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Reducing Handlebar Vibrations.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Darkstang
  • Start date Start date
D

Darkstang

Guest
I searched and only found info on different grips. I want to actually reduce the vibration. Vibration is not real bad, but after awhile it aggravates my carpal tunnel.

Someone recommended adding lead shot to the bars like a dead blow hammer. I also thought about filling them with Great Stuff foam??

Anyone tried anything like that to dampen out the vibrations?
 
I run a set of gel grips and have the stock bar end weights in (I have seen really BIG end weights 30-40mm in diameter) and use gell grip gloves. The vibes are greatly reduced, I still need to do a proper balance on the carbs, this is usually a big reason for vibration.
 
In reading recent posts, one member said valve adjustment cured a badly vibrating mirror on one side of his bike, another said going from 15wt fork oil to a more compliant 10wt fork oil eliminated wrist fatigue, so he could ride all day with no problem. I'm about to try the 10wt fork oil myself, I would like to forget about wrist pain.
 
In reading recent posts, one member said valve adjustment cured a badly vibrating mirror on one side of his bike, another said going from 15wt fork oil to a more compliant 10wt fork oil eliminated wrist fatigue, so he could ride all day with no problem. I'm about to try the 10wt fork oil myself, I would like to forget about wrist pain.
Yep, that would be me. :D

Valve adjustment will ensure that the engine can breathe the same amount of air in all the cylinders.
Carb sync will then ensure that the cylinders are allowed to breathe the same amount of air.
When all the cylinders are breathing the same, they make the same amount of power, which will smoothe out the power pulses.

By the way, filling your bars with foam won't do anything to reduce vibration. What you need is something with mass.
In other words, it has to be HEAVY.

About the fork oil viscosity: keep in mind that I changed the fork oil on my Wing for those results, but the principle remains the same. A lighter oil will allow the suspension to soak up the smaller irregularities that a heavier oil will transmit right through to the bars. If you are concerned about fork dive when braking with too-light fork oil, don't blame the oil, blame the springs. The spring rate will determine how much the fork will compress under braking. All the oil does is determine how quickly the fork will compress. I read an article once about a racing tuner that said you want to use the lightest oil that will do the job. Anything heavier will just "lock up" and transmit bumps to the rest of the bike, instead of letting the springs absorb them.

.
 
i've noticed a smoother ride after the valve shims and carb re-build, in the handlebars and on by caboose
 
Manic Salamander bar end weights FTW. :)

Filling the bars with silicone or lead shot does little to nothing, in my experience.

Also, make sure your bike is synced and running as smoothly as it can, of course. This has many other benefits besides.
 
I have a bar snake - not great in my opinion.

I have tried the Manic Salamander bar ends & they worked well on my G. Pricey though. They do help with vibrations over all rev range but there will still be one RPM where it will be worse than others (but it'll be different to the worst point now..)

Dan :)
 
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