• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Setting stock shocks

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Okay, suspension stuff is not my strong suite, so I am wondering...

Stock GS1100E shocks have preload and damping adjustments. Right now I have mine set at preload one click from full preload and damping at #4. I know this question might sound a bit silly, but since I don't seem to notice much difference when I adjust, especially in damping, if you were a 225# man, age 62 and riding a combination of city and country roads, and who rides somewhat spirited at times but calm when in traffic, how would you set the suspension? No luggage and no passenger to deal with, what would be optimum settings? Thanks.
 
The two things that will start a fight on a motorcycle forum. oil and suspension. :D

Its all pretty subjective. What you personally like the ride to feel like and what works best for your riding style. You have those knobs on the outside so can play with them. So spin them to full soft and see what that does to handling (carefully). Then find a set up that works best for you.
 
Last edited:
First, start with the preload. Are you sure that "one click from full" is the proper setting? Check that by measuring your "sag". Measure your shocks at full extension (bike unloaded, possibly on the centerstand). Sit on the bike (with full gear and any other 'load' you might normally carry), have a helper measure the shocks. You are looking for 20-25% compression. Most of our shocks have about 4 inches of travel, so you are looking for about 1 inch of compression. Adjust your preload to acheive that number.

If your shocks were in pristine operating condition, I think the damping control is set to about one number less than the preload. Since your preload is currently in the fourth position, damping should be in #3. Reality check time. You really think your shocks are still working as if they were new? Where the damping might have actually had a measureable effect when new, I'll be that right now, the damping ranges from "laughable" to "almost", so it probably doesn't make much difference where you set it.

You should probably consider getting some new shocks. There are always the cheap (<$100) EMGO shocks, but they ride ROUGH.

Next step up is Hagon. For about $200, they are decent shocks. Call Dave Quinn at 203-393-2651, he will get your bike information, weights for you (and passenger?), your gear, etc., and set you up with the proper shock body and spring weight.

Next step up (but not necessarily better) is Progressive. They are about $300. Some like 'em, some don't, but they are a decent option. No choices for damping, but there are a few choices for spring weight.

There are other choices for more money, but these will get your search started.
 
"First, start with the preload. Are you sure that "one click from full" is the proper setting?"

No I am not, that is why I need the guiding light from all of you. I did not know of the 20-25% compression number,I will check that and adjust accordingly tomorrow (rain just started here.)

"If your shocks were in pristine operating condition, I think the damping control is set to about one number less than the preload. Since your preload is currently in the fourth position, damping should be in #3."

Okay, a place for me to start, got it.

However...

"Reality check time. You really think your shocks are still working as if they were new? Where the damping might have actually had a measureable effect when new, I'll be that right now, the damping ranges from "laughable" to "almost", so it probably doesn't make much difference where you set it."

Yeah, I was afraid of that, although I will try the above damping position suggestion just for s*#ts and giggles.

"You should probably consider getting some new shocks."

Fine, but I like the stock look and prefer to keep that if possible. The purist in me is hard to subdue. Would there be replacements that look like OEM?

I have a few debts to pay before spending the money, but once SSI kicks in I can relax a little and get what I need to make her the best she can be.
 
I am befuddled as to what works best for me and what is optimal performance, rideability and comfort. I guess I don't trust my gut on this and am looking for a quantitative definition, which may be impossible.
 
oregonjake said:
I am befuddled as to what works best for me and what is optimal performance, rideability and comfort.
Click to expand...

There is no such thing. Even when you think you have it *perfect*, you will notice a nagging difference between when the tank is full and empty, or that one day you like the way it handles and the next you don't. For a street bike ridden by a grownup, it really doesn't matter much, as long as its not dangerous to ride.

There is tons on the web and books about suspension tuning, but it does require some practical experience. You can either OJT it or pay someone to set it up for you, but at the end of the day, it really boils down to what your butt tells you and what you are comfortable and confident in.
 
I am going to do some adjusting as per the advice here, trying different settings to see what makes my butt happy. It's raining here today but a long ride is planned for Sunday when it clears. Results of what my butt says will be reported here after the test ride.
 
You're rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic, here. These shocks were barely adequate for Suzuki's anorexic ballerina test riders 33 years ago, and they haven't improved a bit with age.

You set these shocks by "setting" them in the recycling bin and putting on fresh modern shocks. The Hagons mentioned above are an excellent, cost-effective choice.

Until then, crank up the preload to the max. It's highly unlikely the damping setting still makes any perceptible difference whatsoever, but crank it up to max as well. Remember, these bikes have suspension set up by Japanese test riders the size of Hobbits (as are all of Suzuki's bikes to this very day). North Americans and Europeans are completely outside the range of stock adjustability.
 
