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Rebuilt Front end seems way to stiff,questions...

  • Thread starter Thread starter asbjones
  • Start date Start date
A

asbjones

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So I put a post up last week about some questions on removing the forks on my '85 GS1150es , I have it all back together and have a done a few test rides , I put Progressive springs , new seals and new oil , used the 2 inch spacers as listed in the progressive instructions, first test ride felt firm but aftre I took it out longer and on the highway it felt lilke I had a hardtail on my front end , the bike actually jumped on some quick bumps , I took out the 2 inch spacers and put in the originals spacers that are about 1 3/8 inches long , its alot better and feels safe , but seems like it could be even softer , I have my top prloads set at the softest and my bottom settings at the softest and no air , do I have to much oil in the forks ? I thought I fillled it right to where it comes up to the bottom of the spacer when un-loaded , or is it because my rear mono shock is practically dead and not doing its job ? any info would be awesome cause the shop I go to is closed today-Aaron in San Jose
 
Are the 2" spacers pvc pipe? I they are just cut them down to the size you want. If they aren't pvc pipe go buy some that are the approximate diameter of the fork springs. Most bikes need 3/4 to 1 inch preload. This includes the length of the threads of your fork caps. Measure the distance from the top of the washer that sits on the top of the fork spring (With springs in fork) to the top of the fork tube. Minus the length of the threads of the fork caps. Add one inch to that and that should be the length of your pvc spacer. You can adjust this for your confort and stability.
 
Sounds like your oil level is also way too high.

With the springs removed and the forks compressed all the way, the oil should not be higher than 140mm from the top of the tube. I don't know the actual correct oil level setting for your model, but it should be listed in your manual, or maybe someone will share that here. 140mm is the standard ballpark figure that Progressive uses to ensure you won't damage your fork and seals -- you have to have a certain amount of air space in the forks.
 
the first spacer I used was the pvc pipe that came with the springs cut at 2 inches, the ones I have in now are about 1 3/8 inches long figuring preload is about 1 inch , I filled the oil with nothing in the forks to 140mm or 5.5 inches down from the top of the fork , was I supposed to fill them with the springs inside ? I would say there is about an inch or less of air space inside now-
 
What weight of oil did you use?
Also I found with mine, that it took about a 1000 miles for the progressives to "break in".
After that time and 10 weight oil, mine are a lot more comfortable.
 
asbjones said:
<snip> I filled the oil with nothing in the forks to 140mm or 5.5 inches down from the top of the fork , was I supposed to fill them with the springs inside ? I would say there is about an inch or less of air space inside now-
Click to expand...

Not sure about this, but if I remember right, the progressive lit says "at least 5.5 inches" for the oil from the fork top. The progressives are also meatier than stock & may displace more oil in the fork. Measure w/o springs in & forks fully compressed.

My exp. is with a little 450, but you could try leaving more than 5.5" (I left 7"+ but I have the long L forks). As stated above, I found I had to give the new springs about 1000 mi or so to break in (seemed too stiff) & settled on 15wt oil.
Maybe a GS1150es owner w/same stuff can chime in...
Good luck.
 
I filled the forks with oil when they were not compressed and springs out , I either missed that part or its not in my book or the progessive instructions, I wonder how much oil I should take out now :???:
 
asbjones said:
I filled the forks with oil when they were not compressed and springs out , I either missed that part or its not in my book or the progessive instructions, I wonder how much oil I should take out now :???:
Click to expand...

Take the springs back out, compress the forks, and use a turkey baster to suck out the extra oil. Just don't let your wife catch you. :oops:
 
Yup - hydro-lock. Learned this one the hard way, myself.


Fork oil should be measured with the springs out and the fork fully compressed. The best way to do it is when the fork is off the bike, so you can hold the fork completely vertical when you're measuring the oil.



Just suck out as much oil as you can with a baster or veterinary nursing syringe with a bit of hose attached. I use a nursing syringe with a length of hose - cut the hose to match your required fluid level, overfill the fork, then suck the rest out using the syringe and hose. Repeat for each fork leg. Recap the legs, install them on the bike, then remove the caps and install the springs. It's a lot easier to install the springs once the legs are back on the bike. If you think your springs will displace more oil than the stockers, simply decrease the level of fluid a mm at a time until you find the right level.


Fork oil levels and weights are recommendations - it's okay to play with them until you find what works for your body/bike weight and riding style.



But trial-and-error is half the fun. :-D



-Q!
 
yep , gonna use my brake bleeder pump (cleaned out) and suck the fluid out , thats what I was thinkin; to much oil , gotta get a new/rebuilt rear mono shock next!
 
asbjones said:
yep , gonna use my brake bleeder pump (cleaned out) and suck the fluid out , thats what I was thinkin; to much oil , gotta get a new/rebuilt rear mono shock next!
Click to expand...



I hear you there. Check Ohlins, Penske, and Fox.

There are several companies that might be able to rebuild your stocker, too.



-Q!
 
left the forks on , sucked out a bunch of fluid , pushed down on the bars and the front dropped (kinda looked low and mean like that!) , made a few measurments on the fluid level , put everything back and now it feels great !
 
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