• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Rust and Dreams

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigRock
  • Start date Start date
B

BigRock

Guest
Aloha Everyone- I've wanted to do a "get running again" for some time.
I'm glad I found this 82 750T. It's in bad shape and doesn't run. PO said the PO said it had a banging sound. We will find out shortly. I'm calling this rebuild "rust and dreams".
Wish me luck.
IMG_0251.jpg

IMG_0235.jpg

IMG_0236.jpg
 
Welcome to the nut house, pull up a floorboard and make yourself at home.
Basscliff should be around shortly with your mega welcome.
Looks like you have a nice project on your hands there, will be following with interest.
 
That's my kinda project! Did you get carbs and the exhaust with it?
I have her older sister, an '80 "L" model and believed there were not many differences between the two, but I am already learning from your pics they aren't as close as I thought. Yours has really nice lines... Love the tank. There's lots of potential right there.
I'd pull the spark plus and spray some penetrating oil in there and see if she turns by hand without issues. If so, do a quick check of the wiring, charge the battery and see if it'll crank over before you tear her down. Maybe even pull the valve cover and have a look-see while cranking.
That way you may get an idea of what you are dealing with from the beginning
Keep us updated, I'm getting excited for you over here! ;)
 
Last edited:
I definitely want to see what you can do to this one. :cool:
I love the style of that model. Only the effectiveness of the brake system might need improvement.
Better/modern friction materials might do the trick.

Daniel
 
I will look forward to your progress. Good luck and welcome to the forum
 
Following suggestions

Following suggestions

I love the suggestions. Just what I need.
Thanks for the magazine article or wherever that info came from.
I have the Clymer manual and am reading it cover to cover.

It came with carbs and a 4 into 1 exhaust of unknown maker. I'll post picks so I can get some guesses. Came with no battery. I hooked it up to the (non-running) car. The electrical seams to be in decent shape. I have oil pressure light, neutral and brake light. She cranks. Oil pressure light goes out. Sounds like she wants to start but I can hear the clunking sound the PO mentioned. I don't want to do anymore damage so no more cranking till I figure out the clunking sound. I do like to do research before I pick up a wrench.
Suggested by internet sources:
Piston to just past TDC
Stick a wood dowel in spark plug hole
Push down on dowel
No movement good
Any movement bad
Number two piston moves about 1/4 inch. NOT GOOD!!
Conclusion bad bearing in number two.
Let the dismantling begin!
Hey thanks for the great welcome!


IMG_0253.jpg


IMG_0255.jpg


IMG_0261.jpg

Yes, must clean around park plugs-grease,leafs, sand before removing
 
A few more photos of what I' m up against.

IMG_0268.jpg


IMG_0267.jpg


IMG_0264.jpg

The next photos should be of the complete breakdown, maybe.
The rust is so bad I almost can't make out the vin.
 
Yeah, that one's been sitting for quite come time. That is definitely what I would call a "project". Looking forward to seeing what you can do with her. Now, off to spray another coat :-)

Sci85
 
The worse it is now, the better your triumph when you get it done. At least that's what I'm telling myself. :rolleyes:

I'm already enjoying this thread. Please keep us posted.
 
Petina to the Max!!! You have your work cut out for you, hope you enjoy this kind of thing. I find it very rewarding to take a rusted piece of metal and return it to something shiney and new.
Take a lot of pics on the disassembly, you can refer to them later when it's going back together.
 
Looks like a fine aquisition!

What is your intended plan? Do you plan to create a concours show piece? Show room new condition? Rider? Custom?

It's always more interesting to follow someone's project if one has the program in hand.;)

Experience has taught me that it is far easier to deal with a project from the basis of a road test and, while this is not always practical, it can save a lot of grief due to undescovered issues.

That piston movement would seem to preclude running the engine for now but you may wish to consider the possibility that a temporary fix could allow the bike to be "got running" for a road test. Too often, people have done an end-to-end and then found some fundamental issue which was not detected. Maybe unlikely, but only needs to happen to you.

My own GS850 is intended only as a rider and requires the condition to be suitable for collector status. From time to time I see beautifully restored examples of older machines and begin to feel the itch but hope to resist because this would not suit my purpose.

As a general rule it is also usually best, after an assessment, to see how the machine lines up with one's intended outcome to see if they line up from an time and economics stand-point. It is far too easy to invest more of both time and money into a restore than it is worth. Often a restored one can be acquired for less than the cash investment as they are typically money pits.

Too many nice old bikes are lost because someone begins a restoration which is not completed. Too bad as they're not making more of them.:cry:
 
Last edited:
I can't believe how much I'm enjoying this process. Every piece I remove I make plans for it's return to functionality.
Normk-Return to function is the goal. I don't have the budget or know how for a proper restoration. I don't think I'm that kind of guy. Having it run clean and look clean would be the major goal.
Hoosier daddy- Taking photos and counting on them for the assembly.

IMG_0430.jpg


IMG_0420.jpg


IMG_0422.jpg


IMG_0428.jpg
 
Those two center photo's look a little on the rough side to me.
Best wishes on returning her back to life. Just be meticulous with each segment of your work.
It will live to ride again. ;)

Daniel
 
If you do not plan on splitting the case halves next, center the pistons mid-stroke and pack as many rags in the cavity below tight as possible to seal out the crud you are cleaning off and protect the pistons from pivoting on the wrist-pin and nicking their skirt on the case.
 
If you do not plan on splitting the case halves next,
center the pistons mid-stroke and pack as many rags in the cavity below tight as possible to seal out the crud you are cleaning off and
protect the pistons from pivoting on the wrist-pin and nicking their skirt on the case.

Something like this. Especially, you DO NOT want the "C" clip that retains the piston pin to drop down in there either coming out or going back in. :eek:

DSC03445.jpg



Daniel
 
Something like this. Especially, you DO NOT want the "C" clip that retains the piston pin to drop down in there either coming out or going back in. :eek:

Daniel

Ohhh the Horror! I spent almost an entire day once with a BSA engine in the parts washer, hoseing fluid in the top of the case with the oil screen out, shaking and rolling it around until that EXACT piece came out the bottom... :mad:
 
I had an auto mechanic friend come by last night. He said
I was doing things right by marking everything I take off. He wished me luck.
I think he was a little sarcastic.
Anyway the PO was an idiot! Fasteners torqued to tight or to loose. Wires painted over with black paint. Some friends asked when I thought it would run, It might be a little longer than I hoped.

IMG_0474.jpg



IMG_0470.jpg


One of the screws for the starter relay was behind the fuse box. That can't be right?

IMG_0451.jpg


This is why you take photos of the wiring, white/green into white blue? I'll be checking the wiring diagram.

IMG_0536.jpg
 
looks like some connectors have been replaced down the road somewhere. Good luck. just takes a little time but I'm sure you'll figure it out. Not sure why some wires dont match up colorwise unless some stuff was bypassed or something.
 
Good luck with all of this as one T owner to another. How fun it will be to watch it develop as I finally finished mine. Granted, no where near your start. I posted my shop book and owners manual on Cliff's site. I have some parts in a box, such as transmission parts, covers and other things. If I see you are making good progress I would be willing to contribute as I bought the parts from others just to have them. Thanks for posting as we are cheering you on!!! :)
 
Back
Top