Doublecheck all your connections- follow the grounding recommendations. Check output with multimeter on day 1 and from time to time to be safe. Unfortunately, things can go wrong suddenly , so either consider an on board meter display or start to worry when signals no longer flash.
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V
ValorSolo
Guest
Can anyone identify this regulator?
It's on my GS750, but I don't think it's stock as the wires have been spliced.
It's on my GS750, but I don't think it's stock as the wires have been spliced.
M
Matchless
Guest
Not really possible to identify without the number on it, but physically its very small and could probably be off a smaller bike and could then also be of a low current handling capacity.
I would replace that just to be safe.
I would replace that just to be safe.
V
ValorSolo
Guest
Thanks. I'll replace it when I re-wire my bike in a couple months.
D
daturat100r
Guest
Just a question about r/r power handling .According to the suzuki workshop manual the alternator output is max 14amp so is it really necessary to go much higher than that with the r/r? Reall need to replace my charging setup as it getting to be a pain charging battery prior to use.
Basically, the early 1980's Shindengen R/R's seem to handle this 14 amp easily from a suzuki stator- many hondas of this era had bigger output stators , so Shindengen likely designed for them. You don't have to opt for a 30 amp R/R. I'm using one off a 1980 cx-500 - stable output and runs cool.
M
Matchless
Guest
Its advisable and more reliable, especially if you are replacing with a 20 or 30 year old unit. Running an electronic part at its maximum current rating can reduce your safety margin as the part may suffer a premature death!
N
Normk
Guest
Matchless, I keep reading your signature line but the correct quote is not, "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely doing nothing!"
The correct quote is: "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely my ex-wife."
Just thought you'd like to know,
Norm
The correct quote is: "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely my ex-wife."
Just thought you'd like to know,
Norm
M
Matchless
Guest
Matchless, I keep reading your signature line but the correct quote is not, "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely doing nothing!"
The correct quote is: "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely my ex-wife."
Just thought you'd like to know,
Norm
Ha, ha! Norm, it will most likely fit for some colleagues and bosses as well then!:clap:
C
Crazy_Russian
Guest
HAHAHAHA... now i know why im divorced 
N
Normk
Guest
Perhaps you should change your handle from "Crazy Russian" to "Happy Russian" ?
T
TooManyToys
Guest
H
hjacobmiller
Guest
A lot...of...really...technical stuff! I tried making sense of some of the earlier posts but I am not that electrically inclined. I think I need a new r/r for an 82 GS300. All of the replacement ones I have found are between $80 and $100. Is there one that is compatible that is cheaper that will work better or should I go with one that is specifically listed from somewhere like RMstator that is meant to replace the stock?
Any advice would greatly be appreciated as I am completely new to this!
Thanks and kudos for all of the technical information!
Any advice would greatly be appreciated as I am completely new to this!
Thanks and kudos for all of the technical information!
N
Normk
Guest
Electrical is a very simple field to comprehend but, like most things, has a fairly steep learning curve at the beginning. The thing about VRR units is that they can be adapted across a wide variety of applications as long as their capacity matches or exceeds the requirement.
Adapting the wires can appear to be daunting but one can deal with each wire pair individually so in practice the task is not very complex, so long as one knows what is to be done.
You will find that there are many here who are very knowledgeable, patient, and respectful that their small field of expertise does not make them better than others so just ask your questions. If you are referred to a listing such as that offered by TooManyToys and cannot comprehend, just ask and someone will likely help. The original poster may not wish to come forward unless really required because we all wear out but few will leave you high and dry if no other help is available.
HIH
Norm
Adapting the wires can appear to be daunting but one can deal with each wire pair individually so in practice the task is not very complex, so long as one knows what is to be done.
You will find that there are many here who are very knowledgeable, patient, and respectful that their small field of expertise does not make them better than others so just ask your questions. If you are referred to a listing such as that offered by TooManyToys and cannot comprehend, just ask and someone will likely help. The original poster may not wish to come forward unless really required because we all wear out but few will leave you high and dry if no other help is available.
