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Removal of air screws for 1150 carbs???

  • Thread starter Thread starter wirelessguy
  • Start date Start date
W

wirelessguy

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Hi guys,

I learned something of a tough lesson in working on my 1100EZ carbs.

I ended up buying a used set of 1150 carb (the black ones) and hope they'll work OK on my bike once I swap out the jets I have in my 1100EZ.

I noticed that the asir screws on the 1150 are underneath some sort of cover. Do those guys pry off somehow or are the screw fixed in this model?

I'm trying to figure out how much needs disassembly before I go dipping the carb bodies.

Thanks.
 
Drill a hole in the center of the cap. Make sure to stop before hitting the screw. Put in a screw and pull it out.
Easy peasy
 
Also, if the mixture screws don't want to turn DON'T force them! You will need to get some penetrating oil in there to loosen the threads otherwise you will wreck the screws. This is one of the biggest reasons I bought my ultrasonic cleaner. I have pulled carbs off of bikes that have sat out in the weather for more than 20 years, run them through the cleaner & the screws come out like they were just installed! I have not damaged a single mixture screw since I bought it!!! Let me know if I can help you. Ray.
 
Some good advice from Ray and Chef (Bill)...

One other thing is to support the float post before driving the pin out, otherwise the post could snap off. Basscliff's site has details or I can send some photos later if necessary if you don't know what I'm talking about.
 
check this out if you still haven't: http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

You have to drill the plugs out. I've noticed using a bigger drill bit actually lifts the plug out of the hole for you and all you have to do is "unscrew" the plug off the drill bit. Careful though - as soon as the bit falls thru, STOP DRILLING. Good luck. :D
 
Nessism said:
One other thing is to support the float post before driving the pin out, otherwise the post could snap off.
Click to expand...

Yeah, don't learn the "hard way". :eek:

I use an automatic punch (found at AutoZone for $5) and while supporting the post with a small socket punch it about 4-5 times. After a certain point, the pin just pops out. When done, don't force the pin all the way in. Leave about 1 mm from the head of the pin to the post incase you ever have to take it apart again. :)
 
Mak said:
Yeah, don't learn the "hard way". :eek:

I use an automatic punch (found at AutoZone for $5) and while supporting the post with a small socket punch it about 4-5 times. :)
Click to expand...

Same way I do it! Never broke a post yet! Ray.
 
Another question...

Are the carbs physically different between the 1100EZ and the 1150?
I have a new set of jets I ordered for the 1100 that I'm now planning on putting into the 1150 set. Also, the number info on the needle jet is different. Do I leave the 1150 needle jet in or do I grab the one off the 1100 I had???

Thanks.
 
I would use the one's for the 1100. Some of the float pins have a shoulder like a nail. A pair of side cutters works. Just put the pin back in the same orentation, some pins have a taper
 
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