Last edited:
Gorminrider said:
But setting up the back shocks without setting up the front is not such a good idea, is it?
Click to expand...


Correct. Setting on both ends must compliment each other or you going to get some weird handling. My routine is to first get the front and rear close and then fine tune the front by springrate/spacers and then move on to correct fork oil weight for the riding style etc. I also use zipties on the forks for accurate travel measuring. Then fine tune the rear with whatever adjustments you have, if you can't get the rear right then a shock replacement is probably required. I'm fortunate with our crappy road surfaces around here to find a road with some moderate frost heaves and check to see that the front and rear compress and rebound at the same rate, otherwise it's all a bit of a crap shoot.
 
Suspension is subjective, isn't it? I knew I would have to look at the front end as well, but I have one issue that I have to address first; make work the anti-dive system. The kid I bought her from removed the short link hoses from the modulator valve and capped it off. Thank goodness he didn't remove the valves, just swapped banjo bolts and used a spacer on the longer bolt now through the valve, shorter bolt now holding the brake hose to the caliper. I want to get hoses eventually and have the system work, it will be then that I plan to go through the forks, replace steering bearings, brake pads and start playing with adjusting the forks to match the rear.

Let's not start yet on the air in the forks and how to set that right...unless I should integrate that into my overall front end plan, in which case i'm going to need more adult beverages.
 
Get out the beer - and be prepared for numerous folks to tell you to forget about both the anti-dive and the fork air. I am not one of those folks.

Cycle World (in 1982) said the anti-dive barely worked when new, but they liked the air assist. And they had great things to say about the rear shocks. I'll dig up the quotes soon.

I realize you're working on an '83, but I think they're similar. Just crack a brew and be ready for comments like, "AIR IS BAD! AIR IS BAD!"
 
bwringer said:
Remember, these bikes have suspension set up by Japanese test riders the size of Hobbits (as are all of Suzuki's bikes to this very day). North Americans and Europeans are completely outside the range of stock adjustability.
Click to expand...

Buahahaha! Must be the same guys who can fit their hands in the microscopic spaces around the engine in my 300ZX. I'm cussing them every time I have to work on that thing.
 
hmmm...Not sure about "subjective" with the OEM shocks.... ie: I "felt" my shocks (gsx400) were too stiff on bumpy roads..I didn't realise they were actually bottoming out until I put pull ties on them..So It is what it is. Personality. I'm ok with it too, until I get excited about re-suspension to suit stronger skills or the fluid comes out of the shocks...

so as to setting it up I would get out some pull ties and go with Sandy and Phydeamutts posts among so much else online to set the springs .

then, the damping adjustment from the OEM GL1100 owners manual (not yours but similar?) is given to be spring at I=1-2, II=2-3, III=3-4 ,IV=3-4, V=3-4 so it is what it is with your bike too.
With OEM susupension, I would just go with the OEM manual. You are fairly heavy? so if you find yourself with the springs on IV without luggage it'd be an indication the suspension is inadequate for you.
 
Last edited:
"You are fairly heavy? so if you find yourself with the springs on IV without luggage it'd be an indication the suspension is inadequate for you."

Hmm, fairly heavy is subjective, and I have sensitive feelings so now I may have to whimper a little...LOL!

In my early days I was taught(told?) that a stiffer spring meant better handling so...I have always set my shocks on the top preload or one below, never set on one or two. I know, I know this is part of the problem, and yet as I aged (gracefully some tell me) I found my weight increasing and thus stood fast with my belief in stiffer spring=better control. I don't bottom the shocks, not even close so maybe I should try the soft setting to see what happens. That was going to be part of the experiment this weekend as a long ride is planned and various adjustments to be made.

Right now they are set at 4 preload and 3 damping. They seem fine to my butt, but adjusting on the road may tell me something I didn't know before.
 
I have read a few comments and talked to local mechanics on the anti-dive and it seems the Suzuki system worked the best (Honda the worst) and if it is working properly it is actually a good system. As to air, I had a 1981 Honda CB650 with air forks and just three pounds of air made all the difference in handling and steering.

Looking forward to seeing the quotes you mention.

Wait, did I open the beer or just hear the sound in my head?
 
A few years ago, I upgraded to Y.S.S. and have been glad I did. My stock shocks are in the garage, waiting to be used in a percussion rack.
Lots safer and comfy two up, compared with stockers.

(My 1000 has no anti dive, but a couple old zx's I had did.)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top