HIH
Norm
G
gearhead13
Guest
I picked up a good honda shindengen R&R off ebay for ~$40. Much better and cheaper than the new stuff out there IMHO.
H
hjacobmiller
Guest
There is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.
Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
G
gearhead13
Guest
Well, first make sure he will take it back if it doesn't work. If he doesn't know how to check them himself then I would kinda wonder. Have you read the stator papers and have you been to Basscliffs site for how-tos? There are R&R tests there as well.
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff
Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&RHaven't been back since.
H
hjacobmiller
Guest
Well, first make sure he will take it back if it doesn't work. If he doesn't know how to check them himself then I would kinda wonder. Have you read the stator papers and have you been to Basscliffs site for how-tos? There are R&R tests there as well.
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff
Haven't been back since.
No he said he would test it but I wanted to know if there were any tests that I make sure he does or that I could do if he doesn't offer. I'm just skeptical of buying something from ebay because there is no way to test and I don't want to ship things back, I want to get on the road!!!
Does anyone have a working one they want to sell me?
O
old_skool
Guest
he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff
Haven't been back since.
One of our MC boneyards charges the same, sometimes he doesn't always know what the retail really is, but for the most part, way too expensive for used rusty parts.
N
Normk
Guest
It is generally more reliable to use a test light and 12 volt source to check rectifier diodes. Unless you have a meter which has a diode test function, checking can be hit and miss. Often the meter's applied voltage is lower than the forward bias voltage of the diode so will indicate an open circuit.
I always prefer to test components under actual operating conditions because any other test method assumes a direct relationship which may not be so.
As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.
The wrecker operator will not necessarily understand how to test all of the bike's components as he will have the knowledge/skill limitations which we all share. While most will attempt to help, it is incombent on the buyer to know what they need and to be able to assess condition.
The wrecker may appreciate a copy of the list in order to assist in helping others. I would in his circumstances.
"Load type" VRR units have two sections: rectifier & regulator.
These are generally tested separately and I think this is dealt with in the Stator Papers link. Don't recall for sure as don't need to use these kinds of references but have seen at least one very good appreciation of the subject on line and think it was this one.
You will need to test diode operation by checking forward and reverse diode action for each diode. As stated earlier a test light is a more reliable indicator than is a multi meter.
The voltage regulator is a more involved test which requires applying a variable voltage to the rectifier stage and monitoring the effect on the output. A temporary test rig can be made using a 12 volt and 6 volt battery although a variable voltage source is a more reliable test base.
It is difficult to beat the use of a known good alternator connected to a known good battery for testing as nothing beats actual conditions.
If you are close to one of the electrical types on this group, maybe you can have someone go with to help testing. Most of the wreckers I've dealt with are eager to learn if one approaches them with respect so you may make some brownie points by showing someone who does not know how to test.
HIH
Norm
I always prefer to test components under actual operating conditions because any other test method assumes a direct relationship which may not be so.
As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.
The wrecker operator will not necessarily understand how to test all of the bike's components as he will have the knowledge/skill limitations which we all share. While most will attempt to help, it is incombent on the buyer to know what they need and to be able to assess condition.
The wrecker may appreciate a copy of the list in order to assist in helping others. I would in his circumstances.
"Load type" VRR units have two sections: rectifier & regulator.
These are generally tested separately and I think this is dealt with in the Stator Papers link. Don't recall for sure as don't need to use these kinds of references but have seen at least one very good appreciation of the subject on line and think it was this one.
You will need to test diode operation by checking forward and reverse diode action for each diode. As stated earlier a test light is a more reliable indicator than is a multi meter.
The voltage regulator is a more involved test which requires applying a variable voltage to the rectifier stage and monitoring the effect on the output. A temporary test rig can be made using a 12 volt and 6 volt battery although a variable voltage source is a more reliable test base.
It is difficult to beat the use of a known good alternator connected to a known good battery for testing as nothing beats actual conditions.
If you are close to one of the electrical types on this group, maybe you can have someone go with to help testing. Most of the wreckers I've dealt with are eager to learn if one approaches them with respect so you may make some brownie points by showing someone who does not know how to test.
HIH
Norm
