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Rust-o-ration or rust-o-mod - GS650GL

A

adamdaz

Forum Apprentice
Past Site Supporter
Hi all - I'm new here and posted my introduction with my project bike here:

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?261932-Adamdaz-and-his-GS650GLX

I'll post one photo here - mostly as a place holder and to give some context to later photos as I progress on this thing.

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This is the GS in question, made up in a corvette bronze color and wearing an HD Roadster seat. Not sure if this will be the final seat choice, but I know it won't be the bone stock seat.

Lots of work to do, but I hope it is mostly maintenance. I'll probably start by getting it running. I expect to be looking for lifter shims on the shim exchange forum soon. I'll also be looking at the rebuilding of brake caliper advice here and on Bikecliff's site. The current flavor of brake fluid is chocolate milk. Once those are done, I'll work on putting the parts in the basket (now on the garage floor) back on the bike.

All the while, keeping track of the parts I need, the parts I want and the accessories to keep me comfortable while riding.

Finally, I will reiterate my ask of you tall riders. What have you done to be comfortable on a smaller GS? I'm 6'4" and would like to ride this smaller bike without curling into a small ball or wanting to curl into the fetal position when I get off. In particular, I have bad knees so I have to be able to stretch out a bit. I am also an avid road bicyclist, so I'm used to quite a bit of road time.

Thanks all - Adamdaz
 
I am of similar stature, but did not ride a 650L long enough to be bothered by its lack of size. I think my longest non-stop stretch in the saddle was about two hours. Took a short meal break, refueled the bike and headed home. Definitely not something I would want to do long-term (I prefer going somewhere that is several days away), but it did not bother me much for a day ride.

That seat actually looks rather comfortable, certainly a LOT moreso than the stocker. The handlebars have also been changed for the better, but you might need something to bring them up a bit to your height.
 
adamdaz said:
Hi all - I'm new here .

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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .What have you done to be comfortable on a smaller GS? I'm 6'4" .
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Welcome.
Good intro post, and good project post.

You have already done the best thing on that L relative to riding comfort: having done away with the L bars and the L seat.

Yah, a flatter seat will allow you more choices of seating positions, and the bars will allow you to have arms straighter.
 
Thanks Redman and phydeauxmutt.

I expect this bike to be mostly one for day rides or shorter. Something to use for buzzing around local roads, so it should be good. If my wife ever gets used to the idea of me having a motorcycle, then maybe I'll want something bigger later.
 
I am also tall, 6'3" and a bit, cruiser position makes me feel like a shrimp looking for a bed of lettuce, as I think John Burns once said. I ride the occasional HD, and always get hip cramps. Maybe a seat that allows more fore/aft positions would help, but I don't know if they make one for your bike. There's an interesting site I sometimes check out, it's just stock bikes but interesting.
https://cycle-ergo.com/

Just for fun, punched the bike/height in - you definitely did well with those bars, otherwise they're really in a bad location near knees.

ZXbEiO0.png
 
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I worked on the bike today. I mostly tackled putting stock parts back in place under the seat. This included putting the original intake box back where it belongs and then getting the wiring reattached correctly. Got it all tidied up and the tool box back in place too.

I also got the carbs connected to the intake box, but had no luck on getting it started. I've looked at several threads and have a good idea of where to go from here. I think it will most likely be taking the carbs apart and replacing o rings. I know PO and his friend did this twice, so there is a big chance that it's clean and a bigger chance they replaced jets with new ones. I hope not. It could also be simple, like the idle settings. To me, the carbs don't look clean from the outside. Also they've been sitting outside for months uncovered. Not good.
 
The Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature provides a list of common problems with GS bikes. You might want to check it out to see if anything applies.
 
I got it running today! PO had blocked the vent Ts on the carburetors and had the pilot screws turned nearly all the way in. I corrected these (unblocked vents and started at 2 1/2 turns out for pilots). I ran fuel to the carbs from a funnel to bypass the petcock. After giving it enough choke, it started to chug along. I adjusted the idle speed a bit and played with the pilot screws a bit (2 turns out seems best right now) and now I can get it to start when I want. This makes the project all worth while, because I know I can do the rest of the maintenance and balance the carbs. I have a running project now.

The petcock is also not functioning correctly, as fuel comes out without the bike running no matter what setting it is on. Add another part to the list. Unfortunately, that list is growing.

While running, the bike blew blue smoke for a little bit, but that crud cleared pretty promptly.

I'm in good spirits, and am waiting for the first batch of parts and a Morgan carbtune to show up. Parts on order include orings for the carbs, piston seals for the brake calipers, bolts and cushions to hold the tank on, a new air filter for the OEM airbox, clips to hold the airbox closed, drain hose for the airbox, and now petcock.

One question that I have for you all is where do you get brake hoses? I've read a few threads that talk about putting them together, but none about getting them OEM style (ready to install - no assembly required).

Thanks for the reference to the top 10 Nessisim - and for the write up on carb rebuilding on Bikecliff's site. They provided me with enough info to get it running tonight.

My next steps are to work on replacing the old brake fluid and ensuring those systems function correctly. I will also start the process to check valve clearances to make sure they are all in spec.

Carbs are still on the list, but that may wait until after I get the carbtune. I talked with the PO and he said they replaced most of the jets (not the main) from a kit. If I can't get it running smoothly by syncing the carbs, I will try to track down Mikuni jets to put it back straight.
 
You'll probably get recommendations for half a dozen different brands of pre-assembled brake lines. I've had good experiences with HEL - they're reasonably priced and always fit as they should.
 
