Resto-Mod 1979 GS750L

[Starboard M]

I picked this '79 GS750L up a couple weeks ago in the attempt to DD something that gets better gas mileage than a Jeep, and something to have fun with on the weekends.

I will be turning it into a stock mod/ cafe racer over the next couple of months/years. I know, another L bites the dust.



A little about Starboard M:
My background is mainly in Jeeps. Ive built several Cherokees over the last couple of years, one being a trailered semi street legal monstrosity, and another being my current daily driver that is basically stock.

I used to live in California and had a rather large tool collection (aka my dads tools), had my own welder, and had access to tube benders, plasma cutters, dimple dies, TIG welders and a lot of good friends who were just as good or better than myself with fabrication and wrenching.
I now live in Colorado in an apartment with almost no tools, and friends that have never really done much wrenching or fabrication.


I am semi competent at fabrication, but I am honestly not all that good at diagnosing and repairing engine related issues. I enjoy making something than figuring out why an engine doesnt run.
Enough about me though, it sounds like Im trying to get a date



The bike:
This bike looks 10x better in pictures than it does in real life. It came to me with a questionable background, ****ty pod filters, and a really crummy paint job. Looks good from afar, but far from good.
It idled at ~2k rpms, but other than that seems to be in decent mechanical shape. (I may have jinxed myself by saying that though. )

First day after I bought it

Rode it a couple times, and decided that I needed to do some work on it before I actually started to ride it very much. Since I dont know much about bikes, I will be trying to do things in steps. Meaning fix one thing, then ride the bike and figure out whats next. Its also starting to get warmer and I want to be ridding this summer and not rebuilding a bike.


Step one was get a nice before picture of me sitting on the GS. At 6'2'' I didnt quite feel right on the bike. I have a bad back, and the stance was just horrible. After 5 minutes my back would go numb. Dont laugh to much.

Next I installed some Superbike bars, and removed the "L" sissy bar, and rear fender.

This also shows how little tools I have to work with. A set of sockets, a ratchet, hammer, and a couple screw drivers.

The eagle eyed viewers might also notice the missing carbs from the above pictures. Due to the information on this site I will be replacing the intake boot orings, and rejetting the carbs to work with my pod filters.



Plans
Like anything, they change over time, but for now they are:
-SS brake lines
-15w shock oil+ progressive springs in the front
-Shorter clutch cable
-New grips
-Install boot orings
-Rejet and rebuild carbs
-Remove as much as possible while still retaining necessities
-Remount rear light, turn signals and license plate
-Repaint tank and plastics
-New petcock (looks like its a 44mm spacing, I think Im going to go with a universal non vacuum one for simplicity and less money)
-Replace tach cable

Im currently trying to figure out what settings I need to do for my carbs, and have them half way dissembled in my living room.

-Matt

 

[Go Mifune]

looks good. although I dont mind the rear fender. I did remove the sissy bar on mine however.

 

[Redneck]

Personally I kept my sissy bar but I am PCing it black to blend in with the bike. I like its functionality when moving it around in the garage. I pivot the bike on the center-stand and swing it into position. But if Cafe racer is the eventual goal then it goes away anyway. Nice starting point like your plan. I on the other hand went for all or nothing and am currently going crazy watching everyone else ride and knowing mine is in the garage... well actually all over the garage. Good luck and welcome if you got Basscliff's mega welcome there is a big right up on rebuilding carbs and I believe one of them is on a 750.

Paul

 

[Starboard M]

I figure I may as well clutter up my build thread than start a new thread every time I have a simple question.

Question of the day:
When taking apart the carbs to clean them, I read somewhere that you shouldnt take the fuel tees off the carbs since I have the ones that are not replaceable. But everywhere I read say you need to take the carbs apart to clean them, soooooo?

I found this via the search, and it seems that if I have a leaking issue teflon tape will help, but is there a better way?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=147521

 

[Starboard M]

Got a chance to work on the bike some more.

First up, I got an impact driver due to the recomendations of this site, but I couldnt get it to fit between the frame and the boots, so I used the screw part and a 8mm combination wrench. Worked perfect on screws that a typical screwdriver was just stripping.

Clutch cable that needs to either be rerouted or replaced with a shorter one.

Engine number. Posted mainly for my reference, but also have a question. Is the engine number supposed to match the VIN number?

Better profile picture without my goofy self on it.

What the rear frame looks like without the fender on. Trying to figure out an easy way to mount a plate and light on there.

Figured out why my tach didnt work. Is this part replaceable? Its the engine side, and it looks like it was sheered off

 

[Starboard M]

Hmmm, do these Orings look ok?

Pancaked Orings.

Carbs taken apart into a pile of parts. I was questioning why people recommended cleaning them, especially since the outside was so clean. Inside is NASTY.

