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Replacement air inlets for syncing?

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
littleroot said:
But if nothing else at least I will have brass adapters instead of the plastic ones which came with the carbtune.
Click to expand...
For about half the money, get this adapter set and install them only when you want to sync the carbs.

Yes, it's still the hassle of installing them every time, but they are brass and don't have caps that will blow off. :o

.
 
i got to admit, i used to have the permanent adapters fitted with 1+4 & 2+3 joined together. it did smooth out the idle a bit but i got fed up with the pipes popping off.

you really need barbed adapters and tight clamps to avoid this happening
 
I was way off on the clamp size. My memory for things like that is shot. I would estimate 3mm would be about perfect on the Z1 parts. My clamps weren't very tight so I replaced them with 4" black nylon cable tie locks. They won't be coming off or leaking until they are cut off.
 
OldVet66 said:
I was way off on the clamp size. My memory for things like that is shot. I would estimate 3mm would be about perfect on the Z1 parts. My clamps weren't very tight so I replaced them with 4" black nylon cable tie locks. They won't be coming off or leaking until they are cut off.
Click to expand...

i think you mean 8mm... 5mm adapter + 5mm i/d pipe,say 1.5mm wall thickness = 8mm diameter clamp size
 
I'm thinking I'm having a bad day. The 8mm spring steel clamps I have may have stretched out when I put them on, they weren't tight enough at all for the 4mm silicon vacuum line I have on the Z1 adapters. Perhaps the double wire stainless steel spring clamps would work better because there is not a lot of room from the flair to the nut on the adapter to get good compression on the line. The silicon line really compresses a lot more than the regular vacuum line, so I believe a smaller spring clamp will be necessary. I'll get a bag of assorted double wire spring clamps some day and figure it out. Right now the tie lock is one size fits all. It is only about 3mm wide so it fits nicely between the flair and the nut and does a real nice job. Boost controller.com recommends 3mm clamps for 3mm, 3.5mm and 4mm ID vacuum line (I'm assuming they are talking abut silicon vacuum line).
 
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OldVet66 said:
I'm thinking I'm having a bad day. The 8mm spring steel clamps I have may have stretched out when I put them on, they weren't tight enough at all for the 4mm silicon vacuum line I have on the Z1 adapters. Perhaps the double wire stainless steel spring clamps would work better because there is not a lot of room from the flair to the nut on the adapter to get good compression on the line. The silicon line really compresses a lot more than the regular vacuum line, so I believe a smaller spring clamp will be necessary. I'll get a bag of assorted double wire spring clamps some day and figure it out. Right now the tie lock is one size fits all. It is only about 3mm wide so it fits nicely between the flair and the nut and does a real nice job.
Click to expand...

i got some of these the other day..........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290674237...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

the 7.35-8.3mm clips are perfect for silicon pipe on the overflow tubes
 
That's the type of clamp that would work, do you think they would be tight enough for the silicon line when it gets real squishy from the heat up near the motor?
 
Silicone tubing is not compatible with gasoline or gasoline vapor. It's not necessarily softening from the heat,; it's softening from exposure to gasoline.

If you're going to install tubing here, you should use tubing that's actually heat and fuel resistant.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5034kac/=lyjxb9


Like Steve, I've also tried leaving adapters installed, but I've also found that it can be hard to keep the caps in place. They seem to deteriorate rapidly.

I used to have a Kawasaki that had capped fittings on the intakes, and found that the caps required replacement every few years.

Screws are much more reliable.
 
I have no doubt the fuel is affecting the silicon line I am using, but these lines are into the second year of service and aside from getting a little loose at the barb they are in good shape. I will continue to look for a better hose, but so far Napa 4MM silicon vacuum line is far superior to any other type of line I have used and also easily replaceable. In this case it appears to be the amount of time and fuel involved. I have spares in my tool kit and am dogging these lines to see just how long they will last. The more standard rubber vacuum line fails rapidly. This looks like it might be the right stuff: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?products_id=300
 
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Make sure you get the 5MM adapters, It had been so long ago that I ordered mine, that I forgot that they carry two sizes.
 
nejeff said:
I had no idea these were available! I'll be placing my order ASAP. I own too damn many GS's now and this looks like a real time saver! On my XS1100 it had the ports already in the boot and it was so much quicker and easier to sync the carbs but as has been said before a good clamp is needed to keep the cap on
Click to expand...

why are people so concerned about "saving time" when it comes to synching carbs? it takes about 10 minutes to fit the adapters when needed and its not like you have to do it every day!!!!!! :confused:
 
Agemax said:
why are people so concerned about "saving time" when it comes to synching carbs? it takes about 10 minutes to fit the adapters when needed and its not like you have to do it every day!!!!!! :confused:
Click to expand...

Well because it's an intelligent thing to do. I have no problems getting the screws out but I have struggled getting them back in many times with my not so nimble fingers. Too me this is a no brainer, purchase has been made!
 
nejeff said:
Well because it's an intelligent thing to do. I have no problems getting the screws out but I have struggled getting them back in many times with my not so nimble fingers. Too me this is a no brainer, purchase has been made!
Click to expand...

if you swap them to allen head bolts, removal and refitting is so much easier, but just think what you could do in that extra 10 minutes you save once a year, roll a spliff maybe?......:-\\\
 
Tom had changed them to hex so removing is no problem. It was just getting in the little plastic adapters which came with the carbtune which was the problem.

Lots of good suggestions here - good thread!

Thanks,
-Bob
 
I got my Turboboost vacuum line today for connecting 1-4 and 2-3. It's 4MM ID and 10MM OD. It's some pretty impressive stuff, supposed to withstand something like 75lbs without a clamp without blowing off. Looks like it's going to be the long term solution. It's getting clamps anyway because of the short Z1 adapters. I also found a link for better high heat caps. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...&McMMainWidth=1070&sesnextrep=354344087987953
 
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OldVet66 said:
I got my Turboboost vacuum line today for connecting 1-4 and 2-3. It's 4MM ID and 10MM OD. It's some pretty impressive stuff, supposed to withstand something like 75lbs without a clamp without blowing off. Looks like it's going to be the long term solution. It's getting clamps anyway because of the short Z1 adapters. I also found a link for better high heat caps. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...&McMMainWidth=1070&sesnextrep=354344087987953
Click to expand...

Is this the same stuff?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4mm-ID-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Turbo-Boost-Controllers-/281074018561#vi-content
 
Another good reason to stay with the stock setup:

Another good reason to stay with the stock setup:

Another good reason to stay with the stock setup:

Motion Pro junk

2013-03-31163220-1_zps67dd74cf.jpg


I was able to get out the rest of it out of the manifold with an easy out by hand. JUNK!
 
littleroot said:
Another good reason to stay with the stock setup:

Motion Pro junk

2013-03-31163220-1_zps67dd74cf.jpg


I was able to get out the rest of it out of the manifold with an easy out by hand. JUNK!
Click to expand...
Is that the same one from Z1? If it is I'm going to be bummed out :(
 
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