For todays adventure, I took parts of the bike apart. First, I took the brake systems off the bike in anticipation of replacing caliper seals, putting on new brake hoses, and given them a good flush with new fluid. The existing brake pads were in decent shape, but I'll put new ones on while I'm at it. The brakes were working, but in need of some maintenance.

I drained the rear diff oil, um the (let me look it up....) final drive gear. The gear oil looked like it was changed recently, but I drained it anyway.

PO stopped by to drop off the painted side covers that match the tank. I'll post a photo of the bike in all it's glory in a day or two. It's too dark to get a good photo now, and I've got to shift to tiling the master shower this weekend. I promised my wife we could use it in a week and a day. She's mad enough that I bought a motorcycle and have been working on it instead of ...

I also checked the valve clearances and luckily they are all within spec as close as I can measure (SAE feeler gauges don't exactly match the min and max tappet gaps). I'm happy about that. Started it again today, because now I can. Belched blue smoke again. My first inclination was to ride it for a while (once my rust-o-ration is done) to see if it goes away, thinking rings may be stuck. After reading several threads with "blue smoke" in the title, my gut feeling was validated by "reliable" sources (no names shall be used). The bike has sat for at least 3 years without being ridden much. I don't have a compression tester, so I can't use such data to inform my decision.

Lastly (well it was the first thing I did, but the worst news) my electrical system does not charge my battery. Voltage when off was 13.27, when on (not running) was 12.99, at 3000 and 5000 rpm was 12.85 (doesn't run well so couldn't check at idle), when engine killed but still on was 12.82, and when turned back off was 13.07. The battery is good, the charge system is not.

So here I sit, ready to read (dun dun dun dun) the stator papers. I see new electrical components in my near future.

Ordered parts should arrive soon. On to ordering more.
 
Nessism said:
Since you seem handy with the hands making your own brake lines is a great way to go. Here is a guide...https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?249857-Earl-s-Brake-Line-Thread

For the charging system, if decide a new R/R is needed be sure to get a SH775. Tons of info on the reason why here in the archives...over literally thousands of posts.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the suggestions Ed. I looked into both. Instead of making my own brake lines, I ordered a pre-made set of Apex stainless steel lines delivered to me for $80. As for the R/R and stator, I have a question for you and others:

Would a used SH775 and used stator be okay to use? I can get one of each for about $35 on ebay, which should save me some money. While handy, I don't want to rewind my stator.

Thanks again for everyone's advice.
 
A used SH775 will most likely be OK, unless one of the plastic connector housings on the bottom is FUBAR. Even then, and long as the male spades are intact, female spade connectors could be connected and the cavity potted. Ed has some super duper aircraft stuff for that or can recommend another, if that's what you need to do. Triumph's connector is probably best.

I'd go new on the stator. Electrosport, Caltric or Rick's.
 
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Why buy a used stator for $35 when you can get a brand new one from caltric for very close to the same price?

I just got one for my 1000E for $38 I believe was the price.

As for the r/r, make sure you get the real thing with the markings on it showing "sh 775a or b".
 
Rich beat me on the posting, but yeah, a Triumph cable works well for the connection.
 
My weekend update...

My Morgan carbtune arrived on Friday, so I've been messing with that a bit. I've gotten it running better, with 3 of 4 carbs vacuum synced. Took a bit of tweaking, as they all started with no vacuum registering on the carbtune. Now, only cylinder 3 has no vacuum. I'll need to tweak them more to get them all in line. I made myself a little sync adjusting tool by welding one of those many extra Allan wrenches that I accumulate to a spare socket. A slotted screwdriver will fit through the socket to hold the adjustment screw while the tool is used to tighted the lock nut.

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I also took apart the original seat in anticipation of modifying it. The seat pan was in pretty good shape, so I wire brushed what rust was there and sprayed it with rust restorer to inhibit from getting worse.

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I'm looking forward to many parts showing up this week and moving this project into high gear.

Larry and Rich - Thanks for the info on the stator. I ordered a Caltric stator and should have that this week. I could not for the life of me figure out what Triumph connectors to get. I couldn't find part numbers, a relevant bike with the SH775, or links to them. I've given up and decided to just use male fittings and make my own connector. That is in part because I'm putting out a bunch of cash on this thing so far.

I have one original piece of hardware from this bike that I won't be using.

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[/FONT]I have a couple of questions for folks. First, have ever seen interested in such a sissy bar? If so, I'll put it up for sale cheap. Second, what are the cheapest shocks that I could (should) put on this. PO lowered the bike and that just won't work for me.

Thanks.
 
I've gotten my 650 to run smoothly now. A bit more tuning of the carbs and it purrs. Here's the carbtune at the end.

p3OIjr2.jpg


I also worked on adding LED tail and turn signals today. They also work well. I know there are multiple posts on this forum that describe how to add diodes to the circuit to get LEDs to function properly. I have diodes on order, and plan to install them. Another easy way to get them to work is to remove the signal light from the instrument panel. This separates the left and right circuit entirely. Add in a LED ready blinder, and you are running. This of course won't allow you to know your signal is on when you are riding, so not the most elegant solution, but the quickest. Here is an image of both the tail light and the turn signal on a left turn. They both incorporate the turn signal, with the separate signal indicators progressively lighting up. The effect is really nice because it looks like the tail light starts the progression, which then moves onto the signal indicator. I have the same indicators up front too.

HUvfEKM.jpg


Finally, here is a sneak preview of how the bike. I installed the new petcock today and put on the tank and side covers.

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