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replaced blown fuse now wont start

  • Thread starter Thread starter xxspikexx
  • Start date Start date
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xxspikexx

Guest
1980 GS850GT, coil relay mod, accel ignition coils, stock everything else

i went threw alot of stop and go traffic yesterday and right when it let up everything went dead.. got into the shoulder and checked the fuses headlight and the main were blown. replaced the fuses and noticed the neutral light and the gear lights were not lighting. thought no biggie the bulbs are good.. mhm. tried starting and ya nothing.. turned the key off and POP.. im guessing there is a open circuit that is closed when the ignition is turned off. there is no other spark otherwise although a buddy of mine while testing the leads to the plugs gave me a good shock. bastard.. anyway.. The coil relay looks as far as connections wiring harness looks good no exposed areas to ground out although the ignition connection in the headlight looks a bit warped im getting all flustered.. any ideas guys?
 
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ok i was just reading the ignition system test papers from matchless and at this time suspect the igniter unit (was previously replaced with a used one)as for the neutral/gear lights still blank
 
Hi,

Have you checked your charging system via The Stator Papers? Have you gone through your entire wiring harness (from headlight bucket to tail light), checking and cleaning every connection and ground, including the fusebox? Your bike will love you for it. :)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Blowing the fuse when you turn the ign off could be a sign the regulator is bad. Try disconnecting the reg to see if the fuse still blows
 
well i finally had time to go to the bike and look at it. igniter is toast, the fuse box is partially melted at the headlamp fuse, connections still good though. now this would be my second igniter in a year (not new) and with the fuses popping semi frequently im suspecting the RR might be a bit wonky or on its way out causing inconsistency's in the voltage and cooking my bits. still cant figure out the gear/neutral lights and why they aren't working. couldn't get the cover off stripped screws. but the harness and all the other connections look good.
 
blown fuse

blown fuse

I had a loose screw in kill swich top, grounded on the handle bar, cooked a coil tnen blwe a fuse.
 
xxspikexx said:
well i finally had time to go to the bike and look at it. igniter is toast, the fuse box is partially melted at the headlamp fuse, connections still good though. now this would be my second igniter in a year (not new) and with the fuses popping semi frequently im suspecting the RR might be a bit wonky or on its way out causing inconsistency's in the voltage and cooking my bits. still cant figure out the gear/neutral lights and why they aren't working. couldn't get the cover off stripped screws. but the harness and all the other connections look good.
Click to expand...

Actually, a malfunctioning R/R can't cause enough voltage fluctuation to ruin the ignitor. It can raise the voltage enough to cause the battery to gas a lot, "boiling" it dry eventually. It can also cause your lights to burn out a good bit faster. But the battery absorbs enough of the overvoltage to limit it to 15, 16, or maybe 17 volts. That is too low to hurt the ignitor.

Something that CAN hurt the ignitor is the main fuse blowing.
(or intermittent opens (bad connections) in the harness that could have the same effect if they are in the right (wrong) place)

When the main fuse blows, the battery is disconnected from the rest of the bike.
If the bike was running when the fuse blew, then the generator and R/R were providing power; and the bike may continue to run, using the output of the R/R to run the ignition.
The output of the R/R will be a series of pulses, which the battery normally helps smooth out. (this is true even for a properly working R/R)
Unfortunately without the battery smoothirg them, these pulses may reach a MUCH higher voltage, ruining the ignitor.
 
bakalorz said:
When the main fuse blows, the battery is disconnected from the rest of the bike.
If the bike was running when the fuse blew, then the generator and R/R were providing power; and the bike may continue to run, using the output of the R/R to run the ignition.
The output of the R/R will be a series of pulses, which the battery normally helps smooth out. (this is true even for a properly working R/R)
Unfortunately without the battery smoothing them, these pulses may reach a MUCH higher voltage, ruining the ignitor.
Click to expand...


going off that theory it was most likely the fuse or a bad/intermittent connection:-s. ehh the r/r is already ordered as well as the used igniter. cant hurt since i dunno if or when the last was replaced:p if i can get it home im gonna update the fusebox and solder and insulate alot of my connections that dont need connectors
 
Since you already have an igniter coming ? Next time get a dyna ignition
 
well parts finally arrived. took a trip to the bike, replaced the igniter dident touch the r/r cause it was previously replaced and coulden't make heads or tales of it at that moment. it started up, got 10 miles down the road on the way home and it started to sound weird and lost torque. another 5 miles down the road and it was done... no fuses blown this time, battery was charged via the stator. but ya no spark and i tested the igniter when i replaced it, and now no spark... the r/r that is on it is i believe the honda r/r
looks similar to the one thats shown on the stator papers however the "sense" wire was not connected and was trimmed short. my friend who is kind enough to let me keep it there said you are an idiot for not replacing the r/r. so i dunno if its just bad luck with the used igniter or if i really should go kick this bike into traffic...:mad:
 
i havent the faintest the bike is 60 miles away but it is larger than the oem and larger than the one from Ricks.. lmao and as if it hels the brand name started with an sh...

ok i had someone over there look at it "Shindenger Japan SH230-12 0.2
 
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xxspikexx said:
... the r/r that is on it is i believe the honda r/r looks similar to the one thats shown on the stator papers however the "sense" wire was not connected and was trimmed short.
Click to expand...

If the sense wire was not connected it is possible that your battery was being overcharged.
 
battery seems fine not very hot and the readings at idle are good. could the sig. gen be putting out too much and cooking the igniter? when i tested the resistance was smack in the middle of spec..
 
ok after 2 beers and a phone call i found somewhat consistences with the 3 toasted igniters. if you have it off the bike and you are looking at the circuit board on 2 of them the gray barrel resistors are burnt which lead to the wires for the coils, and the other igniter the lead wires to the coils are melted.. (orange/white, black/white) but that was over the phone, dunno 100% thats what he was looking at.
 
You may want to look at your coils. Are they OEM or aftermarket?
They may be the wrong coils and drawing more current or failing when hot.
 
i have the accel super coil kit that dennis kirk sells rated 3ohms and im running the relay mod to them.
 
ok i just got a pair of igniters. now on the r/r the wires from the stator it dosent matter how they are connected? cause im looking at my diagram and one goes to a connector than to the r/r is that really necessary or can i just wire it directly?
 
ok new r/r and new/used igniter... no spark.. checked the resistance of the coils and i got 4ohm's couldn't get a reading threw the plug wires.. there is only 2 parts left to replace... Coils & Relay... well it looks like im going with dyna green coils
 
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