Tomorrow I will be taking the gas tank to work and wire wheeling the 3+ paint jobs off of it, calling Z1 for carb stuff, and buying some cleaner for the carbs.

 

[Redneck]

Can't speak for the carb cleaning thing, I have yet to attempt that, next week possibly. The orings though, are they still pliable, feel soft or are there some rough spots and stiffness. If they are stiff or have rough spots that may indicate tears or beginning of rot I would replace them. Trust me I understand the short fund issue, but if your going to do it might as well do it right, which generally means since you don't know how old they are I would replace them. Just my 2 cents. BTW what part of Colorado you in... we have a few memebers in that area also.

Paul

 

[Starboard M]

Can't speak for the carb cleaning thing, I have yet to attempt that, next week possibly. The orings though, are they still pliable, feel soft or are there some rough spots and stiffness. If they are stiff or have rough spots that may indicate tears or beginning of rot I would replace them. Trust me I understand the short fund issue, but if your going to do it might as well do it right, which generally means since you don't know how old they are I would replace them. Just my 2 cents. BTW what part of Colorado you in... we have a few memebers in that area also.

Paul

I have Robert Barrs Orings sitting on my counter waiting to be installed, as well as his carb rebuild Orings hopefully coming tomorrow.


Im in Denver. Seems like most are either north of me, or south of me. Oh well, Ill meet some eventually.

 

[zeebob]

I'm fairly new at this...

I'm fairly new at this...

but I highly recommend that you use this link and follow all the basic steps to getting your older GS
roadworthy and dependable

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

regards
Z

 

[tkent02]

Hey, what part of Colorado are you in? I have a fairly well equipped shop at least for the simpler things. Bring it over and we can see what it needs. Shorter cables are available. A smaller better looking rear fender would look good with the new seat. If you are too tall for the L, you can have the seat reshaped to give some sliding back room, also rearset pegs work a lot better with short bars than the forward pegs on the L. Looks like a great project.

 

[Starboard M]

but I highly recommend that you use this link and follow all the basic steps to getting your older GS
roadworthy and dependable

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

regards
Z

I actually found his website from google before I stumbled upon GS Resource. I used his write ups to understand how the bike works, change the oil, and taking the carbs apart.

Hey, what part of Colorado are you in? I have a fairly well equipped shop at least for the simpler things. Bring it over and we can see what it needs. Shorter cables are available. A smaller better looking rear fender would look good with the new seat. If you are too tall for the L, you can have the seat reshaped to give some sliding back room, also rearset pegs work a lot better with short bars than the forward pegs on the L. Looks like a great project.

Im in south Denver. Seems most are either near the Springs, or up in FoCo.


One of these days when I get the bike running I would love to ride up to South Park. There is apparently a pretty nice ride coming from Denver up that way.

 

[Starboard M]

Got some work done to the bike. Stripped the tank of its 3+ paint jobs it had previously.

Painted it with a couple coats of primmer, paint, and engine enamel clear coat. Hopefully it holds up and looks alright on the bike.


I received my APE pods today, they fit and look awesome. My Z1 petcock and float bowl gaskets. Hopefully rebuild all the carbs tomorrow night, and install them later this week when it stops raining and snowing.


I think Ill be chopping rear fender up to mount my tail light and plate. I would like to move the plate to the left side, but I havent been able to find a lit plate holder I like. Also need to find some better turn signals, but that can wait till I get the bike running.

 

[fullmetalone]

post up pics of the new tank. What jets are you going to use with the pod filters? tough luck with the tools, that is a huge pet peeve for me, not having the right tool for the job. but it happens to me alot.

 

[Redneck]

If you are adding pods make sure you verify the jetting on your carbs matches that is recommended by the Pods or else you will have a hum dinger of a time keeping it running right. Several people have pods on their bikes so do some searching and you should find all the answers you need.

Paul

 

[DanTheMan]

The picture you have of the tach driver

isn't the problem with your tach. That isn't broken, that's normal. You need a new cable. Buy one locally or one from Z1, they're about $18.00. Contact Tkent, he's closer to you than you think, he's near South Park, doesn't live in South Park. He has all the tools and stuff and he can help you out, even though he hates Ls to death, he'll lower his standards to help another GSR member.
South Denver? On the east or the west side of I-25? Like I said, you may be closer than you think. Valve Shims need to be addressed as well. Contact Ghostgs1, he can help you out there. Since you have BassCliff's site already, all those things he says need to be done really do.
Welcome to the forum, by the way.

 

[tkent02]

He has all the tools and stuff and he can help you out, even though he hates Ls to death, he'll lower his standards to help another GSR member.

Anyone who gets rid of most of the L pieces this quickly is OK in my book. I'd be happy to help de-L the rest of it.

