediafire.com/?yxyjemjzm3e

Hi Matchless

Nice tutorial there. Good to know decent kits can still be found. Please indicate procedure / cost to order from Georgefix.

Thanks
2BRacing

 

[Matchless]

I finally settled for rebuilding with a kit from Georgefix, good price, very low shipping costs and includes all the rubber parts.

Here is a tutorial I ran up if anyone else is interested: http://www.mediafire.com/?kgnloyyt1tq

Hi Matchless

Nice tutorial there. Good to know decent kits can still be found. Please indicate procedure / cost to order from Georgefix.

Thanks
2BRacing

Go to his ebay store at http://stores.ebay.com/GEORGEFIXS-MOTORCYCLE-PARTS
About $23 for the GS1000 kit and I had the USPS tracking number from him within about an hour after ordering on line.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

The kit works IF the petcock is still in usable condition, metal not coroded. If you have the one with the screwdrive slot-replace it

 

[Matchless]

The kit works IF the petcock is still in usable condition, metal not coroded. If you have the one with the screwdrive slot-replace it

Lynn,
You are right, any wear damage or corrosion and the new rubbers will not seal and the petcock needs to be replaced. I did mention it in the tutorial, but should of emphasised that a bit better.
Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Hammered]

This is good stuff. Ive been looking for a replacement for the one on my build. It turns and seals but is hard to operate and the peace of mind would be nice when it comes time to put this all back together.

 

[BassCliff]

Thanks Andre! Great stuff!


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
​

 

[Imreallycrazy]

Can anyone give me some pointers for a stuck petcock valve? Mine only has "Run" and a "Res" positions. I don't wanna force it and break an important part.

Thanks for all the help!

Ben

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Ben,

In your case, I would suggest getting a new one. If it's stuck it may not be rebuild-able.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[FunRide]

Pliers for stuck petcock.

Pliers for stuck petcock.

I had a pet cock that was stuck on my older GS450GAD. I could not move it so I took some pliers to it and it moved. It was just the rubber that was almost like glue. nothing broke just replaced with new rubber from Petcock kit. Mine was on run but it has Pri and Res also.

 

[Matchless]

With a stuck petcock the best would be to take it apart and see if the replaceable rubbers are the culprits or not. If you force it you may damage it beyond repair.

I have updated the tutorial to include a test guide without removing the tank if you suspect you petcock.

Find it here: http://www.mediafire.com/?kgnloyyt1tq