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Remove / replace rear wheel, GS1000G ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jon
  • Start date Start date
J

Jon

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I need to change tyres on my new GS1000G. The problem with the back tyre is getting the wheel out without disturbing the right hand shock and without taking the exhaust system off.

I don;t want to touch the right hand shock because the thread on the stud is poor, and although the nut is nipped up plenty tight enough right now, I doubt it will unscrew and screw back up again without stripping. So, I want to leave the upper right hand shock fixing undisturbed.

I don;t want to touch the exhaust because of all the tales about exhaust bolts snapping and having to be drilled out etc. It still has the stock exhaust, in really good condition with no popping or banging on the overrun etc, so I really don;t want to disturb it unless really necessary.

So, my question is, can I get the wheel spindle out with the upper right hand shock and the whole exhaust system left undisturbed? Is there enough space to get the lower right hand shock off its stud, if the exhaust is levered outward a bit? Or is this too risky?

Anyone with any experience on this? Thanks.
 
I think you'll have to repair that stud, unless you can get the shock off the lower stud by removing the muffler mount screw and swinging the muffler away. You should arrange support for the muffler first, of course, because there's no other mounting until you get to the head. If you can get off the lower stud doing that, I think you'll be able to tie the shock up out of the way far enough to raise the swing arm and take the axle out over the mufflers as usual.

Repairing the stud would require filing or maybe rough-sanding the remaining threads off (to ?8 or a little less) and run a die over the stud to re-thread it as M8. Then you'll need a new nut and a washer for the new threads.
 
First thing I did with mine was trim the absurdly long rear mudguard to allow the wheel to come out past it. Never a problem since,and it's only that ridiculous piece of plastic that necessitates taking any thing else off to provide enough clearance. The 1000 chainies may be different, but the 1000G is likely the same.
The worst bike I had for that was an XS750, the manual of which stated that a special hoist tool must be used to lift the swingarm back up after the shocks had been removed. Fer gawd's sake, what a palaver.
 
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Dogma said:
I think you'll have to repair that stud, unless you can get the shock off the lower stud by removing the muffler mount screw and swinging the muffler away. You should arrange support for the muffler first, of course, because there's no other mounting until you get to the head. If you can get off the lower stud doing that, I think you'll be able to tie the shock up out of the way far enough to raise the swing arm and take the axle out over the mufflers as usual.

Repairing the stud would require filing or maybe rough-sanding the remaining threads off (to ?8 or a little less) and run a die over the stud to re-thread it as M8. Then you'll need a new nut and a washer for the new threads.
Click to expand...

Your stud repair is exactly what I'd thought of - filing the 10mm threaded section carefully to whatever the diameter is to start an 8mm die. Or maybe there's an imperial thread diameter a tad closer? I'll check that. At least doing the filing shouldn't be a problem, given how soft the steel seems to be.

For now though, I'll have a go at getting the lower shock eye off its stud. I hope there won;t be any need to cut the mudguard - the bike can be lifted a little, so once the spindle is out, I'm hoping the rest will be simple.

EDIT: Just checked and the core diameter of SI 10mm 60* angle thread (which I hope is what I've got here), is 8.05mm. This means I need do no more than file the remaining threads down until they're only just no longer visible - so keeping it round and concentric should be a lot simpler than I was expecting. Maybe I'll just go ahead and fix it...
 
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One problem I can see with cutting a new 8mm thread on the stud, is that there isn't clearance to turn a die holder 360*. Could be a stumbling block but there must be solutions to this?
 
Jon said:
Your stud repair is exactly what I'd thought of - filing the 10mm threaded section carefully to whatever the diameter is to start an 8mm die. Or maybe there's an imperial thread diameter a tad closer? I'll check that. At least doing the filing shouldn't be a problem, given how soft the steel seems to be.

For now though, I'll have a go at getting the lower shock eye off its stud. I hope there won;t be any need to cut the mudguard - the bike can be lifted a little, so once the spindle is out, I'm hoping the rest will be simple.

EDIT: Just checked and the core diameter of SI 10mm 60* angle thread (which I hope is what I've got here), is 8.05mm. This means I need do no more than file the remaining threads down until they're only just no longer visible - so keeping it round and concentric should be a lot simpler than I was expecting. Maybe I'll just go ahead and fix it...
Click to expand...

To get the wheel out of mine without savaging the fender (I hate carving on the bike if I don't need to), I put the bike on the center stand on top of a plank. The board we call a 2x6 here in the States isn't really 2 inches thick. More like 45 mm and that's more than enough lift to get the wheel out after the axle is out.

Jon said:
One problem I can see with cutting a new 8mm thread on the stud, is that there isn't clearance to turn a die holder 360*. Could be a stumbling block but there must be solutions to this?
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of that. Do you have sockets large enough? I suppose you could use an adjustable wrench if you had to. It'll just be that much harder to get it started straight.
 
Removing about 1/2" from the right hand side of the rear guard isn't exactly savaging it - more a modification to rectify the factory shortcomings.
 
Dogma said:
To get the wheel out of mine without savaging the fender (I hate carving on the bike if I don't need to), I put the bike on the center stand on top of a plank. The board we call a 2x6 here in the States isn't really 2 inches thick. More like 45 mm and that's more than enough lift to get the wheel out after the axle is out.



I hadn't thought of that. Do you have sockets large enough? I suppose you could use an adjustable wrench if you had to. It'll just be that much harder to get it started straight.
Click to expand...

I don't think gaining clearance from the mudguard to get the wheel out will be much of a problem - the bike's in a well equipped workshop and can easily be raised. My issue is getting the wheel spindle out, while leaving the right-hand rear shock in place at the top.

I've been doing a bit of Googling and all I can find is die nuts, which aren't really intended for cutting new threads (more for use as thread cleaners). But maybe - if I can get it started nice and square - it could work? The problem with that approach is, if it doesn't start square or wanders off, that's my last chance gone.

The thing in the way of turning a diestock is the seat lock bracket. I suppose this could be cut off and welded back on again.

Another idea I've had is to cut the 10mm section of stud flush with the 12mm shoulder, find the centre and drill a holle for and 8mm stud. That is, if the tap is long enough to turn past the seat catch...

Alternatively, I could drill an 8mm hole right through and use a high tensile bolt. Maybe with a special thin nut to lock it against the shoulder instead of the stack of washers?
 
The proper way to fix these studs is with a shoulder bolt. I've outlined the process here:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?234704-Rear-shock-mounting-problems

This honestly ain't that hard, and it's a lot more reliable than trying to file a chewed up stud until it's round again and the correct diameter to use a die without breakage... Or maybe you're some sort of ninja with a file.

If you really don't have the time, a better last-ditch-nothing-to-lose tactic might be to use a 3/8 inch die. 3/8" is about 9.5mm, so it might be able to bit into a worn out 10mm stud.

I would not drill a hole through the remaining stud on your bike. A threaded 8mm hole would only leave about 2mm of material on either side.
 
bwringer said:
I would not drill a hole through the remaining stud on your bike. A threaded 8mm hole would only leave about 2mm of material on either side.
Click to expand...

Actually, that would leave you about 2mm of material MINUS the depth of the threads that you might cut into it. :-k

.
 
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