Removing and mounting tires

[Billy Ricks]

Thanks, I would like to see it. I have broken beads before. I can weld up a bead breaker to make things easier.

I just think that $35 a tire is too much money to spend. Considering I have four to do it should be cost effective. I am assuming the parts stores carry wheel weights.

Allen

Most tire shops will give you the stick on type if you go in and act like you want to buy a few strips.

 

[katoranger]

That was next thought. Thanks, Allen

 

[Joe Nardy]

Thanks, I would like to see it. I have broken beads before. I can weld up a bead breaker to make things easier.

I just think that $35 a tire is too much money to spend. Considering I have four to do it should be cost effective. I am assuming the parts stores carry wheel weights.

Allen

At $35 a tire you only have to do three yourself to get a free top-notch tire. I found a lifetime supply of stick-on weights at Pep Boys for around $15. I'll send you some for free if you decide to do this yourself. I can also post some pics of my home-made tools. They aren't pretty but they certainly do the job. We had a little tire changing party at my house a few weeks ago and did ten tires in less than eight hours. We had everyone do all the steps involved as a learning experience so it took longer than if someone who had done it many times (me) did them. I did one set in about 40 minutes with someone else removing and installing them on the bike There are a couple of techniques you need to know that make it much easier.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[katoranger]

Joe, I would like the pictures. I am sure I can get some weights locally. There are plenty of parts stores around.

I see myself replacing alot of tires so being able to do it at home will save me alot of money in the long term.

The local shops are expensive.

Allen

 

[Joe Nardy]

Joe, I would like the pictures. I am sure I can get some weights locally. There are plenty of parts stores around.

I see myself replacing alot of tires so being able to do it at home will save me alot of money in the long term.

The local shops are expensive.

Allen

Allen,

Here ya go..........Prepare to be underwhelmed. None of this stuff is pretty but it is functional. First is a simple square made from 2X4s:

Make sure it is big enough that the largest brake rotor you have will fit in the middle and also large enough that your largest diameter wheel/tire will rest on the corners. I use this rather than a car wheel or bucket and work on the floor. I find it helpful to be able to kneel on the tire to help work it off and on the wheel.

Next, here's my bead breaker:

I use black pipe fixtures mounted under my workbench. I can use different lengths of pipe for different wheel widths. The idea is to put the wheel/tire on the 2x4 square, then put the point of the vertical 2x4 on the tire as close to the rim as possible. Stand on the opposite side of the wheel and push down on the horizontal 2x4 to break the bead. Use a lot of slippery stuff; I use dishwashing liquid and water.


Here are my balancing stands:

They're just 4x4s with 1x2s for a base. I mounted some rollerblade bearings on steel plates and attached them to the 4x4s:

I just square them up with a long straight edge and place the wheel and/or tire on the bearings using the bike's axle. I have found that probably half the wheels I do have wheel bearings loose enough that the wheel bearings spin on the axle rather than the axle spinning on the roller blade bearings. This tells me that simply using jack stands will work about as well. I like to do something differently than what everyone says. There will most likely be a red or yellow painted dot on the new tire (some manufacturers have stopped doing this). The dot is the light spot of the tire. The standard routine is to mount the tire with the dot placed at the valve stem on the wheel. This assumes the valve stem is the heavy spot on the wheel. Since it is best to have as little weight as possible on the wheel, I put the wheel on the balance stand with all old weights removed and the valve stem and cap in place. Let it settle and mark the bottom point. This is the true heavy spot. Surprisingly it usually is NOT at the valve stem. Mount the tire with the dot at the true heavy spot and then balance the assembly. If you're using stick-on weights you want the spot where they're mounted to be as clean as possible. I use a Scotchbrite pad and then alcohol to clean the rim.

Good luck and let me know if I can be of further help,
Joe

 

[Billy Ricks]

Joe,
Your bead breaker is similar to what I built except I have my ram mounted to the base so it's all one piece. If I get a chance I'll take a pic. I like your balancing stands. All I've ever done is put mine back on the axle without the spacers, etc. I may build a set like yours though.

 

[moto_dan]

Good setup Joe! I like your KISS solutions. Same principle as my method but yours is more refined. :-D I just can't make myself pay to have my tires changed.

 

[katoranger]

Thanks for those pictures. I can make all of the that. I plan to find the heavy spot of the wheel before mounting the tire. I just notice the front wheel of my radian had alot of weight on it.

 

[JayH]

If you have Chen Shing tires on your rims it will be JUST LIKE changing the tire on your bicycle. Thanks goodness most of the tubeless/tube type tires for sale now have much stiffer sidewalls.

I've got brand new tires on the 750L and the T needs a new rear. How hard is it to remove tires and mount them on new wheels? I've never done it on anything harder than a bicycle.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[katoranger]

I have some Pirellis that I will be using. The sidewalls are pretty stiff, but I think getting the 26 year old tires off will be pretty easy.

Allen

 

[bwringer]

Joe, I REALLY like that balancer setup! The arrangement of the small bearings would work with any size axle. Simple and clean, but I never thought of that.

There's just enough drag in my bike's wheel bearings that I'm still not really sure that I have the front wheel balanced correctly.