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Reved in Neutral, dropped into 1st on its own!

GabrielGoes

GabrielGoes

Forum Mentor
Hey guys i started my bike again after a long run, clutch is adjusted nicely in all areas. so i threw a couple revs while it was in neutral.. out of no where it dropped into first and lurched fowards and shut off!, it happened twice.. didnt happen again though.. are my gears/dogs going? heres my thought, i think cause after such a long ride (1 hour) the thin oil 5w-30 got so thin the clutch couldnt handle it or something and it just dropped into gear. i had to use this oil cause i had nothing else and it was sort of an emergency...
 
My bet is that you have a bent shift fork. It has nothing to do with oil viscosity or your clutch IMO. You need to get this sorted before it happens to you while sitting at a busy intersection.

Sounds just like how I would do a clutch-less downshift. Pre-load the shifter and then blip the throttle. Viola, downshift! I believe that a bent shift fork could be pre-loading the gear, and when you give it some revs, it slides into gear.
 
dang, how in the world do u bend a shift fork? looking at the OEM diagram of my bike it seems all i would have to do is take off the sprocket cover... would i be able to bend it back? or should i just get another one off someone...
 
Jeeze this does scare me, i dont wanna have to do a major tear down... infact i'd rather just get another motor... noooo! there goes the summer
 
Just one question. :-k

WHY IN THE
censored.gif
DID YOU DO THIS?
GabrielGoes said:
... i think cause after such a long ride (1 hour) the thin oil 5w-30 got so thin the clutch couldnt handle it ...
Click to expand...
Unless you are staying above the Arctic Circle, there is absolutely NO call for 5w-30 oil.
noway.gif


It did not need to get hot after a long ride, it was too thin to start with.

I think it was dropping itself into gear to get away to someone that would treat it right. :oops:

And I won't even mention that the 5w-30 WILL have that dreaded "Energy Conserving" stamp on the back. :rolleyes:

.
 
I have a nice tight complete 750 bottom end with a known good transmission if you want to pop your top end on it, let me know.
 
You cannot rebend a fork, it must be replaced.
It is a major job. You can do it without removing the top end; I intend to do it on my GPz. I have to pull the engine, turn it upside down, and remove the secondary shaft in order to pull the transmission out the bottom. It is probably similar on a GS.
 
It's NOT a major job. Pulling & re-installing the engine is the most work. After the motor is out I can do it in less than 2 hours, split cases, change forks, clean, reassemble cases. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
It's NOT a major job. Pulling & re-installing the engine is the most work. After the motor is out I can do it in less than 2 hours, split cases, change forks, clean, reassemble cases. Ray.
Click to expand...
And how many times have you done it, Ray? And pulling the engine is not major? I'm just saying, for a first time job, it is not like changing the plugs.
GabrielGoes, obviously it depends on your experience. For example, I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my 97 TransAm. In order to do this, I had to pull all the front parts off the engine (hoses, belt, fans, water pump, distributor), unbolt the motor mounts, jack the engine up, remove the starter, remove the pan, replace the gasket, and put it all back together. Because I have worked on it so many times it took me less than one day. For a newbie, it is a 3-4 day job at best.
 
rapidray said:
It's NOT a major job. Pulling & re-installing the engine is the most work. After the motor is out I can do it in less than 2 hours, split cases, change forks, clean, reassemble cases. Ray.
Click to expand...
You can do it without removing the motor. GabrialGoes has a 78 GS750. They don't have the big web in the bottom of the cases. You can do it through the oil pan like a Z1 motor. I cut the web out of the bottom of my GS1100 drag race motors so I can do the same, especially with the auto trans. Dar
 
First job for me would be to dump that 5-30w oil & put some 15-40 Rotella diesel oil in & try it....

Might do nothing but it's a 20min job & $20 so worth a try. :)
 
IMO, for one just dont rev it in neutral:rolleyes:
And second put some decent oil in there, maybe it goes away.
That sewing machine oil is not made for these engines. I find it hard to believe that you could bend a shift fork with normal riding, you would have to be extremely hard on it. I know how hard I run mine;) and never messed up the tranny.
 
thats awesome news TeamDar... i mean for worst case scenario... lol how would u even go about flipping that motor upside down anyways? i guess you could just jack the bike up... oh and yes i am kicking the oil now... hope fully that does it..
 
Hope the oil does it for you. AFA flipping the motor, you have to pull it first. If you pull the shift forks out the bottom, I would put it on a lift so you can have (relatively) easy access to the oil pan. On my bike there is a long shaft that goes from side to side and the shift forks ride on that shaft. Pulling the shaft out the side should allow you to remove the forks without removing the gears, if I understand TeamDar's post correctly.
I have to pull the transmission on my bike, so I have to split the cases, which requires the engine sitting on my bench, upside down, cylinder block and head still bolted up.
 
I broke a Detent spring on a 441 Victim back when. The transmission shifted whenever wherever. Yours may no longer be properly indexing the drum. Bent fork does sound more likely though.
 
i definitley noticed a difference when changing the oil to rotella. but one thing that sucks is that from neutral to first theres barley any click i feel like it jsut falls into gear when i "shift" into first... like first gear is REALLY close to neutral
 
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