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Rusty Fork Tube

  • Thread starter Thread starter flatty_420
  • Start date Start date
There were probably rubber caps on them when new to keep the rust from happening.
The problem with online fiche is that pretty much all of it is US based and you have a bike unique to Canada and maybe parts of Europe. I searched for ages for a Canadian online fiche for my 40mm Gsxr carbs , never found one, although some from the UK were similar.
 
GateKeeper said:
the evaporust will help for sure, in the meantime, you can try to put the socket back on and tap gently around and around, to try and square it up again, once it is straight and not cock eyed, they might come up, maybe even a bit of PB Blaster or the likes to lubricate things a bit....

take the straps off if your going to do the above....

.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what I spent quite a while doing...trying to square them up. I will have to get some PB and Evaporust and give them a go to see if that will help. I will definately take the straps off b4 doing any more work to it.
 
gearhead13 said:
There were probably rubber caps on them when new to keep the rust from happening.
The problem with online fiche is that pretty much all of it is US based and you have a bike unique to Canada and maybe parts of Europe. I searched for ages for a Canadian online fiche for my 40mm Gsxr carbs , never found one, although some from the UK were similar.
Click to expand...

I am finding this tp be painfully true. It seems to be ever so slightly different in quite a few little ways.
 
Good suggestions so far. Pouring a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix in there would be where I'd start, or soak that thing in PB blaster. Just pool it. If the sticktion is below the o-ring I'm wondering if Evapo-rust could get down there. I have push caps, too, and one was a bit stubborn. But mine also have schrader valves in the caps, so I could put pliers on those to help rock/pull them up. I'm kind of wondering if they're that bad if drilling/tapping and putting a bolt in wouldn't be the way to go. Careful with your clips out though! If they decide to let go they may do so with some force!

Maybe some gentle heat, too?
 
mike_of_bbg said:
I'm kind of wondering if they're that bad if drilling/tapping and putting a bolt in wouldn't be the way to go.
Click to expand...

This has crossed my mind as well. The oil is already out of the forks though.....I wonder if shrapnel from the drilling would be hard to clean out?
 
Where are you in NB? I have a pair of 750 forks with the hex head caps.

Somone did a number on the plumbing for the anti-dive but i think it was just done to defeat the apparatus not to permanently harm it.
 
I'm located in SE NB, near Saint John. I have Evaporust pooled in the tops sitting overnight. Tomorrow overnight, I will pool PB Blaster in there. Then I will have another go at the caps with a punch and try again to get them out.

Not sure I understand the anti-dive....it almost looks like the fork oil and brake fluid are shared? That seems ridiculous to me, and the more I think aboot it, the more I doubt that is the case but the modulator valve plumbing seems to go to the brake cylinder and connect using the same banjo bolt that the brake line connects with.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys....this site is a treasure trove of knowledge and info.
 
Ditch the anti-dive.

Remove plumbing and actuator and make some plates like these...

anti-dive001.jpg


anti-dive002.jpg


750ES013.jpg
 
Give me a tank of gas my truck and a reason to go to the manor of Elsie Wayne and I shall rule the world!!!

Anyway if you are totally stuck I have some viable forks 3 hours away.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Give me a tank of gas my truck and a reason to go to the manor of Elsie Wayne and I shall rule the world!!!

Anyway if you are totally stuck I have some viable forks 3 hours away.
Click to expand...

:lol:

Sounds good...thanks for the backup plan.
 
Nessism said:
Ditch the anti-dive.

Remove plumbing and actuator and make some plates like these...
Click to expand...

Not sure I could make those....looks like I would need a milling machine for that trough on the inside. Maybe using the existing modulator valve and replacing the hose to the caliper with a plug? :-k
 
Maybe using the existing modulator valve and replacing the hose to the caliper with a plug?
Click to expand...
That's exactly what you can do. Remove the hose between the modulator and the caliper. On the modulator insert a bolt or plug of somekind (epoxy putty if you don't plan on using them ever again. On the caliper side, cut off the banjo from the hose close to the body of the banjo and weld the cut closed closed. Put the banjo back on the fitting to the caliper ( don't forget the crush washers). Re fill the master and bleed the brakes. Job done.

Those existing forks look like a pain, if I were you, I'd take Jeep up on his offer and switch to the forks with screw in caps. Lots easier to work with.

Good luck with it.

Spyug
 
spyug said:
Those existing forks look like a pain, if I were you, I'd take Jeep up on his offer and switch to the forks with screw in caps. Lots easier to work with.
Click to expand...

I am seriously considering it. I will soak with Evaporust first and then PB and try again. If I can't do anything with them after that, JEEP will probably be getting a PM.
 
Here's what they look like after 24 hrs of Evaporust....stuff works nicely. PB Blaster is in there now and I'll see what I can do with them tomorrow night hopefully.

2012-05-08211640.jpg
 
I'm thinking low pressure air through the port (20psi), place socket on the cap, tap socket, soak, air pressure, tap... sort of a tap down, push up, tap down, push up on it type of affair.
 
Wow, those caps are pitted all to crap. Water must have sat on top of them for a LONG time.

BTW, I made those blank off caps using nothing but a hack saw, drill press, and grinding burr in a die grinder (you could use a drill). It ain't rocket science, just hard work. Looks way cleaner to cap them than just put a plug in the port.:D
 
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Alrighty, I am done with these forks. I cannot get these caps to budge no matter what I try. 24 hours of Evaporust soak....another 24 hours of PB Blaster. They would not budge AT ALL. I eventually got to the point where I figured if I cannot get the caps to budge I might as well try drilling a hole in the cap, tapping it, and putting a bolt in to give me something to pull on while working them...what the heck I can't use them this way. Bolt ended up breaking off and still the cap would not move AT ALL. :mad::mad::mad:
I give up on these forks...I have a possible line on another parts bike sitting in a barn not too far away, but if that does not pan out....JEEPRUSTY, I will be contacting you.

2012-05-09222043.jpg
 
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