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SH-775 wiring and battery drain

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Now I am chasing a no-charging issue with my bike. I installed a 775 about a year ago and connected into the red wire in the harness instead of going directly to the battery and it was working OK. The stator now tests weak at 70 volts at 2 legs and 40 at the other at 5000 rpm. While troubleshooting I tried disconnecting the the 775 from the charging system while leaving the stator connected. I noticed that zero voltage was present at the regulator while the bike was running. Shouldn't there be some voltage even with a weak stator or does the 775 need to be connected to the harness?
 
".....The stator now tests weak at 70 volts at 2 legs and 40 at the other at 5000 rpm. "

This was open circuit with stator disconected from R/R ? Ok, did you test for voltage from any stator lead to good ground- you should get none.
remember the R/R can't do much if stator has a problem
 
Yes, open circuit stator. I am replacing the stator, obviously, and then I will repeat the test. I am thinking that then I should get a good reading with the regulator connected and nothing else?
 
I don't know if it will affect a series R/R by leaving it's output disconnected from the main harness and the stator producing current. Generally it's not a good Idea to do that with conventional R/R and I'd be hesitant to try it on a 775.

Hook it up as it should be connected then measure the battery voltage is the proper way.
 
1980GS1000E said:
Now I am chasing a no-charging issue with my bike. I installed a 775 about a year ago and connected into the red wire in the harness instead of going directly to the battery and it was working OK. The stator now tests weak at 70 volts at 2 legs and 40 at the other at 5000 rpm. While troubleshooting I tried disconnecting the the 775 from the charging system while leaving the stator connected. I noticed that zero voltage was present at the regulator while the bike was running. Shouldn't there be some voltage even with a weak stator or does the 775 need to be connected to the harness?
Click to expand...

Why do anything else but the standard diagnostic procedures? :confused:

Do a Quick Test and report the results. :o
 
The quick test with everything connected net no voltage increase. I was attempting to determine whether the regulator was bad. The battery was at 11 volts. I bought a new yuasa and am waiting for the stator cover gasket.
 
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1980GS1000E said:
The quick test with everything connected net no voltage increase. I was attempting to determine whether the regulator was bad. The battery was at 11 volts. I bought a new yuasa and am waiting for the stator cover gasket.
Click to expand...

With an expert diagnosis you should be able to figure out with little uncertainty what is wrong when doing the Quick test. So what is wrong? :-k
 
The problem is no charging and a low battery from running it that way. I hook up to a tender when it's parked. I don't know whether the stator is the whole problem or just part of it. Once I replace it I can rule it out.
 
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1980GS1000E said:
The problem is no charging and a low battery from running it that way. I hook up to a tender when it's parked. I don't know whether the stator is the whole problem or just part of it. Once I replace it I can rule it out.
Click to expand...

Actually those are symptoms
 
Looking in my factory Kawasaki KZ750 service manual and the R/R power output wire is connected directly to the battery (via the starter solenoid). No fuse in between. The harness is then fed from the battery, passing through fused feeds. I'm in the process of modding the wiring for a SH-775 and need to decide what's best soon. It's interesting to see so much variation between the ways different companies wired these old bikes.
 
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three bikes: output from r/r s are all direct to battery....via the post on the solenoid. It never occurred to me there is another way....
I am not sure what good a fuse will do except to isolate the charging system easily for testing purposes,but I can't see any harm in it either, apart from another possibility for connection corrosion.
 
I can only hope nobody is convinced to follow what you guys are doing.
 
1980CS1000E I used the original stator when I changed to my Compu-Fire despite warnings that the stator color indicated it would fail. It ran perfectly for one year, then failed. Replaced the stator and everything was fine again. I had initially wired to the stock harness feed. I changed it to direct battery feed through a fuse and charging was definitely better with less dimming of the headlight at idle.
 
tom203 said:
There's lots of nobodys,apparently! Into the harness is the direct route to get juice to whatever needs it-why detour thru battery ?
Click to expand...

Again.......... It is probably over nobodies head, but maybe not everybody

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28

I did a side by side compare of the OEM R/R to battery wiring and a comparison to the "popular" way people hook up new R/R and go "direct to the battery". I'm making some assumptions here as I think people normally only add one additional inline fuse. So with that here is a side by side compare.

Bakalorz has also brought up the issue of the high speed current switching that goes on depending upon whether the R/R is sourcing current or not. What that means is when the R/R is not sourcing current it is identical to the condition that I show with engine off so that point is considered in this analysis. The average currents (as measured) remain unchanged as they take the current switching into account.

Bottom line is to stick to the way Suzuki designed it in the first place. This is something they did get right.


WIRING_COMPARE_1_zps28b00232.jpg


WIRING_COMPARE_2_zps0e7eb003.jpg


WIRING_COMPARE_3_zps591bfacc.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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