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Screwed the pooch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Havoc1231
  • Start date Start date
H

Havoc1231

Guest
Help! I have removed the engine from the bike and have followed all the steps in the Clymer manual for removing the crankcases in order to easier clean the 35 years of road grime off of them and potentially powder coat them. I got to the the step of "lightly tapping" with a rubber mallet to separate the halves, however nothing will budge. I cannot get the halves to separate!!!

To make things worse, in the process of lightly tapping, I cracked the lower crankcase of the clutch housing. I don't think frustrated quite cuts it at this point in time. Have I ruined the engine? Where to I go from here? Please give me some good news.
 
Sorry, it's a 77 GS750. I kind of figured I could get it welded. Any suggestions on an easier method for splitting the crank cases?
 
In the front and at the back of the tranny, there are "notches" that the suzuki factory tool slipped in to pry the halves apart. You can put a wide blade flat tip in there and with a twisting motion get the halves to start seperating. Note that there are dowels that line up each half. You will need to use something that wont hurt the mating surfaces to shim it up as you gently pry them apart.

Wood wedges work well to shim along and keep the gains youve made. Keep going back and forth and gently get them apart..try to keep them seperating evenly as to not bind them up on the dowels.
 
Havoc1231 said:
Sorry, it's a 77 GS750. I kind of figured I could get it welded. Any suggestions on an easier method for splitting the crank cases?
Click to expand...
Did you remove ALL the bolts that hold the two halves together?

There is one under the starter motor, and I think one other that is relatively "hidden".

.
 
DO NOT pry on the mating surfaces with anything that will scar or do damage to them!!! IE:::Screwdrivers, pry bar, etc etc.
 
Reseal the cases with Three Bond 1207B..Buy it from an online source. My tube from Suzuki was ordered a month ago and was back ordered and wont be shipped till the first week of March!!!!
 
The other "hidden one" i suspect is the one in the front that comes up from the bottom right between the 2 and 3 exhaust ports?? That the one you mean Steve?
 
Sorry to hear of your mis-adventure with the case splitting. I've never worked on that motor so I couldn't tell you where any "hidden" bolts are: the ones from the 550 aren't there. Tapping got me nowhere with my crankcase either, so I used bolts in the notches that Chuck is talking about. Just a few turns got the halves apart easily once I had verified all the bolts were gone. This picture may help:

IMG_0234.jpg


Good luck. You might want to post a pic of the damage. Also, check out the crankcase parts fiche as it shows the location of all the bolts:

14.gif
 
Mike, thanks, that visual definitely helps out. I'm fairly certain I have removed all of the bolts. The only one I havent' compltely removed is the one that's blocked by the oil filter cover stud which I couldn't get out. I did loosen that bolt though and I'm pretty sure it's unthreaded, just not removed. I tried removing the aforementioned oil filter stud via the "double-nut" method, however I think all I accomplished was tearing up the threads of the stud and permanently affixing a nut to it's base.

Also, I havent removed the pistons, because it wasn't a step in the Clymer manual (aka my Bible), but it seems to reason that I will need to do that in order to remove the cases..right?

Here's the damage:
http://i.imgur.com/AKO4Vux.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ynfohZ3.jpg

Thanks for all your help thus far.
 
With the psitons off the rods, they dont get snagged at the bottoms and cause you any hangups. Put your hand over the circlips as you remove them from the slot so they dont go flying across the garage somehwere and get lost.


The local welding shop can easily TIG that crack for you..be glad it didnt snap a chunk off!!!!
 
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Havoc1231 said:
Also, I havent removed the pistons, because it wasn't a step in the Clymer manual (aka my Bible), but it seems to reason that I will need to do that in order to remove the cases..right?
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, the Clymer manual is not bad, but your GS-working bible should probably be the factory service manual. The 3rd-party manuals contain some helpful views and tips that the factory manual won't, but I've also seen typos and omissions in them as well. They're best used as supplements to the factory service manual. You can download a PDF manual for your bike from BassCliff's site (did you ever get a mega-welcome?):

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

That damage looks like a weld and some smoothing should take care of it.
 
chuck hahn said:
The other "hidden one" i suspect is the one in the front that comes up from the bottom right between the 2 and 3 exhaust ports?? That the one you mean Steve?
Click to expand...
Each engine is different. I have not split any cases yet, so I don't have any personal experience, just relaying what I have read here. :o

.
 
Thanks guys. I was able to successfully split the cases and am now ready to clean, weld and powder coat them (eventually). I did miss two bolts, which I could have sword I had removed. I found them after I tried the nut and bolt trick to splitting the halves, so of course, I lost one of those tabs. Yet another little weld job to have done.

Chuck, any reason I should use that particular liquid gasket over other brands? I had just picked up a tube of stuff (not sure what brand) from pep boys earlier this week. Just curious.
 
Many bike companies and many mechanics that work in professional shops and dealerships swear by it..and if the bike companies mention it in their manuals ( My Yamaha manual specifically does ) then thats why i suggested it.

Many here also have used, and had no difficulty with other stuff and suggest a place called HOLYMAR...I think Bill ( Chef) , Ray, Ed, and many others here have mentioned Holymar..but youll have to PM them for specific names of the sealers they have used.
 
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bwringer said:
You won't find a case sealer that will work at Pep Boys or any auto parts store.

You need a very specific type of sealer for motorcycle engine cases. Many dirtbike-oriented moto shops will carry a Yamabond brand sealer.

It's also sold under the ThreeBond name. Here's one excellent source:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...n=ThreeBond+Liquid+Gasket+1184&item=TU53-0395
Click to expand...

That's the stuff. The reason everyone is so specific is because this is known not to harden. If your sealant hardens pieces can break off and clog your oil passages. Well tested and proven: and it's not even expensive. One tube would do 3 cases.

If you need to get something locally for speed as mentioned visit your local Yamaha, Suzuki or Honda dealer and get their name-brand bond (YamaBond, SuzukiBond, HondaBond, whatever). It's the same stuff.
 
Just a thought?

Just a thought?

Would some torch heat applied to the case edges help?
Maybe soften the seal compound.
:-k
 
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