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secondary bearings "overloaded"

  • Thread starter Thread starter matt1100
  • Start date Start date
M

matt1100

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Just completed an engine rebuild on my 82 gs1100 glz.. In the process replaced secondary driven bearings, gearset, and seals. I followed the service manual explicitly to set preload, gearlash and tooth contact. I was concerned that the preload specified was a little heavy and would make the bike difficult to move. I went ahead and reassembled thining they would "wear-in" and loosen up. I'm about 15 miles into break-in now and they are still very stiff.

I'm thinking it's cool because they add load for ring seating. But I am concerned that those bearings will wear prematurely and I have a difficult time even pushing it around in the garage! Does anyone have any experience with this who could offer some direction?

Also thanks to GS Resorces for all your input and experience. You guys are awesome
 
The shafties have a tendency to be hard to push. Could
your breaks be dragging ?
If you move the shaft coupling on the motor it should have a little play..
 
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How tight?

How tight?

matt,

Define too stiff..

"manual explicitly to set preload, gearlash and tooth contact"
Click to expand...
assuming you did these steps correctly , how stiff were the bearings/ gear assembly to turn before you put in the trans?

I would describe 4.5 ft - lbs as stiff to turn with one hand. ( just depends on how butch you are ,or if youve had your weetbix)

A common mistake is to use a torque wrench from the wrong range I.E if it goes to 120 ft-lb it wont be so accurate at 4.5 ft-lbs. the manual suggests a 15 ft-lb max wrench. (digital excepted i these days i suppose)


cheers john
 
As you say Jon, it was quite difficult to turn by hand, I could but it took effort.

I used my little 1/4" drive torque wrench who range is 20-200 inch lb (1.6-16.7 ft lb). I had adjusted shims using the ones already in the bike and the ones off the donor. At the end .1 mm of shim made a world of difference to set it to spec.

I'm contemplating going back in by removing the swing arm and putting .1mm more into it, even if it does make it looser than suzuki says it should be. I can push it but its very difficult.

Did anyone have one of these brand new? Did they come like that?
 
"quite difficult" Does sound maybe too tight.

Never had the joy of a new one...
 
If there's so much friction that the bike is hard to push, that's going to create a hell of a lot of heat somewhere... I'd re-do it.
 
The motor has held alot more heat than before. Guess I thought it may have been frm the added resistence of new rings.:eek: Damn, hope I did not compromise any of my new seals. Its alot of work to get back to those! Thanks guys
 
matt1100 said:
As you say Jon, it was quite difficult to turn by hand, I could but it took effort.

I used my little 1/4" drive torque wrench who range is 20-200 inch lb (1.6-16.7 ft lb). I had adjusted shims using the ones already in the bike and the ones off the donor. At the end .1 mm of shim made a world of difference to set it to spec.

I'm contemplating going back in by removing the swing arm and putting .1mm more into it, even if it does make it looser than suzuki says it should be. I can push it but its very difficult.

Did anyone have one of these brand new? Did they come like that?
Click to expand...

Matt, you need to swap those shims over to regain the correct gear clearance. You will be scuffing the gears and overloading the bearings.

Suzuki list the shims as 0.30, O.35, 0.40, 0.50 & 0,60mm. These are no longer available, but shows how they allowed the adjustments to get to within a maximum 0.05mm (0.002") of the desired clearance. In most cases, by juggling shims you should be able to achieve 0.001" accuracy.

I have a selection of spare shims that I may be able to help you with, if you let me know what you need. :)
 
If you put in brand new bevel gears 15 mi is not nearly enough to break them in. 1500 mi is more like what you need for the gears to wear in. I would leave it alone and put some miles on it. Check the case frequently for temp. if it gets hotter that the clutch cover then you might need to losen them up. But if you do it now and the gears wear in you'll end up with too much play. It will be tighter than a brand new bike would be as Suzuki ran them in on a machine before final engine assembly.
 
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I believe that I have solved the issue. Pulled it all apart and reduced shim on driven bearings .1mm. It turned much better and came in just below spec. Reinstalled it and found assembley still extremely difficult to turn. Increased driven chunk shim .5mm and now have a properly turning assembly. Tooth contact was too deep! I initially set it before assembling cases with 2 of the flange bolts installed. Must have tightened up when completely assembled.

Few more tweaks to carbs and valves and I hope to have the bike I set out to have over a year ago, a reliable, one-off, beast from the far east.

Thanks for the input guys. 49er that was a very gracious offer.
 
Glad you've got it sorted Matt. I've received help and offers of parts from others on here, so was very happy to return the favour.:)
 
A dirty trick. I needed to add a shim on my 850, I cut the shim in 1/2 and moved the gear assembly out just a mm to slip the shims in ! that was several years ago....
 
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