 

[Starboard M]

If you are adding pods make sure you verify the jetting on your carbs matches that is recommended by the Pods or else you will have a hum dinger of a time keeping it running right. Several people have pods on their bikes so do some searching and you should find all the answers you need.

Paul

Bike came with pods when I bought it, so I had no choice but to go with pods. I ditched the ill fitting no name pods it came with and bought some APE ones. Much better quality that actually fit right!

I didnt find much info on people rejetting with pods and stock exhaust on the 750s. I posted up as well, and no one really gave much feedback. I also found that my '79 had an unusual combo on it.

I figured Ill just raise the needles one notch, and see how it runs. The bike somehow mannaged to run fairly well with air and fuel screws all over the place so with them being the same it should purrrrrrrrr.


Once its running Ill have a better idea of what I need to do.

The picture you have of the tach driver isn't the problem with your tach. That isn't broken, that's normal. You need a new cable. Buy one locally or one from Z1, they're about $18.00. Contact Tkent, he's closer to you than you think, he's near South Park, doesn't live in South Park. He has all the tools and stuff and he can help you out, even though he hates Ls to death, he'll lower his standards to help another GSR member.
South Denver? On the east or the west side of I-25? Like I said, you may be closer than you think. Valve Shims need to be addressed as well. Contact Ghostgs1, he can help you out there. Since you have BassCliff's site already, all those things he says need to be done really do.
Welcome to the forum, by the way.

Interesting, Ill have to take a closer look at the cable. I think Im going to order some throttle cables, so Ill get a tach while Im at it.

Im in the DTC, west side of 25.

Anyone who gets rid of most of the L pieces this quickly is OK in my book. I'd be happy to help de-L the rest of it.

How close to SP are you? Hit me up back channel if you dont want to post specifics.

I wouldnt mind some experience when I decide I should tackle the valves.






I got the carbs half way rebuilt yesterday and today only to get stopped by a stripped bolt on the throttle linkage. I found this out after the hardware stores closed for the night, so Ill continue tomorrow morning.

Tomorrows plan:
1. Go get bolt, and finish carb assembly.
2. Install carbs on bike
3. Final mount gas tank and new petcock
4. See if it starts
5. Reinstall rear fender and lights so I can be legal. Ill redo them at a later date after Ive actually ridden the bike.
6. I think the battery might be on its last legs, so I unfortunately might have to go buy some jumper cables to get it started.
7. Go for a ride?


Im a slow worker, so I might only get past #1, but we shall see.

 

[Starboard M]

I got the carbs half way rebuilt yesterday and today only to get stopped by a stripped bolt on the throttle linkage. I found this out after the hardware stores closed for the night, so Ill continue tomorrow morning.

Tomorrows plan:
1. Go get bolt, and finish carb assembly.
2. Install carbs on bike
3. Final mount gas tank and new petcock
4. See if it starts
5. Reinstall rear fender and lights so I can be legal. Ill redo them at a later date after Ive actually ridden the bike.
6. I think the battery might be on its last legs, so I unfortunately might have to go buy some jumper cables to get it started.
7. Go for a ride?


Im a slow worker, so I might only get past #1, but we shall see.

Got some work done today. Finished putting the carbs together and out of the living room.

Also installed the universal petcock with a little massaging, and it seems to not be leaking.

Got the carbs, tank and lights mounted as well, went to install the fuel line, and realized it was now to short.
Bought some more line only to drive back in the rain, so I had to stop for the day.


The color I chose looks horrible though. It looked good on the tank while I was painting it, but on the bike it looks more battle ship gray than a good kind of gray.
I will live with it for now, but I need to find another color eventually. Sucks putting a lot of effort into painting something (really my first time trying to do nice paint work) only to have the color look horrible.




So now Im sitting inside rewatching the second season of Top Gear. :lol:

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I like cafe's so I'll be following this one .

 

[Starboard M]

Got everything buttoned up, got the bike to start and it actually runs. Like I said before, the paint looks horrible, but I will live with it for now.


Next issues are the bike seems to bog on WOT, and the #1 carb leaks when the bike is on the kickstand. Carbs will be coming off sometime this week and I will redo the floats.

Bike also seems to be running a bit hot. Its ~60* here and in only a 15 minute ride with mostly 30mph cruising the crank case gets super hot. Doesnt seem normal to me, but I have never had a air cooled anything before (other than an old B&S powered mini bike when I was 7) so I dont know if thats considered to be normal operating temp. Quick search seemed to be a 220* temp as normal, and I dont think this is. Not sure how to tell though.


Rear end is also wallowy, and Im thinking a new rear tire is in order. I think a 110 or 120 rear Pirelli Sport Demon and a 100 front will work nicely.


Anyway, onto the picture, since I know no one read anything I wrote! And how can I blame you.

The 'ol battleship has come to berth at my apartment