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Anonymous
Guest
I have read the procedure in the FSM and it looks like I could do it. Anyone have any hints for me?
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Anonymous
Guest
Yes, read the procedure several times, until you think you can do it without looking at the book. Then use the book, and keep a checklist of steps. You don't want to forget anything. This is a pretty easy job, but safety issues come to mind.
1. Make darned sure you put the exact same amount of oil into both legs. This is even more important than putting the correct amount in. Uneven oil puts stress on the front axle, and the studs that hold the axle retainers. I once screwwed this up on a Goldwing and ended up stranded on the side of the road with a stud pulled out of the lower leg.
2. Make sure you have all of the tools needed before you take the first bolt out.
Tim
1. Make darned sure you put the exact same amount of oil into both legs. This is even more important than putting the correct amount in. Uneven oil puts stress on the front axle, and the studs that hold the axle retainers. I once screwwed this up on a Goldwing and ended up stranded on the side of the road with a stud pulled out of the lower leg.
2. Make sure you have all of the tools needed before you take the first bolt out.
Tim
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Anonymous
Guest
Speaking of the right tools. The factory service manual shows using a number of "special" tools (read more income from the dealer channel).
Anyway, are these really necessary? Or will common sense offer an acceptable alternative from the typical tool box?
Anyway, are these really necessary? Or will common sense offer an acceptable alternative from the typical tool box?
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saaz
Guest
Special tools are not really needed. Circlip pliers are cheap and good to have for all sorts of reasons. In order to undo the bottom bolt holding the damping rod I used a few extensiond on my ratchet with (I think from memory) a 19mm wheel nut in the socket that was long enought to stick out from the socket, and inserted this inside the fork leg. Worked fine.
pjackson said:
Sometimes, yes. I know for example in the manual for my 1981 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup it says to use a "special tool" (even gave the GM part #) to remove the large nuts holding the rear drums on. Just for yucks I went to the dealer and the parts guy said it was unavailable. I asked one of the "Authorized GM Mechanics" if he had the tool and he said they never use it, a big punch and hammer will do the trick. So much for your "special tools". :?
As for your situation, ask the guys that actually do it, and they might give you some help. 8)
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SqDancerLynn1
Guest
You can also use a 5/8 spark plug socket (outer hex portion) with extension to sub for the factory tool to hold the internals while you remove the bottom allen bolt.
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saaz
Guest
Although I must say the special valve depressing tool for changing the shims would be a good investment...should have bought one 22 years ago when I bought the GS and they were relatively inexpensive....luckily one the valvetrain beds in changing shims is rare.
