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Seems like cylinder 1 and 2 are the only two firing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
D

Defore

Guest
I have a 1982 gs550 with 3190 miles on it NOT 31900 I say that to cancel out valve adjusting etc... It wouldn't run until I installed a dyna s now it runs if I hold the throttle full open and the carbs have been completely rebuilt with a dyno jet kit installed. What is goin on!?
Thanks.
 
You still need to go in and check those clearances. There is no getting around it on a bike that is 30 years old. Sorry, but those are the facts.
 
Defore, if you want your bike to run correctly all of the recommended maintenance that is listed in Basscliff's welcome package you got must be done first.
 
Hi,

Spark plugs? Plug caps? Wires? Incomplete carb cleaning? Have you tested for spark? Have you tested the coils? Have you tested the charging system? What are you using for an air filter?

Even if valve clearance is not your problem, they still have to be checked sooner or later.

CLICK HERE to review.

CLICK HERE to review.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
koolaid_kid said:
You still need to go in and check those clearances. There is no getting around it on a bike that is 30 years old. Sorry, but those are the facts.
Click to expand...
Yes, cuz maybe they were never ever checked,or worser, someone did it wrong! Why not find out?
 
Wires are good carbs are good and coils are good. Ill swap caps and recheck the gaps and go from there. But I'm reading running k&n's. And tkent02 how am I ruining my 30 yr old bike?
 
When you pull the caps, if you don't see shiny copper at the end of the spark plug wires, cut about 1/2 inch off the ends of the wires. They do tend to corrode over time and cause issues.
 
What setup are you running, pods, exhaust etc?..
If all plugs are firing then I would put my money on the carbs being the issue.

Check the bowls to make sure they're all getting fuel.
 
I missed that one. An easy way to see if the plugs are really firing is to run it for a couple of minutes and then shut it off. Wearing some type of glove, see if the pipes are hot. Careful, though. The ones that are firing will be a bit warm.

Also, do you have a compression tester, or access to one? You can also do a compression check on each cylinder.
 
Well the ones that fire are of course hot and the ones that sou d like there not are still a lil warm. But yes the plugs when I pull them out are all wet.
 
Have you done the spark test yet? Pull the plug, ground it against the frame or the engine, and hit the start button. The spark should be a nice bright blue and consistent, not just once in a while. This is easiest done in a dimly lit place.
 
Defore said:
Well the ones that fire are of course hot and the ones that sou d like there not are still a lil warm. But yes the plugs when I pull them out are all wet.
Click to expand...

^^ What he said....Using new plugs, confirm that they are firing then go from there.
 
Sitting on the bike looking down, the left coil with white wire goes to cylinder 1 and 4 and the right coil with black wire goes to cylinder 2 and 4 correct? And since y'all are set on valves I'm doing a compression test when I get in town in about an hour or so and then well see if I'm leaking.
 
I'm sure you meant 2&3 (typos happen). Do the compression check (if you are not sure how I suspect BassCliff has the procedure posted). If it is low, check your valve clearances and redo the compression check. If the compression is within tolerances, the only other culprit would be the carbs.
Float levels and needles and seats are the usual suspects, btw.
 
It's not a matter of doing a compression test and seeing if you are leaking. It is ESSENTIAL that you physically use a feeler gauge and measure the gap between the camshafts and shims to ensure there's sufficient clearance. The valves will tighten up over time by design and if they get too tight, like Rusty said, you'll burn them up badly. You'll suffer significant engine damage as a result.

But it's your bike.
 
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