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Seems like cylinder 1 and 2 are the only two firing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
Yes i ment 2 and 3 and Im thinking float levels need to be adjusted. So everyone is set on valves being out of wack on a bike with 3000 miles?
 
Not that they are out of whack just saying you should MAKE SURE. Plus, recommended check period is roughly every 4000 miles.
 
Well if I'm gona do it I might as well do it right. What's the valve clearance need to be at?
 
Between .03mm and .08mm. Contact Steve (his name and username) for his spreadsheet to help track it and if it needs shims, the Shim Club on here is pretty good (check out services section or PM GhostGS1)
 
If the bike runs on cylinders 1 & 2, I would assume the timing is at least in the ball park for 3 & 4. Since all spark plugs get spark, and the plugs are wet, meaning it gets fuel, it should fire unless the amount of fuel is so highly restricted (choke not working on those two, or way too rich) I would at least think I'd get a backfire though. That would leave the plug wires for 3 & 4 being crossed, or not enough compression.
 
Defore said:
Yes i ment 2 and 3 and Im thinking float levels need to be adjusted. So everyone is set on valves being out of wack on a bike with 3000 miles?
Click to expand...
It is more of a procedural thing. There are just certain things that must be done to insure a solid bike and that is one of them.
Cowboy, he can do the compression check prior to adjusting the valves. If they are too tight there will be a loss of compression, that is all. The bike is not going on the road until it runs correctly. But as I stated in my first post, it is a must-do procedure before taking it on the road.
Sedelen, since he rebuilt the carbs it is possible that the enrichment circuit is not functioning correctly. However, that would be a blocked or partially blocked passage, which would cause a lean condition. The wet plugs indicate a rich condition or inability to fire the charge correctly due to low compression or far too much fuel.
A leak down test would be best if the compression is low and the valve clearances are within tolerance. The leak down test narrows it down to valves, rings or head gasket. But I normally save that for last because of the equipment and time involved (quality air compressor, tools, and setting the cylinder under test to TDC). In my garage that would be no big thing on a bike, but it is not something the shade tree mechanic normally has laying around.
Defore, since you don't even know the clearances you need to get the procedure and study it carefully. The cams need to be in the correct position prior to the check, and you will want to use the zip tie method to change shims.
 
I did 2 head gaskets on a 1995 camaro z28 in a Gainesville parking lot with a 52pc craftsmen set. I think i can do a lil valve job with the tools I have on hand now. Thank god but anyway I just did the compression test and I'm afraid y'all were right. Only cylinder 1 has 65lbs and slowly leaks where 2 thru 4 were only maybe 30lbs and leaked pretty fast...so either valves and or rings? I hope to god not rings! OK guys so where to begin. Pull off valve cover after I have it set at tdc and then what? Anything else I should know?
 
Did you check compression with the throttle open? Your numbers are typical with the throttle closed.
And,
The most likely place to lose compression is through incorrect valve clearances. The clearances normally get tighter with wear, especially on lower mileage engines. There can be no compression if the valves are not closed. If you run it this way, you will burn valves.
Again, check the clearances. .03mm is the very minimum, .08 or even .10mm is better.
 
Defore said:
I did 2 head gaskets on a 1995 camaro z28 in a Gainesville parking lot with a 52pc craftsmen set. I think i can do a lil valve job with the tools I have on hand now. Thank god but anyway I just did the compression test and I'm afraid y'all were right. Only cylinder 1 has 65lbs and slowly leaks where 2 thru 4 were only maybe 30lbs and leaked pretty fast...so either valves and or rings? I hope to god not rings! OK guys so where to begin. Pull off valve cover after I have it set at tdc and then what? Anything else I should know?
Click to expand...
I was not doubting your ability to pull the head, rather the equipment to do a leak down test. It requires a decent air compressor and a leak down tester tool, and the knowledge to run the tests.
On these bikes, if it still has low compression after the valve clearances are dialed in, you will need to pull the head and the cylinder block. Not that difficult as long as you take your time. Fortunately, you are not in a parking lot (I hope).
Rings are not that bad. You need to pull the cylinder block anyway, since if you just pull the head you are almost guaranteed to cause a leak at the base gasket when it goes back together.
If you have an air compressor I think you can do the rent it and return it (for the leak down tester) at you local auto parts. Or you can check the ring clearances when you pull the block. Most of the time the valves just need to be lapped in if they are at fault.
 
tkent02 said:
Did you check compression with the throttle open? Your numbers are typical with the throttle closed.
And,
The most likely place to lose compression is through incorrect valve clearances. The clearances normally get tighter with wear, especially on lower mileage engines. There can be no compression if the valves are not closed. If you run it this way, you will burn valves.
Again, check the clearances. .03mm is the very minimum, .08 or even .10mm is better.
Click to expand...
Good point. I suggested that he get the compression test procedure from BassCliff's site, but that may not have happened. IDK.
 
koolaid_kid said:
On these bikes, if it still has low compression after the valve clearances are dialed in, you will need to pull the head and the cylinder block.
Click to expand...

Maybe, maybe not. Sometimes the compression will come back up after everything is adjusted correctly and after the engine runs several thousand hard miles...
Of course it depends on what exactly is causing the problem.
 
tkent02 said:
Maybe, maybe not. Sometimes the compression will come back up after everything is adjusted correctly and after the engine runs several thousand hard miles...
Of course it depends on what exactly is causing the problem.
Click to expand...
True dat. Of course, that is the "cross my fingers and hope it fixes itself" approach. I could see that if the valve seats are carboned up. If the rings are stuck, isn't there a method sometimes employed, like pouring a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug hole to try to free them up?
I am also confused by the "and it leaked down quickly" part. My tester has a schraeder valve in it to hold the pressure until I press the button.
 
Hi,

Please visit my little website. You will find "how to" guides for most regular maintenance tasks and a lot more.

I forget, is the '82 GS550 a 16 valve engine? If so, use the 16 valve procedure to check the valve clearance and not the 8 valve procedure.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
tkent02 said:
Where do I get the 20% discount?
Click to expand...
Car mags, bike mags, diy mags. I have even gone to the public library and "borrowed" them from their mags. They get tossed at the end of the month anyway.
Also, if you get Sunday's paper they are buried in one of the "ad sections" every week.
Not sure if they have them in South Park, but you get my drift.
 
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