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Removing the allen bolt on front forks

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShirleySerious
  • Start date Start date
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ShirleySerious

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While riding my 78 GS550E the other day, I noticed oil leaking down my front forks. I asked around and found that it was a busted oil seal. I'm waiting for the seal to come in at the shop on special order, but in the meantime, I'm trying to practice taking them apart so I don't get stumped when it's time to change it.

My question is, to change the oil seal, do I need to remove the allen bolts on the bottom, or just the screw cap on the top? I tried taking the allen bolts off, but it's almost impossible to do by just holding it. The Clymer manual says I need an "impact tool" (not sure what that is) or some special holding bracket. I don't wanna have to go through all that trouble if I don't even have to take them off.
 
Kinda confusing what he said. Do I even have to take the allen bolts off at all if I'm just changing the seals?
 
You will have to remove the entire fork tube to change the seal. As long as you are at it, you might as well change both. It is not an easy task, but well worth it when you are done.
 
I have two allen bolts on the bottom, so I hope we're talking about the same thing.
 
ShirleySerious said:
I have two allen bolts on the bottom, so I hope we're talking about the same thing.
Click to expand...

#15 has to come out. It's an allen head bolt.

SU0090_036.gif
 
If you search on my name you'll see a post about using a craftsman socket reversed with some extensions to hold the damper rod on the inside, then you don't need the impact wrench. I think Renobruce posted it maybe.

Dan :)
 
Couldn't find it. I might have to ask a friend to hold it for me.
 
Sounds silly, but put the lower tube in the vice, wrapped to protect it; use a broom stick and insert into the tube, and have your friend push the broom stick against the top of the damper rod...hard. You use the allen head socket or allen wrench to loosen that bolt (#15 in the diagram posted above).

I did it, and worked fine. While it was apart, I found a bolt that had a head that fit perfectly into the top of the damper rod, and then had my brother custom weld a t-handle tool with that bolt at the end. Voila! Damper rod tool!! Good luck, and hope I was of assistance.....:-D
 
I got the broom trick to work ONE time, then I made a 'proper' tool to use the next time. At the hardware store, I got a pice of 5/8" all-thread rod about 2 feet long, and 4 nuts to fit it. These nuts take a 15/16" wrench, which is real close to 24mm. Jam 2 nuts on one end of the all-thread and the other two nuts on the other end. Insert one end into the forks, use a wrench on the nuts that are still outside the tube to hold everything steady, undo the bolt in the bottom of the tube.

If you need something smaller, a 1/2" rod uses a 3/4" wrench (19mm).

A good hardware store might even have metric all-thread, so matching sizes would be easier. If you need a size that is in-between, use the next size larger and grind a little off each face of the nuts at one end.


.
 
I'm hearing conflicting things. I'm told I have to undo the allen bolts to get inside, but I also have to use extensions which I use when it's open. Meh. The broom trick doesn't work, the handle is too thick to fit in the hole. I tried using an extension but that sucker won't move.

Is there any way I can get the seal changed without taking off the allen bolts without making any custom tools or using an air compressor?
 
Cassius086 said:
I did it, and worked fine. While it was apart, I found a bolt that had a head that fit perfectly into the top of the damper rod, and then had my brother custom weld a t-handle tool with that bolt at the end. Voila! Damper rod tool!! Good luck, and hope I was of assistance.....:-D
Click to expand...

What you need is the equivalent of an 19mm or 3/4" allen wrench. The top end of a 5/8" spark plug wrench with some extensions will work as mentioned as well as a piece of 1/2" threaded ready rod 18" long with two nuts jammed together on each end. If you don't have a vice try loosening or removing the allen nut before you take the fork tubes out of the triple clamps.
 
Hi Shirley,

I'll try and make it simple. I had trouble with this too.

Step 1: Have an allen wrench/bit holding the socket on the bottom of the fork.

Step 2: For this one, you need a long enough rod to reach the bottom of the inside of the fork, with each end having a 19mm bolt on it.

I luckily went to the dealer, and the service man welded me one on the spot! Suzuki has a "special" tool, but its like 40 bucks.....

Step 3: While holding one of the hexbolts/allen bits , loosen them.


Step 4: once loosened, the bits inside the fork should slide out. you can pop the seal retaining clip out with a screw driver. getting it back in is a bit of a pain, but not hard.

clean up the inside with kerosene before you change it all up.

make sure you tighten the bolts to the proper torque value, or real tight if you dont have a torque wrench.



Hope this helped!



POOT

I'm not sure if there is an easier way. I tried to use an upside down spark-plug socket (the small one) but I didnt have enough sections.
 
I found a bolt

I found a bolt

Steve said:
I got the broom trick to work ONE time, then I made a 'proper' tool to use the next time. At the hardware store, I got a pice of 5/8" all-thread rod about 2 feet long, and 4 nuts to fit it. These nuts take a 15/16" wrench, which is real close to 24mm. Jam 2 nuts on one end of the all-thread and the other two nuts on the other end. Insert one end into the forks, use a wrench on the nuts that are still outside the tube to hold everything steady, undo the bolt in the bottom of the tube.

If you need something smaller, a 1/2" rod uses a 3/4" wrench (19mm).

A good hardware store might even have metric all-thread, so matching sizes would be easier. If you need a size that is in-between, use the next size larger and grind a little off each face of the nuts at one end.


.
Click to expand...
Instead of threaded rod, I found a long galvanized bolt at Home Depot. I forget the size but Steve is on track. Jammed two nuts on the end and spun out the allen bolt. Cost about $3.00.
 
It sounds like it could be simple, but I just can't make a mental image of what the tool would look like. Anyone have a picture?
 
It's looks like a huge long bolt with two nuts on the end.... Go get a bolt & put 2 nuts on it lock them together, now imagine it with a 19mm head & about 18" long.

There's your tool.

Dan :D
 
the tool is nice but usally not needed, (if you have a impact wrench) and a good allen bit that fits to a socket wrench.

if you have a impact wrench just remove the whole fork from the bike with the spring still installed inside. (the installed sping will provide the needed pressure to keep the dampning rod it is screwed into from turning)

next take a propane torch and heat that allen bolt up so it get pretty hot, hopefully by getting it hot you will burn/break what ever thread sealant suzki has used.

after you get the bolt nice and hot take the impact wrench with allen bit to the screw and try to unscrew it. the wrench should have enough inertia to break the screw loose while the spring is holding the damping rod still.

just be carefull not to over do it with the impact wrench those allen bolts are pretty soft and can strip pretty easy, thats why the heat helps get things loose.

but don't worry if you do strip the allen bolts all is not lost, with patients and several drill bits you can drill the head of the allen screw off, and once the head is off the tube slides right out and the remaining bolt should unscrew by hand. that happend to me only once and apprently the sealent had glued the head into place because once i drilled the head out and got the tubes seperated i could unscrew it with my hand. thats why i recomend the heat, they can be tough.

-ryan
 
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